docc

One of the nicest things I did for my Sport is "de-stress the exhaust" per Pete Roper's suggestion (heh - Pete makes "suggestions" kind of like lightning gives "a little flash!") - the basic drill is to loosen all the exhaust fasteners and do them all back up a little at a time in round-robin fashion whilst bumping about on the exhaust system to be sure there is no angry stress point. Pete could give you the best description, but there could be an assistive chicken at the fore . . .

Apparently, we should all expect a little wrenching butchery and not be alarmed. Someone should bring a Honda to get us all warmed up . . .

That's a great procedure! Tune early and often!

Can the CO be adjusted without changing the map?

+1 on GPS for instrumentation. Plus it gives you that space for the useless Vagueliar for more important things.

Riding to the local rendezvous (retata?) at Lieper's Fork, TN, it was quite a thrill to pass another V11 oncoming and discover him back at the gathering place. Nice to meet blacklist and see his black 2000 Sport! Talk of the Spine Raid arose with the realization that we are four months out . . . Somehow the whole eastern Mississippi idea didn't get far

Scud, When you say "oxygen settings" do you mean the CO trim (carbon monoxide)? If so, then, by all means (guzzidiag/Axone/VDSTS) check your CO trim - these are notoriously lean from the factory. While there is no special TPS, it is common that its potentiometer develops a little glitch at the most common throttle openings. I only found my fault by connecting it (TPS) to an Ohm meter and very gradually opening and closing it which revealed an abrupt *jump* in resistance. I could not see it watching millivolts. Give your throttle body plates a good clean as well as the idle air bypass screws and their receptacles.

"Darkness on Fire." I like that. Makes me think of the heroine from The Hunger Games. I think a full black and red treatment is probably where this is going cosmetically. I've let go of the white stripe idea. Hmmmmm . . . .satin black stripes? (You know you can't help yourself Scuro Fiamme offers a gentler simplicity. And sneaks the Scura thing in . . .

Be certain it wasn't just a consequence of pulling and re-seating connections . . . otherwise, give it a remap/reflash with guzzidiag/TunerPro?

In the "breakdown of model years" in FAQ, see the fourth bike from the top (Rosso Mandello), but also scroll down to the 2003-2005 Rosso Corsa. The brochure showing the Rosso Corsa is here (scroll to the end of that brochure) and is shown in at least a couple others as a variant of theLeMans. Rosso Mandello is in the this brochure (scroll to the end). From a price standpoint, the RM is likely to be more affordable.

Hey, Ross, also look through the archive of sales brochures posted by chamberlin in FileShare. Some cool stuff there!

Hi, Ross! Welcome to The Forum for V11 Moto Guzzi! Model breakdown is an interesting question since there were quite a few variations on this theme. There is a model year breakdown in Frequently Asked Questions, but I'm gonna move your thread to the "24/7 V11" sub-forum where it will get better viewing and more discussion. Looking forward to hearing more from you! In short, there are (generally) three generations of V11: the early "RedFrame" 1999-2001 which includes the Rosso Mandello (even though its short frame is painted black), the Second Gen of 2002 which introduced the long frame LeMans, and the Third Generation 2003-2004 (maaaybe 2005) which introduced black face ITI gauges and minor changes to the engine. There were myriad other small changes throughout the production run of V11, but we can talk that all up and have some fun with it!

I'm (of course) partial to color matched body work . . . Le Tenebre sul Fuoco

I got my lap-splice method from one of the other forum members years ago who referenced this NASA document (.pdf).

Especially with a naked, this is easy to do. No ball bearings to do up! Certainly, one of the most neglected choke-points on a V11.

Martin, do you mean as you add fluid to the empty reservoir for the air to escape (vent)? If so, simply attach all the lines and fill the reservoir. Much of the air will bubble out as the fluid settles and with a few squeezes of the lever. Then bleed the clutch at the slave as usual. On one occasion, I had the misfortune to break the internal master cylinder spring from the over travel caused by the extreme lever movement in the bleeding operation. Excessive free-play in the lever movement appeared immediately. Resolved with Brembo rebuild kit!

Obviously, heat sinks are an issue for this circuit with its potentially high amperage. Some connections, even soldered, can create a heat sink as can zip-tying the harness hard together or to the frame. Lap solder, tie "softly."

The early, low, factory tire pressures are a formula for weave, squirm, and short tire life. But indeed, there are compromises as I found 37/ 42 on a hard compound tire *less than helpful* in a low-side traction loss. I settled on 35/40 with the early narrow rim and 160 Pirelli Angel GT( for now). Make your tires happy: set your sag/preload/spring selection . . .

Rossi, is your V11 an early white face Veglia, or later black face ITI? (consider adding a year-model to your profile for all to see. ) Either way, the internal gear drive has likely played up and can only be repaired by a full disassembly and the correct spare part(s).

That or simply re-time the cam. I've never done that on a Guzzi, so not sure if it requires a degreeing wheel or what?

I added a chain fall (ratchet strap) to the rear tank mount for extra measure.

Measure, first, how much the threaded portion of the pivots stand proud of the pork chops. They are probably not symmetrical. Otherwise, you'll have to center the rear tire to the front on re-assembly. Plan on servicing the swingarm bearings while it is out.

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I'm not the last word on this, but I learned from this site: Lap solder/heat shrink. And, for sure, service your ignition switch!