docc

+1: 4.5 inch rim: 160 profile tire. The change from the 170 helped tame *some* of the RedFrame squirm for me.

Hmmmm, RedFrame? What is the part number cast into the underside of the lower triple tree?

Sounds like a fresh gasket is gonna be your answer. These painted engines (they're all panted, but the black ones seem to have had more foibles) benefit from some very careful surface prep, Hylomar (as Czakky said), and a methodical star-pattern torque-in-steps. I would Lock-Tite the side stand elements and take time to groom and anchor all the wiring. Probably good to re-tighten every thing you can get to after a few heat cycles or 600 miles. It's the perfect time to inspect the two yellow wires leaving the stator and add a ground from the regulator case to the timing chest; and another ground from the timing chest to the spine frame. TCBTME (There Cannot Be Too Much Earth). If I were in there, I would certainly replace the chain tensioner, but my Sport is rather high miles. So, maybe it's ok that you can push it by hand (?)

That is the correct AGM replacement battery for the original Spark. It is dated August 2006, so I'm not sure I would expect much more life out of it. Having bled your front brake, take the time to work each and every piston in and out of the calipers while cleaning them. This simple maintenance task makes a real difference in braking performance and feel.

A good quality (like WIX 33310) fuel filter for the Isuzu Trooper (all years) fits in the stock bracket on top of the spine (early location when the pump was mounted above the left cylinder). The Isuzu filter in a shim smaller in diameter and less than an inch shorter than the Weber. And cheaper by far! The fuel line from the petcock forward is the most susceptible to heat soak and really benefits from some careful grooming and shielding.

You guys might hate a Sunday morning ride down the beaches and over the Skyway, but it just seems like something a couple boys from the hills ought to do! I suppose that would put us in downtown St. Pete for lunch instead of Frenchy's.

+1 on backing off the steering damper, 170 rear, and especially setting preloads. That last bit may require spring changes correct for your weight to get the right sag. Biasing the sag a little toward the front will plant the turns better. I also found that firming the air pressures slightly has helped (early Sports with Pirelli Dragon Corse were spec'd at 33/37 IIRC, and I keep 35/40 in my Angel GTs. Forks raised 5mm. YMMV!

That's the guy! Too cool you guys are getting together! Likely it will be just us, so let me know what works best for you two and we'll adapt the already slippery plan . . .

Making reservations this weekend and trying to shape up a (less sketchy) plan. Haven't heard back from the new member with the Clearwater location. I'll try and find his member info and give a call. It's pretty easy to map out a loop, but hard for me to judge traffic/time.

". . . wrenching butchery . . . " I'm not sure whether to recommend treatment or have you arrested . I have, honestly, been derelict in renaming the other thread "Eat, Shrimp, and Ride. / Two outta three ain't bad!"

Hey, mike! good to hear form you, but sorry the Ballabio is drippy, Look over the oil cooler lines very carefully on the right side. Cleaning everything, then applying a spray "foot powder" will often isolate the leak. In the event you must tear down the timing chest . . . we'll go from there!

That is a really clean silver Sport. The "collector" in me hopes he gets his asking price. (The only thing I spotted was the odd-colored rear brake carrier.)

Yes, I use that blue Lightweight in the gearbox. Somehow, I like seeing that blue color in the sight glass, and the box shifts well with it with no leaks. Lucas products are also fabulous. My gearbox woes, dripping and leaking and two or three years of misery getting it fixed, led me to abandon the Heavyweight in the bevel box (trasmissione posteriore). I really felt that I repeatedly overfilled the Heavyweight since so much of it clings inside and that contributed to higher pressures and leaks. My mistake as I kept refilling by volume; but even using the level plug could be unreliable when the lubricant is that amazingly thick. That said, I've used various lubricants over the years in this bike. With "normal" gear oils, I adhered to the 6,000 mile/ 10.000km service interval, but with the RedLine I've gone twice that.

gstallons sent me pics of this, I'll see if I can get them posted (never seen clips like this before).

SHeesh - I thought you guys were going to give me time off for good behavior . . . Unplugging the Head Temperature sensor looks like a bogus attempt by the PO to dodge the complete tuning necessary to get these bikes running well. Agreed, look inside the sump, especially at the status of the filter and the condition of the mesh screen.

Dimitris, What are the tire sizes? (I assume they are Pirelli from the factory, but ? ? ? )

The tail lamp's only getting 3-6 volts? I'd expose all the connections between the tail section and the fender assembly; not hard just fiddly. Look for a pinch in loom. All those bullet connectors in that area are like the two nefarious "bullet connectors" for the dicey clutch switch. They all benefit from a clean and crimp.

Silver is the new evil thing.

If there is power at Fuse 6, then it is not likely the ignition switch and perhaps the high voltage has fried a variety of bulb filaments.

The contacts for the bulb deep inside the fixture are notorious for flattening out and loosing contact with the bulb. Reshape them and make sure the bulbs are both good. Otherwise, the wiring can get pinched up under the tail section. It's a bit of a pisser to get to, but worth the time to groom and lightly zip-tie out of harm's way.

I got my Champion red caps from the UK in ten days. Pretty amazing!

Here's an ignition switch thread that has links to others. I agree it's odd. Do you have power at Fuse 6 with the ignition on?

Only the front/Starter Relay requires 5-pins, but they will seat in all the positions and be available to move around if necessary. I remain a devoted OMRON fan. Do the turn indicators work? (I'm thinking like Kiwi_Roy in post#5, test for power at Fuse 6 - if none, inspect the inside of the ignition switch.)

Wow - a 2003 built in February 2002. So much for the theory about what month the factory transitioned model years. Jerry, canister changes typically don't require remapping, but expect some careful tuning.

Fabulous! I love this thread! Wow: Robben Ford "Freedom" - maybe my newest V11 anthem!