docc

I put that Aerostich unit on my Sport as a back-up for burned out bulbs or tail light failure. It is rather dim and highly directional. Even after I shimmed it to angle up toward driver's eyes, it is just not very bright. Its advantage is that it has tail light, brake light and turn signals.

The factory stand captures the two nuts on the very bottom attachment of the porkchops that through-bolts under the back of the gearbox.

Rear wheel removed, Guzzi on stand: many of us do not need to remove the wheel as stated before, "on stand" is enough. Here's a pic of the grease nipple. Holy Cow--that thing is BARELY visible... And we're supposed to get a grease gun fitting on that?? Another task to add to my list for this weekend... I think this is some kind of V11 Sport New Owner Initiation Rite. It sure baffled me at first. Do the long time members sort of enjoy watching all us newbies go through our trials? Agreed. Some nefarious rite of initiation.... Still, this is actually my second Guzzi, so scaring me off isn't working I'm going to give greasing it a go this weekend. I don't exactly have tiny hands or a surgeon's precision, so I'll see how it goes... I hear the faint peel of drums in the hills . . . . . . it always starts good . . . then . . . The Annoying Thing happens!

Looks like : "All of the Above." I wonder how much i can mill off of it and the collar still function?

I also just noticed how our right foot/ankle rides just centimeters from that stressed, spinning mass. In the old muscle cars/hot rods we would call that a "scatter shield." My parts manual calls it the "Front Protection."

I figure it is to contain the shaft in the event the front U-joint frags, *possibly* preventing a rear wheel lock-up. As such, I'm reluctant to delete mine.

I'm absolutely certain I've gotten grease into my front once (or twice) in 93,000 miles. There is still no real discernible reason why some of the V11 (perhaps just the short frames) are so %$#%^^&& difficult. Next time my swingarm is off, I'll be making a generous relief cut in the safety collar.

Ok , I see it now by turning my head sideways and squinting. If you rotate the shaft about another 60˚ clockwise, the cross should open enough to (maybe) see or feel the Zerk in the center of the cross facing back. Best way I've found to angle the shaft down enough is to remove the rear wheel and remove the bevel box carefully separating the shaft.

Zooter, I can't even see a U-joint in your photo. My rear U-joint spit its grease fitting off at some point and I found it simply missing.

If the South'n Spine Raid is any indication, don't count anyone out til the side stands come up; not unusual for riders to watch and wait, then show up at the meet point if they can. Consider posting a departure point and a time, then hang out there for about an hour and see what rumbles in! Otherwise, with these rare bikes: two makes a rallye!

For sure, the later long frames are hard enough to get on the front U-joint. Short frames? Beastly. Still not sure exactly why.

That looks to be taken from behind, looking forward through the swimgarm tunnel above the shaft (maybe with the bevel box and rear wheel removed?)

I used to date that very same girl! Does that make us brothers?

I would venture that a Rosso Mandello would adjust well for more open exhaust with a complete tune-up (including TPS and throttle body balance), and being sure that the CO is proper and not fabulously lean. That said, I would really like to learn this guzzidiag thing.

How did you possibly get that photo? Colonoscopy?

I used the MG final drive oil exclusively before going down the slippery slope of RedLine Shockproof (heheh- "slippery slope" - I cracks me up . . . I did learn somewhere along the way that Motul was the OEM supplier for the MG moly gearoil. I believe it is one and the same.

Is there some reason the mysterious .bin files cannot be stored in this website's "FileShare" for simple access?

I would like to hear that this method has been successful on the short, early RedFrames or the Rosso Mandello, all of which may double your vocabulary trying for the front nipple.

Ah! I misheard that. Nice video. So cool that talented people all over the world keep coming to the Guzzi, always making it even more special!

200 hp, he says? No matter, a big Guzzi sounds so great downshifting through the gears!

Gonna hafta add this important tip to the "Tank Off Maintenance Checklist!"

Play off Kiwi_Roy's post and go with his expert recommendations. I suggested the 14.2 based on the Hawker Odyssey specifications for the PC545 AGM that needs re-charged from below 90% (12.65v). Specs on your Yuasa may vary.

A difference here in the "tail section" (which definitely changed on the later bikes), and the "seat cowl/ pillion cover?" The early "tail sections" are definitely PA6 (polyamide, a kind of "Nylon", by Acerbis - like the tank). The early pillion covers are ABS (also by Acerbis) - did they change? Are the later tail sections actually ABS or still PA6?

guaca-scura-molé!

The slave cylinder is clearly visible, along with the line connection, on the very back of the gearbox in front of the swingarm