docc

Ok , I see it now by turning my head sideways and squinting. If you rotate the shaft about another 60˚ clockwise, the cross should open enough to (maybe) see or feel the Zerk in the center of the cross facing back. Best way I've found to angle the shaft down enough is to remove the rear wheel and remove the bevel box carefully separating the shaft.

Zooter, I can't even see a U-joint in your photo. My rear U-joint spit its grease fitting off at some point and I found it simply missing.

If the South'n Spine Raid is any indication, don't count anyone out til the side stands come up; not unusual for riders to watch and wait, then show up at the meet point if they can. Consider posting a departure point and a time, then hang out there for about an hour and see what rumbles in! Otherwise, with these rare bikes: two makes a rallye!

For sure, the later long frames are hard enough to get on the front U-joint. Short frames? Beastly. Still not sure exactly why.

That looks to be taken from behind, looking forward through the swimgarm tunnel above the shaft (maybe with the bevel box and rear wheel removed?)

I used to date that very same girl! Does that make us brothers?

I would venture that a Rosso Mandello would adjust well for more open exhaust with a complete tune-up (including TPS and throttle body balance), and being sure that the CO is proper and not fabulously lean. That said, I would really like to learn this guzzidiag thing.

How did you possibly get that photo? Colonoscopy?

I used the MG final drive oil exclusively before going down the slippery slope of RedLine Shockproof (heheh- "slippery slope" - I cracks me up . . . I did learn somewhere along the way that Motul was the OEM supplier for the MG moly gearoil. I believe it is one and the same.

Is there some reason the mysterious .bin files cannot be stored in this website's "FileShare" for simple access?

I would like to hear that this method has been successful on the short, early RedFrames or the Rosso Mandello, all of which may double your vocabulary trying for the front nipple.

Ah! I misheard that. Nice video. So cool that talented people all over the world keep coming to the Guzzi, always making it even more special!

200 hp, he says? No matter, a big Guzzi sounds so great downshifting through the gears!

Gonna hafta add this important tip to the "Tank Off Maintenance Checklist!"

Play off Kiwi_Roy's post and go with his expert recommendations. I suggested the 14.2 based on the Hawker Odyssey specifications for the PC545 AGM that needs re-charged from below 90% (12.65v). Specs on your Yuasa may vary.

A difference here in the "tail section" (which definitely changed on the later bikes), and the "seat cowl/ pillion cover?" The early "tail sections" are definitely PA6 (polyamide, a kind of "Nylon", by Acerbis - like the tank). The early pillion covers are ABS (also by Acerbis) - did they change? Are the later tail sections actually ABS or still PA6?

guaca-scura-molé!

The slave cylinder is clearly visible, along with the line connection, on the very back of the gearbox in front of the swingarm

Looks promising. Is the unit backlighted? Looks like a "button" and three indicator lights (what do they do?) BTW, Scud - your voltages are on the marginal side. Look at conditioning your AGM (12.5v is 75%) and make efforts to get your charging voltage above 13.8, ideally 14.2.

I've long thought 5wt (sewing machine oil? ) quite light for our crusty donks. I used some for a while but worried that it found its way out through tight little places that 20 wt would not have. I suppose if your trying to turn the beast over near freezing, your starter motor will thank you for the thin oil.

You should add a little avo decal to the fairing like the flying aces of old. Bad-ass veggie-busting mean-machine!

Be aware that "exceeding SG" can be meant to specify that the oil meets the subsequent SH, SL, or SN specifications. In that case, the SAE label will show the newest rating. Realize that doesn't mean it has more zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) anti-wear agents, but meets the newer specs which actually have lower ZDDP for precisely the reason Zooter says: saving catalytic converters/ reducing emissions. As a pertinent aside, know that keeping your air filter in good fettle is critical to support your finely selected, and carefully measured, motor oil. That the air filter is rather fussy to access on a V11 makes it more likely that it could be neglected, stressing the oil with more particulate matter. More frequent changes (especially in dusty environs) will help, but don't neglect your air filter!

The stuff I'm looking at is fully synthetic, non friction modified, recommended for high performance petrol gas and light diesel, 15w/60. Sounds perfect. I forget the Zn/P ppm for SG - seems like it was well over 2000, but I forget.

Is that their "V-Twin" oil? I've used that quite a lot and still have my big ends. I presume they formulated that for big displacement, air-cooled, flat tappet, push-rod motors. I don't think it's SG rated, but again, not likely to find that now.

Yeah - the reverse megaphones. No mirrors whatsoever . . .