docc

Looks promising. Is the unit backlighted? Looks like a "button" and three indicator lights (what do they do?) BTW, Scud - your voltages are on the marginal side. Look at conditioning your AGM (12.5v is 75%) and make efforts to get your charging voltage above 13.8, ideally 14.2.

I've long thought 5wt (sewing machine oil? ) quite light for our crusty donks. I used some for a while but worried that it found its way out through tight little places that 20 wt would not have. I suppose if your trying to turn the beast over near freezing, your starter motor will thank you for the thin oil.

You should add a little avo decal to the fairing like the flying aces of old. Bad-ass veggie-busting mean-machine!

Be aware that "exceeding SG" can be meant to specify that the oil meets the subsequent SH, SL, or SN specifications. In that case, the SAE label will show the newest rating. Realize that doesn't mean it has more zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) anti-wear agents, but meets the newer specs which actually have lower ZDDP for precisely the reason Zooter says: saving catalytic converters/ reducing emissions. As a pertinent aside, know that keeping your air filter in good fettle is critical to support your finely selected, and carefully measured, motor oil. That the air filter is rather fussy to access on a V11 makes it more likely that it could be neglected, stressing the oil with more particulate matter. More frequent changes (especially in dusty environs) will help, but don't neglect your air filter!

The stuff I'm looking at is fully synthetic, non friction modified, recommended for high performance petrol gas and light diesel, 15w/60. Sounds perfect. I forget the Zn/P ppm for SG - seems like it was well over 2000, but I forget.

Is that their "V-Twin" oil? I've used that quite a lot and still have my big ends. I presume they formulated that for big displacement, air-cooled, flat tappet, push-rod motors. I don't think it's SG rated, but again, not likely to find that now.

Yeah - the reverse megaphones. No mirrors whatsoever . . .

I'd have had to turn you down, in either case. The RedFrame-matched jacket is not so bad to squeeze into now, but those pants . . . I have a wonderful Vanson "drilled" jacket, but it still doesn't flow air and carry armor like the Olympia.

To my limited knowledge, no diesel oils will be friction modified. I believe any 15W-40 or thicker oil will not be friction modified. At least in the States, friction modified oils come with a "star" "Energy Conserving" label. Honestly, I learned to avoid friction modified oil listening to Pete Roper, and I trust his advice explicitly; same goes for what gstallons says. My post on temperature range simply reflects the lightest oil for the early motor is 10W-30 and the chart does not recommend it above 33˚C ambient (not thick enough for me, here). Also, the Tenni, Scura, and Rosso Mandello are the models with the single plate clutch; no piston sprayers until the 2003 model year (along with tight, black engine paint and the tank with internal filter/pump).

I bet they're in great condition, colours would probably go very nicely with a Tenni... Would that much trimmer lad be about 5'10", a lean 170lb? You looking for a date or making a bid on my leathers?

Seems 5W-40 was spec'd for the later V11 (2003-) with oil sprayers under the pistons. No mention of anything less than 10w-30 in the early spec's. Looks like it would be good to 33˚C/91˚F; and 20w-40 or 50 from freezing up. And "SG" - good luck finding that amount of ZDDP. Above all- avoid "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" oils for passenger cars. Your sweet little virgin cylinder walls will thank you!

I had some Z Leathers made to match the Sport some years back (enough that they appear to have been cut for much trimmer lad Terrific stuff, on par with Vanson, but issues of "fit" and ventilation put me onto the Olympia Stealth for the summer temps here. Fantastic!

That, alone, would make it worth pulling the airbox . . .

Ogio and Arai are top shelf. More recently I began using a "modular" Shoei with my long-time Aerostich 1 piece Roadcrafter in grey/black. Pretty certain you can get them all in black . . .

That's pretty high miles - I'll bet it's much less. But also must be sure the speedometer is working. Rare bird! Too cool! Take pics!!

The manuals do show a good step-by-step for these basic procedures. Yet, there may be a tweak or two to make it all spin on greased grooves . . .

How many miles show on the speedometer?

+1 - likely the most rare V11.

"Timeless, raw, strange . . ." That's brilliant!

I've been waiting and watching a couple members who use each. The non-GPS uses a simple switch and completely eliminates the cable (and the problematic bevel drives of the early Veglia). It would appear that this solution would be last clocks I would have to worry about. Pretty thorough thread here in "How to . . ." Converting Speedometer to Electric Drive Also, see: GPS unit on chamberlin's V11

My next (fourth) speedo: SpeedHut

" These aren't the Guzzis you're looking for."

Yikes! What a spark!!

Yeah, I'd get a big ticket riding the Sport listening to that!

What an excellent upgrade for the early bikes! L/Phil - how many miles/km on your Sport?