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That occurring can be a sign of throttle body imbalance (or imperfections in the tuning parameters, i.e. TPS and valve adjustment variances).

Still very interested in @BlackEmperor_Moto's length measurement on his existing inner spacer . . .

That ("web search") works using just the numerals. My first seven results are a water gauging station on the Shenandoah River in Virginia, USA, but #8 is the part at Harper. Of course, the fact that I already searched and found that part at Harper caused the search engine to hand it back to me like it knew what I was looking for already. There is some matter of tautology in this web search business.

113mm is correct. IIRC, there were some very early spacers 110mm. So, all along, I thought my 112mm spacer was "fine." Not so! Take it from a guy that learned this the hard way! [edit: Plus: those SKF totally put me on that rollback 310 miles from home. I'll never run anything but: KOYO 6304 2RS C3 Deep Groove Ball Bearings 20x52x 5mm for that application . . .

That is good advice! I find that some websites use the GU and others do not. I always search a particular source both ways.

Welldone, @audiomick! Here it is at Harper (Missouri, USA), but seriously, call Curtis to verify availability: https://harpermoto.com/products/spacer-inner-a-01634000?_pos=1&_psq=01634000&_ss=e&_v=1.0

I have a used replacement a member here provided. Unfortunately, it came from a parts bike that had corrosion issues and I struggled to get the Zerk to seal. All good, now: 6 years; 28,000 miles/ 45.000 km

Verified Inner Spacer part number: GU 01634000 Mine came from Harpermoto in 2019, $30.70US. For best results "call" Curtis. "On the phone." Once in hand, verify the replacement spacer is the correct 113mm. I have also had the very best results with the KOYO bearings in C3 specification.

What does your existing spacer length measure, @BlackEmperor_Moto ? The upper, 112mm, spacer ate my wheel bearings forever. The lower, 113mm, spacer was the solution.

I don't recognize that connector as original to the V11 stator (?) An electrical failure like that can be hell on downstream components (regulator and relays). Be aware of/ monitor for sequelae . . . [edit: it also occurs to me to check the attachment of the two yellow wires to the stator under the alternator cover for breakage. Probably not "on the road", but when home.]

Well, I don't know if anyone ever discovered a source for a replacement Grimeca clutch slave cylinder for our V11, or a rebuild kit/seals, either . . . I see my clutch failure showed up on Page 3. No, it wasn't the slave cylinder. The "safety washer" had failed on the gearbox input hub and the hub was spinning off, and back onto, the input shaft. At times, this would foul the clutch disengagement, then it would spin in and the problem would disappear. Then return. Short story, here (that contains a link to the "Sticking Clutch" thread):

I said this on another thread, but, still . . . Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.

Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.

Pretty sure this requires no "moderation", just clarification: "Collars and Nipples " can mean more than one thing, but we are talking motorcycle parts, here. No, really!

"Good conversation ." I have grown my concepts from the "thought bubbles." Even discussed this with my wife, an artist of note. I'm betting she comes back to me tomorrow with more "input." Wifeys do that sort of thing, you know . . . I'll have to ask her (former pro ballet dancer, painter, pearl jewelry designer/builder) if she does, actually, consider mySport "a work of art" . . .

All this thought bubbling got my thoughts bubbling, perhaps fueled by a proper dose of Scotch Ale . . . I would regard mySport as "art" when on the plinth with the footlights and gallery lighting, but its status changes as soon as the tools come out or it is rolled off the plinth, er, lift. Then, it instantly exists to hide a hole.

I installed mine in 2017 and they shared the odometer procedure with my. I posted it a few pages back. Pretty sure even the older units' odometer can be set to a specified starting point. [edit: Here is the procedure to set the odometer to your desired value, on Page 11 of this thread/ May 19, 2017:

Della Concordia: Here is a post in Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts, originally sourced by @Pressureangle: And this sharing thread in Classifieds started by @activpop:

Lots of us wash in IPA. Some prefer Scotch Ale. We might be talking about different things . . .

Thanks, everyone, for the input. When I first considered this, I thought, "Man if these are different I will have solved the Farking Front Uni Mystery ! I will be crowned Wizard DeLuxe ! " Alas, no crown . . .

My collar has the holes, just not visible in the view. Over the years, I have tried every conceivable way to get at the front U-joint. I did, finally, succeed using the 180 degree swivel tip that @80CX100 posted and approaching from in front of the swingarm. I find it helpful to loosen the tip slightly so it snaps on (and off) the Zerk more easily. FWIW, I would avoid undoing the driveshaft pinch bolts as they can easily cross-thread going back in. My driveshaft failure experience is something I do not want to repeat . . .

Ha, well, I struck out. It occurred to me that if the later front collars were a few mm shorter, or larger diameter, that would account for the enigmatic difference in access. Perhaps there is no difference at all, but we have just repeated it so much that it seems real . . .