docc

I would say, for sure, starting will discharge the battery briefly, but the regulator should bring it back up if it's throwing 14.2 volts. But how long is your daily ride, ten or fifteen minutes? And stop and go traffic where the voltage at idle may be discharging ( 12.4 volts for an AGM is quite flat (65%). I would do a couple things: first, measure voltages 1) key off, 2) after 3 minutes of high beam, 3) during cranking, 4) at idle, and 5) at various rpm (2000-4500) Second, discharge the battery a few minutes with the lights the "push" the charging with a higher amperage (6-10amps) controlling the voltage manually in the specified range (14.2-14.7, not to exceed 15.0v). Follow this phase with a "float charge for 6-8 hours at 13.5-13.8v (NOT below 13.2v!) Monitor the voltage over a period of hours to days and recharge every time it drops to ~85% (12.65v). After a few cycles, your AGM should stabilize and hold above 90% for days to weeks.

That is an excellent question! I don't see specific voltage parameters for their product - so you'll have to monitor voltages/ amperage to be confident it is compatible with Odyssey's recommendations. I see they claim a "desulfation program", but recall Hubert (luhbo) had concerns about these protocols for the AGM. (I don't mean to speak for Hubert - I have learned much from his posts about these batteries). At over 100 US$, it seems better to get the Odyssey charger unless you already have one of these. (In that case, it's all about monitoring voltages).

I like the way the Scorpion's tune starts with, what sounds like, a simulation of hard motor sounds. I'll have to ponder, now, what music fits my Sport. Scud, thanks so much for sharing this extraordinary experience! And the equally extraordinary outcome!

This just keeps getting better! And with a *glimpse* of the cat behind it all!

Somewhere, I thought I learned that "cigarette lighter" sockets are not standardized - plugs and sockets do vary.

Something like this fused SAE connector? I use mine for charging, voltage monitoring, and (like LowRyter) - the Slime air compressor if needed. The trouble might arise running heated clothing if the regulator can't see the draw.

If I understand Kiwi_Roy's advice, any draw directly off the battery is not read as voltage drop by the regulator and will not be compensated for in the charging circuit. I wonder if simply tapping reference voltage elsewhere would be better?

You're fine with the 10-40 for a top-up. I ran some diesel rated 5-40 Mobil1 for quite some time and felt the light base oil might have contributed to some leaking. I say "might have." Then, for me, back to 20-50 motorcycle oil. (Ambient temps do get quite high here).

Always loved GTX for my old pushrod V8. Diesel rated oils are good for the Zn/P unless you can get proper motorcycle SG.

That is a beautiful reply. Lifting my glass to Pete and rejoicing in his veranda across all this space!

Those are some breath-taking photos of the V11! Reminds of the some the images Hubert (luhbo) has posted. What an amazing ride!

Quite interesting - the colonial origin of hopping as a shipping preservative. Makes me (somewhat colonially) quite happy to have what is being called "craft" brewing here, again, in the States. I'll pass on the hops unless I've simply got to sail half-way round the world to chat about it, and have to bring my own beer with me . . .

Heh-heh-heh . . .

It's entirely possible I'm not hearing well today. Last night's drummer was pretty intense.

Re-posts here of LowRyter's oil leak with replies. I figure we can sort this out . . .

I don't know that considering alternative filters is about price as much as availability. UFI are a hassle for me to get hold of.

"Vintage" is a beautiful word. Much more interesting and desirable than simply "di vecchio"

We've probably got three topics going in this thread, but regarding dipstick calibration: FAQ by Ryland3210 re: oil level (EDIT 02012015) - I moved the various posts regarding LowRyter's Oil Leak that we can better discuss that specifically while attempting to leave the dipstick reading/ oil level remarks in this thread as that may be a significant issue leading up to the dreaded knocking sound. Splitting posts is a bit tricky, but I've done my best with it and we can hand this thread back to thelonewonderer to keep us in the know about his Sport.

There has been a lot of discussion about oil and filters, as there should be. One member (Ryland3210) did some fairly extensive investigation of the gaskets and gasket compression over the concern that filters can back off (see FAQ Oil Filter Installation). Some aspersions have been cast upon the factory choice of UFI. Personally, I've used WIX 51215 for a very long time, tightening 1 and 1/8 turns after gasket contact. I wonder how increased flow could be achieved without decreased filtration?

True! I love the ambiance of the shop. Looking forward to glimpse of the guy behind all this!

Molto, molto scuro! You dress up as Darth Vader for riding gear?

I could write you a note there, buddy . . .

That is freakin' sweet! I'm liking the idea of the carbon fiber chin pad for my (shiny) Sport . . .

Is it running down the right side of the engine -gearbox junction?

There are several similar bonded pieces on the V11 primarily as shock mounts for the coils (3 each side) and the ECU (4). The coil mounts are especially failure prone. I found that cleaning the surfaces with a suitable high flash point solvent and joining the rubber and steel with a toluene based contact adhesive like Goof-Off or Shoe-Goo (same product, I believe) has been effective. I have not tried this with the sidestand bumper, but it appears to be the same construction.