docc

Much discussion has been lent to concerns over the nylon tank material, susceptibility to fuel formulation, especially regarding ethanol, shape deformation and problems with paint "bubbling" (coming loose). Let's regroup in this thread and focus on solutions.

This is really a major topic. Especially now that these bikes are "soon-to-be-vintage" and the problems of fuel formulations and the nylon tanks are well established. So, we've make a new thread in Technical Topics to revisit this known issue with this type fuel tank.

Waiting for some special decals for the side panels?

Moved to "How to . . ."

Aww, shucks . . . you're too kind . . . I haven't forgot about the suggestion we have a thread for en route troubleshooting. I've learned so, so much from the people on this forum, and the ten Spine Raids, that I hope to keep it archived for easy access. These are not terribly complicated or unreliable bikes, but they do not suffer neglect well.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Bultaco, Bud Ekins, Baja 1972 . . . No, wait . . . Daytona!

Alright, almost done, then: Only the front/first/Starter relay is 5-pin. All the rest will work on 4-pins. But IMHO there is no reason to chance that a 4-pin might get rotated into the first position and complicate a road side circumstance. The 5-pin will seat in every position, simply not making contact with the fifth (center) pin. I cannot count the spare relays I've carried that are running around in other folks' V11s . . . A far as choosing to use OMRON and carrying spares - why skimp? They're not very expensive, really, and positions #1 and #2 likely the single most failure prone issue in the V11. For the 5 question quiz then: 1. Yes, but G8HE (High Current) 2. No, no need to replace the sockets, but Kiwi_Roy reminds us that the connections must be clean and tight. 3. Some places I ride, the vultures are the least of my worries . . . honestly, there are members here who running their original Siemans with no trouble. Yet, many of us routinely use the highest quality fuels, lubricants, and components available regardless of cost. I extend this philosophy to the relays. 4. With the bases clean and tight, and quality relays in place, you're *probably* good to go. Spares are cheap and easy to store. 5. Yes, by all means! For the record, I started the South'n Spine Raid back in 2004 because I'd only ever seen one other V11 and my dealer (125 miles away) had closed up shop like Pressed Rat and Warthog. The Spine Raid has been a crucible of V11 experience. Re: "BTW" - Yes, you can take the relays out with the ignition off without disconnecting the battery. Pull them straight up and out! Don't wiggle or waller as this can spread the connections in the bases (the bases themselves are mounted loosely, but the connections to the relays' spades should be tight, or follow the link above to Kiwi_Roy's Relay Base method). I hope teacher doesn't keep me after school . . .

Soooo , I hope I haven't dug too many deep holes here . . . First, let me say PyroDan ( http://www.dpguzzi.com/ ) is a true gentleman and has provided excellent service to the Guzzi community for many years. A real unsung hero! I've gotten relays from Dan, both Bosch and GEI. The last relays I recall him offering (at a great price and convenience) were the Chinese GEI. Some years back a member here (Ryland3210) disassembled both the GEI and the OMRON and did an extensive report on their internal construction. I thought his work very competent and have used OMRON since (7 years/43,000 miles/69.000 km). I do carry extras, but have never seen an OMRON failure. The labels on my tail cowl: S(tart), L(ights), N(eutral), ECU, FI (fuel injection. Adding these labels and the complete fuse description next to the components will get you ( or your buddies) off the side of road much quicker than googling the owner's manual. And, yeah, I believe all the relays are in the same order for the entire V11 series. I'll post this and look back at Scud's post above to see how much more homework I've got. EDIT/ 07 February 2017: *Best* relay: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

I really like my roll-in Baxley Trailer Sport Chock for parking the Sport- keeps it upright and makes oil check easy (yah, with the stick screwed all the way in), and keeps the weight off the sidestand for much of the bike's life.

Only the front ("starter") relay is 5-pin. But, 5-pins will fit everywhere with no modifications. It's my thinking that if a 4-pin gets put forward on a switch-around, the troubles are compounded. Get rid of all your 4-pins. Install the very best relays available. Carry a full set of extras, and extras for your buddies. Make sure your relay contacts are clean and tight. I used to label my relays, but when they get switched around, replaced, or shared - the labels are compromised. So, Iabel the positions on the tail section next to the relays. Know your relays! Give them some love!

Wheel mounted radials are just amazing! Fueling? Exhaust? Really? How? Amazing!

Coming out of the weep hole on the bell housing? Or dripping down fro the top of the case?

Yeah, well . . . the V11 relays are critical components. Ditch all the 4 pins, get the 5 pin OMRONS. Clean your ignition switch, don't let your battery terminals get loose, or your main ground fail. Look at that 30 amp regulator fuse. Did I say OMRON relays?

. . . or there is a leak (or two)?

Oh, my! What an outstanding result!

Only had to trailer home once in 92,757 miles when I let one of the yellow wires break coming from the stator under the alternator cover. The dying Hawker got me about halfway home . . .

Meaning for the bevel/final drive? Or as an alternate for the transmission? Good question, for sure. The gearbox/6speed/in American: "transmission" (that has the gear sets in it and that side plate shifting mechanism with the pi$$y springs). The Italian manuals call it the "cambio." The bevel box/ rear drive/ American slang: "the chunk", in Italian - "trasmissione posteriore." In the manuals, see that "trasmissione secondaria" (final drive") includes the bevel box and the cardan shaft assembly. So, this thread is about the "gearbox" not the final drive, so no moly specification. Yet, the RedLine ShockProof (they make other gear oil products that are not specified "ShockProof") are said to contain a "synthetic moly" good for both the gearbox and especially, the bevel box. 'Heavy in the bevel" seems the correct spec from Redline (again, cautions against overfilling! Internal pressures at operating temperatures are likely higher than factory.) I've never used RLSP heavy in my gearbox, only the lightweight. Lots of other oils, too, but +1 on the better shifting. Numerous members have reported this consistently over the years. Your gearbox will likely love you back . . . whether the Lightweight (blue) or Heavy (pink). I know an extraordinary V11 rider with high sport mileage that uses Superlight in both . . .

+1 on the RedLine Shockproof - but avoid overfilling as it is VERY clingy! I am also an RLSP "Lightweight" advocate for the gearbox (blue milkshake).

AKA "work hardening?" Worries me that would produce brittleness, fatigue, and failure.

FWIW, the nylon siphon hose was so gummy and funky, I could not put it back aboard. I suppose I'll add a length of fuel line instead. Nylon + fuel = ugh

Hmmmm, bending springs. This is surely a black art.

The published compression ratio of the early V11 is 9.3:1. Were the later motors different?

I had always imagined that if I had my motor down, I would want to have it balanced, "blueprinted," and polished rods simply because the original Telaio Rosso V7 was so done and it would make for interesting shop talk. I suspect it would impart a 'sweetness' to the running as well. (Seems to me the flywheel would have to be in on the balancing act as well.)

Is that not Imme that used the exhaust pipe as swingarm?