docc

Let's consider those posts more of a contribution than an "answer." Looking forward to more contributions !

- thanks for looking. like. share . . . No, really, the better kit you and I travel with, the quicker we get off the side of road!

You guys don't think all this kit might be affecting my fuel economy or tire wear? Forgot to mention the lights. Princeton Tec tactical LED headband with retractable red lens (3 AAA batteries), and an Infinity TaskLight that will light its single white LED on one burned out AA. I've used dead batteries out of other devices and still had light (zipped to an ALICE clip):

Left (the "downside", as the bike's always leaned over toward you on the side of the road. I learned to be mindful of this as your tools could slide out onto the fog stripe when you zip the case open . . .like mine might have ) Simple faceshield service: 1) washcloth wetted with water, a little liquid soap, and a douse of white vinegar closed up in a zip-lock and rolled around a clean, dry washcloth; Fog Proof cloth for faceshield/glasses from Scotts or Smith - the goggle people; Tool roll with combination wrenches 8mm and 10-14. locking needle nose (AKA temporary foot lever), 6" Channel locks, wire cutters, more zip-ties, more nitrile gloves (for you!), another shop-rag-in-a-bag, strips of leather, a length of hack saw blade (combined with locking pliers makes a saw!), electrical test light, gaffer's (electrical) tape, and a crosshead screwdriver ground for bite ("Phillip's head" screwdrivers are designed to cam out of the screw head commonly tearing the screw head especially on removal. Which is exactly what we're up to "Fixin' it on the Road!") Oh, and a corkscrew. She'll thank you for this!

Right (offside) pannier lined with a heavy trash bag: "Slime" compressor, Progressive tapered tire plugs (amazing! - a quantum leap beyond the "beef jerky" rope plugs), jumper cables, siphon hose, volt-ohm meter, vacuum caps with zipper pull parts, butane lighter, spare custom molded ear plugs, Leatherman tool, safety wire, metric hex drive set, pens (including a red Sharpie to scribe times and vital signs on the skin), five feet of 12 gauge electrical wire. *Disclaimer* - Please don't do anything that makes me write on you with my Sharpie

Hey, before we put the seat back on, consider making some labels for your relays, and what the fuses actually do. The fuse chart is just ink printed, laminated in packing tape and taped upside down so its visible leaning over the mount-side of the bike.

I take that as being granted a wide berth for behavior by the OP! Much of this I learned from being in league with capable riders, well prepared. So, from here, I've got to get out the Tekno panniers and see what we find . . . (I'm still trying figure how to get all this stuffed back in those little places under the seat.

The early tail cowl has a fabric liner that anchors under a trim ring. If you have one, make sure its still sealed. In the tail cowl: Relays, little zip-ties, spark plugs (usually last year take-offs, currently all new), a plug resistor (or, ideally, a couple spare caps, but I just gave mine away), self-adhering "Extreme Tape," 1157 bulb only (here in the eastern States a headlight bulb or turn signal bulb is never far away 24/7, but I won't ride with out a brake light), relays, tire gauge in bubble wrap, ten spare ATC fuses (even a dinky 30 amp for your bike) and a 30 amp MAXI (with LED fail warning, for my bike), and . . . let's see, did I mention the relays? I keep a full complement of five OMRON in a foam bag (for my bike), and , (right now) a couple Bosch and 'big' Siemans (for your bike ). Always carry extra relays for you and your buddy, all five blade. Get rid of the four pins -

Ok, I apologize in advance. First that this is going to take me several posts (no hijack intentions!), and second, that all the photos are hosted courtesy of imgzeit . . . Under the seat are two storage ares: In the States, the "tool tray" was delivered with two carbon canisters attached to 20 feet (yes, six meters, 5 pounds(7kg!) of half inch fuel line. I, er, relocated that ; / Now the tool tray holds: 3-4 heavy duty, long zip-ties (steel teeth!), nitrile gloves, 2 shop rags, vehicle documents and coin-of-the-realm zip-locked, (3) sealed Callison wiring diagrams with a doccChart, and a Fresnel lens (some of you know why ______Oh, and the factory tool roll (keep oiled). That's the tool tray:

I have wondered about the change in oil capacity. If the sump is lowered (for the plate), how much volume must be added for the pick-up to realize a "full" level?

After my years here, I think I have used up my allotment for local hosting. And that's after deleting all the extraneous photos of various libations considered elemental to the V11 experience . . .

That is correct on the bulb. I tried running "hotter" ones like Sylvania Silver Star, but while I like the brightness, they just do not last. By all means, please send by a paella and a nice Spanish lady. I hear they all have long legs.

That is correct. Only the earliest Sports/ pre-Rosso Mandello. And yes, one can jack up his suspension settings enough to eliminate all forgiving margins. This can be followed by the sound of bouncing off the air dam of a BMW sedan. Experience is often the simple accumulation of bad judgement.

seems prices are consistently on the rise.

A "leisure battery" - never heard that one before. Learn something here every day!

Is it really so wrong to psychologically trick ourselves into being happier with our V11? Seriously, go to the link Zooter posted and work through that tune up procedure. This explains the white wheel. Do it every 4,000 miles - you and the bike will become one!

I would still like to see the actual Technical Bulletin that acknowledges the change in triple clamps during early RedFrame production. Apparently, the very early RedFrames (1999-very early 2000 production) had the steepest of rake and worst complaints about stability. My March 2000 production Sport has the (reportedly) revised/relaxed triple clamps. The 2002-2004 ("long") frame negates this issue entirely. Early tire fitment, recommended tire pressures, and steering damper settings were all suspect, as well as the "softness" of the springs and rear weight bias. Fine tuning those parameters for your weight and riding style will assuredly give you a fabulous ride!

So, #1 - my pawl spring did not give any warning whatsoever. #2 - carrying what you need might differ from carrying what you need when riding with six or eight other V11! Keep this thread going. I've got to pull my kit out and upload some photos to some unreliable hosting site.

Now your gonna make me get out my Spine Raid kit and post it . . .

As a benchmark, my (new) PC545 was delivered at 75% (12.5 volts). The complicated charge I detailed above held three weeks at about 60˚F/16˚C before falling back to ~85% (12.65 volts). After 36 hours on 13.25 volt/ 1.5 amp charging (slightly low voltage/amperage for Odyssey recommendations), it is perfectly 12.84 volts after 3 days. I'm just trying to learn here, and share. But #1) don't let your PC545 fall below ~85% (12.65v) before bringing it back up. #2) don't leave your PC545 on a trickle charger all the time - take it off, discharge it (lights on 30 seconds to three minutes), and recharge it (14.2- 14.7 volts, then ~13.5 overnight). If your PC545 is going flat (like 12.5 volts), use the higher amperage charging with the voltage limits Odyssey specifies (maximum 15 volts, "no amperage limit"). "Maintenance free?" - - - - I don't think so, really.

Oh! I've got a buddy with one of those jackets - he loves it! Self contained using a power tool battery (not from the bike's electrics). Brilliant! And: easy to carry an extra battery (rechargable).

I might be in over my head already. I simply replaced the 30 amp ATC fuse in the factory fuse block with the MAXI fuse in an external holder. I tried an external ATC holder but the fuse still melted or burned off its blades (without "blowing"). The contact area of the factory fuse holders is really small (much smaller than the fuse blades), especially for 30 amps. I believe that factory wiring does go straight (through the fuse) from the positive battery terminal to the regulator.

Never ride a V11 anywhere without Josh.

Oh, wait . . . choose your fork oil not on SAE oil weight, but CentiStokes@(temperature). Good stuff here to keep you (more) busy, by PeterVerdone.

I found I could run my Gerbings jacket (77 watts) if I keep the rpm up and shut it off in stop-and-go traffic. Using, also, the gloves (22 watts) was not successful (99 watts total). Once you have the garment (I would get a vest if I did it again), plug it in and check your voltages at the battery at various rpm. If I understand Kiwi_Roy's advice, the regulator will not see the voltage drop in a direct accessory circuit and compensate for the charging.