docc

No way that would go on my early Sport. I wonder if Guzzi simply shortened the protective collar at some point. Mine looks to be about 65 mm long from the gearbox back. At the protective guard's most lateral side outboard, it looks about 13 mm from the swingarm.

I've never thought of trying to get at it through that gap from in front of the pork chop and swing arm. Scud's outside the box.

30 to 87 simply carries current through to the Run Switch without energizing the coil, yes? I try to spray some electronics cleaner up into the sidestand switch and coat it over with Petroleum jelly, but I never feel like it really does anything. AFAIR, no one has ever dissected the sidestand switch to consider its innards and remediation options . . .

All good medicine, again, Kiwi_Roy! Just a comment to try and clarify the two circuits that power the "Run Switch" - The power to run while underway comes through the Sidestand Switch (which seems pretty vulnerable down there on the leading edge in the spray), OR Relay #3 (center relay) that I prefer to call the "Neutral Relay" since it is energized by the Neutral Switch for power to run while the stand is down and the gearbox is in neutral. So, have you bypassed the Sidestand switch (connected the wires together)and simply removed Relay#3 ?

That'll work! I like using zinc plated, flat braided copper with soldered connections (all cozy in heat shrink) to ward off breaks from vibration, especially in a wire that short between engine and frame. Be sure to clean the paint off under the bolt head, maybe use a "star" washer for bite, and paste it all over with petroleum jelly. That last part may be optional in Southern California . . .)

Zooter is The Search Monster

The main earth leaves the battery and follows the tube of the seat subframe down to attach to the top right of the gearbox inboard of the seat latch release. That and the terminal stack directly on the battery are the primary grounds (earths). Adding one from the regulator case to the timing chest is a must. I ran mine to the spine frame and one from there to the engine. Others are more familiar with your regulator, but I recall one poster eliminated his 30 amp fuse and soldered the wires together. I ended up with a MAXI fuse in that location after repeated failures (charred, burned blades and melting, but not blown) of the standard ATC fuse, both in the factory fuse holder and in an external holder.

Thanks, Bjorn! I'll move this over to the "How To . . ." subforum as the comments settle down. When doing this for the first time, I had to remove the internal cartridge from the bottom of the fork leg and discovered a set screw inserted from the inboard side of the lower fork housing. It does not appear in any of the diagrams we looked at in those days for the early Marzocchi of 1999-2002.

I'm no expert on this, but I can see them (of course, they're my pics). Anyone have a solution? Browser settings? OS compatibility?

This is a god question for the Admins in "Motha of All V11 Forums . . . " I'll cross post it there so we can all revisit the photo protocol that works best for the form.

Pathognomonic poetry! "Honestly, the "darking" of the underseat area does feel a little silly. But I nearly stabbed myself on the tool tray bolt (which was WAY to long) so it had to be replaced, then all the through-bolts from the parts I was actually trying to darken (passenger pegs, fender, etc.), and I had the battery tray off to get the CF fender installed correctly and what do you know... down the slippery slope, facilitated by the fact that I have easy access to a wall full of inexpensive black bolts. It's sort of a game to see how many matching black fasteners they will have." I think I speak for all of us here, on the same ward, that we are happy to share treatment recommendations and secret remedies. Cure? You've got to be kidding!

I didn't want to name any names . . .

While I can see the pics above by JBBenson, I can't find any images on all the links on the old 2004 threads. Seems they went cold some time ago.

Capping the vacuum taps is fine. Although, I would carry a couple extras on board just in case one goes missing. If the cylinders are out of synch, the caps can be damaged from a pop back through the intake. Once you've got it tuned well, there's no issue. Those are the vacuum ports for your balancing manometer. I plugged my taps with solid fasteners for a few years, but had them in and out enough to damage the aluminum threads. Ugh - Heli-Coil and back to the rubber caps!

There is enough of the broken wires to solder them back on? If so then repair and cover the repair with epoxy to stop another break (which is common there).

I'm likely not the expert on that, but we'll get some help here, momentarily. For certain, check that the pinch bolts both fore and aft are not loose allowing slop at the collars which should pinch down tight to the output/input shafts. If the drive shaft has ever been taken off, it's a bugger to get the collar lined up perfectly that the pinch bolts don't crossthread. With the wheel off, it's easy to remove the entire rear drive by separating the shaft. ( mind the alignment mark or make one!) The U-joints should have no play in any direction and rotate in both directions without any grinding or popping. Good luck getting grease into both the back and front. Don't put more than a film of grease on the splines or it won't want to go back together (forms a pneumatic trap).

I suppose that's a ten year list. If you just fettle a little something extra every time the tank's off (and each time the wheels are off), they just keep getting better and better! It at least gives you a punch-list of things to put your eyes on, or your fingers on, while it's there easy to see.

Makes ya wanna play some blues there with her all happy in the garage!

Oh, man - you darkened fasteners under the seat and on the underside of the rear fender? What you have is much, much worse than previously thought . . .

Not likely anything significant (like the actual map) was changed with the pods. Doing a complete "tune-up" is your best medicine. You will have to locate the air temperature sensor to reattach to the airbox. Most likely, it is just zip tied to the frame somewhere, although it might have been put in a canister of some type. While you're at it, have a go at some of this: Tank Off Maintenance Checklist

I think it would be good to post some photos of the broken shock eyes. I would like to link them to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist. Right now, it only includes this phrase: >Inspect the shock eye connection to the swingarm. The white spring/blue collar Sachs-Boge are prone to crack.

I'm (reasonably) sure it's not damaged. But once it's up to full charge, watch it to drop back to ~85% (12.65v) and immediately discharge, then charge it. Repeat until it holds. My PC545 is 10 days out and holding 12.78v.

These big donks pump a lot of oil into vapor, more in the rain and more with mineral oil. Synth oils have minimal evaporation.

Ha - yeah, I thought my ECU is right-side-up and everyone else's is inverted! Czakky: 12.08 v is an AGM at 43%. Use Odyssey's guidelines for time and specified voltages to bring the battery up to full charge. Then, monitor as the voltage drops back to ~85% (12.65 v) and recharge. Repeat until it holds. Odyssey has special advice for V-twin motorcycle applications (low amp charging/single phase stator) that is likely for the H-D, but may also apply to us. This includes leaving the lights on, after the motor is off, for 30 seconds before beginning the charging and using a "float charger" to compensate for parasitic loads while in storage. They also warn against exceeding 15 volts charging.

+1 on GuzziMoto. Often the seat will press down on the battery itself. Some have reattached the battery basket under the subframe for more clearance.