docc

Link doesn't bring up the fuel door?

"binary azeotrope." I have got to find a way to work that into a conversion in the next 24 hours.

I absolutely love the Google Translate pronunciation by the out-of-breath Swedish woman. Is she putting us on or do suspension companies really make Swedish women so out-of-breath?

These are an extraordinary addition to the V11. They do an amazing job of keeping the shock, shock eyes, and electrics clean and secure. Thank, again, Edge for the extra effort! (I hope someone picks these up!!)

I think I have an old BLACK Bitubo steering damper here if you want to swap for that BRIGHT SILVER thing hanging under your triples . . .

That is gorgeous and compelling. Also colorful and hauntingly dark at the same time.

Recently, I put my fourth battery in the Sport at 'almost' 93,000 miles/ 150.000 km. In all fairness, I would probably be on my second, but I use the bikes' to step down batteries into my lawn and garden tractors as they require. Tractor battery plays up? Bike gets a new juicer. The battery that just played up in "swampee" the Cub Cadet was nine years old and came out of the Sport 4 1/2 years ago. The "new" PC545 came directly from Odyssey with a May 2014 manufacturing date (seven months old) and came at 75% charge (~12.5 vDC). Odyssey recommends charging when voltage is below ~85% (12.65v). My selection of 10amp, 2 amp, and 1.5 amp chargers are not ideally matched to the AGM requirements. The "correct" charger appears to cost about $150US + taxes and shipping. I'll have to get by with what I have, for now. First, I brought the charge up using 10 amps to no more than 15v (less than a minute) and followed with a 2 amp charge for 4 hours . Two days later, the battery had fallen to ~85% (12.65v). Four hours at 2amps/13.2v restored the charge. Two days later: back down to ~85% . . . repeat. (Note that Odyssey recommends 2amp maintenance at 13.5-13.8 volts which will NOT charge the battery, only maintain it. Charging occurs at 14.2-14.7v and "at least" 6 amps. Basically, after initially charging the battery aggressively (from 75%), and immediately recharging it from ~85% twice, it has held the charge for a week (well, 6 1/2 days) and happily gives the magic number: So, a couple things are to be known: 1) watch your charge voltages very carefully and follow Odyssey's amp/volt recommendations, 2) don't just put a new battery in without "conditioning" it if it is below 12.65v.

I thought all the Rosso Mandello were 2001 and all had the chin pad, external fuel pump, "short frame."

The fairing looks good! Whoever did it looks to be experienced - it's easy to distort the patterns on the odd contours. Will you apply a clear coat to harden the surface?

And certainly the only "2005" RM in existence . . .

Ken, where did your CO end up set?

Looking fantastic! (BTW, if your rear fluid is that low the pads are probably very thin.)

MAXI fuse posts

I just retired a PC545 dated 12/2005. It was in the Sport 5 years, then in "swampee," the Cub Cadet garden tractor for 4 more (9 years of service: not bad!). Two other common sticking points in the V11 charging system: 1) inspect the 30 amp regulator fuse for melting or burned/charred blades/connectors, 2) remove the alternator cover, lie under the front of the motor and carefully inspect the two yellow wires leaving the stator as well as the flinky bullet connectors near or behind the oil cooler.

Where is that, exactly?

The Workshop Manual instructs to test the TPS potentiometer with "a tester" for the 150mV setting. The idle is then set at degrees opening with the computer interface (guzzidiag etc.). I presume the "tester" is simply a voltmeter. I do not see that the fully closed position is to be read by the ECU/interface, but only in mV.

There is hunting. And then there is hunting for the extremely rare and elusive -like the unicorn. But in this case, we do know there [were] some 600 unicorns out there. Somewhere . . .

I don't care who ya are - that's funny.

Fabulous! (Where are these breweries?)

After a couple attempts at bogus cables, we're hoping to get this sorted soon. Having been back and forth through this thread several times, I am still a little uneasy about the drivers for Mac OS X Mavericks (?) (I attempted a driver download for an ELM 327 interface and it locked my Mac - **uncomfortable!** . . . I thought the worst thing could be my Sport would run funky, but nooooo . . .)

I'm not sure the lower makes sense to me . . . now, a CF alternator cover, well that would be something . . .

Back in the day someone suggested the latch spring and the spring on the fast idle cable got mixed up and both work better reversed . . .

By all means, let's find a way to increase the visibility of G-B tuning parts for the V!!