docc

We all know these Guzzi donks are bulletproof. Just not when they come from chain guns! Great photos! Thanks!!

Thanks, motoguzznix! I'll get a look those points and add that to the Tank Off Maintenance Check List.

I have bought some cables with some trepidation. You guys have made me do this. Save me, Hubert! My bike runs fine!

How exciting! You have definitely come to the right community. Get ready to know your Moto Guzzi! If you can get a digital electrical meter, these fellows will help you through the electrical problems. You can do it! The shock is not original to the bike. There may be forum members who would part with their original Sachs-Boge , but the yellow spring might mean it is an Öhlins. Does it have markings? Why do you say it is "shot?"

From the parts catalog "V11 Sport/Mandello 1999-2001: Cmplete headlight - - AUS-J-MAL-NZ-SGP UK - - GU03740545 Headlight - - - - - GU03740540 These, for sure, are the metal ones, the AUS/UK version having a different lens pattern as chamberlin has said. It is curios that the later Nakeds have a unique number (GU03740430) even though they are fork mounted. Are the later Nakeds not metal buckets?

1999-2001 Sports (and probably Rosso Mandello) have Bosch headlamps in metal buckets.

It comes to mind that, here in the States, the (fabulous) Sierra was sold as the Merkur XR4Ti whose engine made a lot of vibration and makes me think that aspect is much like the Guzzi, as well, when it comes to points of possible failure in the electrical system. Connections that were tight might jiggle loose . . .

This is a much more accurate statement, Hubert Very interesting how closely this approach jibes with the electrical troubleshooting printed in How to Prepare the Sierra for Motorsport, compiled by Graham Robson for Ford, c.1988: "The most common electrical faults in SIERRAs are caused by wiring faults i.e. breakage of wires or connectors, electrical shorting, poor or intermittent connections, or contamination by water or mud, rather than by component failure." I have have found this so often true of the Guzzi, as well.

That's only cc x 14 - so, I would say "just unlucky." My Sport is sitting on cc x 87 . . .

Breakfast at 10. Leave out about 11. Kindred spirits!

Clicking while activating the starter is a sign of low voltage. It is not, then, the bullet connectors for the clutch safety switch. Just to be absolutely sure, tight battery terminals are critical, as is the connection of the ground to the gearbox. You are certain that ground connection to the gearbox case is well fettled?

I would think them very uncommon on an 1100 Sport because of the faring mounted mirrors. I just looked through the first hundred or so google images and only saw one 1100 Sport with bar end mirrors and those were Napoleans.

Make certain your main battery ground to the gearbox is clean and solid!

+1 on the OMRON relays. And +1 on pyrodan - he's an excellent guy and his service to the Guzzi community ought to earn him a medal. Or a grappa. I remember when he moved on from the Bosch to the GEI. Maybe, at some point, he'll go to the OMRON. I don't think he ever supplied TYCOs. Those, and the Siemans, are the bottom of the heap.

And the V11?

The specialty electronics store I bought the meter did not have a stabilized power supply and figured sending it to a repair facility would cost about what I paid for the meter (50 USD). It's stated accuracy for DC voltage is +/- 0.8% which is 0.11 volts at 14.2 vDC. So, assuming my meter has retained its stated accuracy, my charging voltage could be as low as 14.09. I think it is notable, though, that the regulator is set to 14.2 volts and the meter reads the same (at or above 2000 rpm).

+1. Not only the battery connections themselves but especially the main ground to the gearbox. Be sure it is clean of grime AND paint - use a "star" washer under the connector and seal over with petroleum jelly. Check that the 30 amp main fuse is not melted or the blades damaged.

Definitely an early warning light panel. The two center lights are (top to bottom): oil pressure and battery (charging). Those are worth investigating their absence. They do not light when the ignition is first turned on? (The "M" in the serial number designates it was built in Mandello as all the V11). Assessing how your clutch rattles most (engaged or disengaged) may give a clue to whether it is standard twin plate or Rosso Mandello single plate.

That is one tricked out V7! I pm'd you about those rear sets!

I would be remiss to retorque the heads now, after so many miles, unless I had removed them for the valves and guides. Hubert, Hylomar where? (Not on the head gasket!?)

And a proper Moggie, there, with Brooklands screens!

So, I see the #16 O-rings (one per head) and the #21 O-rings (4 per head). The #16 was the one I was thinking could give a drizzle like this (?) I suppose I'll do them all in my upcoming 100,000 mile refresh. You know, the one I think I ought to do regardless of whether it really needs it. . . . polish and balance the rods, balance the pistons , yadda-yadda . . . warum, warum, warum???

This is true, of course, yet the DE I installed is claimed to set for 14.2 volts. I will have my Triplett meter checked (Good advice, as always! ). I replaced it's internal 9v, but the voltage reading did not change. (My very cheap meter that I carry with me in the Tekno pannier reads 0.12 volts less - maybe it is the more accurate . . . )

"Sie mit es durcheinander, warum?" I was thinking of doing the heads, rear engine leak, clutch and flywheel all at 100,000 miles. If I can tolerate the oil leak that long. The clutch sounds like a Steampunk Drum Band.

That's the method I went with! Now to see how long it stays clean . . . I thought I remembered an O-ring or something for oil to rise to the rocker box. (Trying to delay that Big Teardown until 160.000 km . . .)