docc

. . . torque the heads . . . ?

mznyc, thanks for the, er, encouragement . . . with the rear wheel off for a tire change, I found the right bearing a bit rough. After cleaning it out entirely, it was definitely 'notchy' and I replaced it. Looks like it was original to the bike (14 years/92,600 miles). As it turns out, the left side rear wheel bearing has been replaced a third time: first at ~14,000 miles, second after another ~35,000, and now after ~40,000. I would guess that the left side rear bearing is somehow under greater strain but I don't know why . . . maybe just more exposure to the spray and weather? Now, I'm trying to follow my own advice . . . while the rear wheel is off . . .

Right, headlamps on a separate circuit through a 10 amp circuit breaker with separate OMRON relays, hi and low, and grounded back to the frame. It charges at >14V as low as 2000 rpm. I still don't trust the system to run a 77 watt electric jacket under 4000 rpm . . .

I forget what this could mean:

I like this plan! My Sport needs another relay on top the four I've added. (I just do it to make Hubert nervous ) If, per chance, the red-black reference wire in the loom shows no significant voltage drop then this more direct reference system would unnecessary, correct? (My voltage drop is 0.09 V)

Right! So, besides grounding the RR case to the engine etc, etc, what about this idea of changing the source of the reference voltage?

I can say that the OEM set-up on the early V11 defeats the light when the 30 amp fuse opens; doesn't come on with the ignition switch and doesn't come on when the bike sputters to a stop. Later V11 (~2003-2004) apparently have no battery warning light. What's up with that? Did the regulator and wire routing change, too? (Maybe this part of the discussion belongs on the OEM Regulator Rectifier thread, I dunno . . .)

Those numbers are very, very close to the production numbers published in Ian Falloon's "The Moto Guzzi Story" by model, but with much more detail by year. How come we've never been able to get this for the V11 series?

It's right on the website in the description. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edlguz-voltrectoe.htm I don't see the V11 series listed for that application. This is the specific unit on my Sport EDL-450 from EME. I do see the Odyssey disclaimer there as well. And no detailed applications chart at all. Technical specifications do claim 14.2 Volt setting which is perfect for the AGM. I'll try to ignore their also listing the lithium "iron" as not recommended, but what is it about the AGM that would not be compatible with these regulators?

According to a period Cycle World (magazine) sidebar, there has been a "long running Italian hillclimb between Ballabio and Resinelli . . ." for which the bike is named. Ballabio is a place a few miles up into the "hills" behind Mandello del Lario. Bellagio is nearby, too - another Guzzi model name.

Haha, yeah: I resemble this remark: "Figured I could get a few rides in before looking at shaft/bearings,et all. Hope we all learn a thing or two from my good luck."

In the States, we have long considered 100,000 miles as being "high mileage." Much of this stems from the days when a car that had 100,000 miles was pretty much clapped-out needing every system completely rebuilt from drive-line to brakes to suspension. Cars seem to last a good bit longer than that now, but we still regard that nice, round 100k as a bench mark. But I wonder, what nice round number rings true for "high usage" on the metric scale?

I thought (hoped) I would try to bleed it again and that's when i found the bad wheel bearing. The wobbly wheel was pushing the pistons back into the caliper. Thinking back I can recall a tapping sensation at times through the left footpeg. I passed it off. Should have inspected closely instead!

Yeah, it's a sticker on the invoice. A separate sticker "strongly advises" the separate ground. Where did you see the disclaimer about the Odyssey (AGM) application?

Heh, yeah - I was just getting ready to do all that stuff. Decided to run that rear tire a few more hundred miles. One more reason to change tires early and often!

Yeah, Roy: Even with a ground-to-engine, ground engine-to-frame, and ground engine(gearbox)-to-battery . . . extra benefit to add another ground all the way from regulator case-to-battery terminal? Also, what about this business of removing the 30a fuse while charging? That could protect the Ducati-Energia from "trouble?"

It would be easy to declare the regulator/rectifier on the V11 series prone to troubles. No doubt, you should go out to the garage right now and add a substantial ground strap from the regulator case to the timing chest of the engine. While you're at it, add a good ground strap from the same spot to the frame, and make absolutely certain your battery-to-gearbox ground is clean and solid. Be sure your 30 amp regulator fuse has good contact and is not melted or burned. At 92,600 miles (149.000 km), I am on my third Ducati Energia regulator. The original lasted almost 5 years/37,200 miles replaced by a dealer supplied part for 245 USD in 2005. That unit lasted just over 5 years/34,500 miles and was replaced by a unit from EuroMotoElectrics in Colorado, USA, for 140 USD in 2010. It is still in service after over 4 years/30,000 miles. Their written recommendations included adding a ground "direct to battery and/or engine strongly recommended." I did this at that time and have much better charging voltage. Sometime in the next 6-12 months, I'll find out if that alone extends the life of the regulator. But, I also found this warning, which I never noticed before: BEWARE: DO NOT charge or jump start without disconnecting Voltage Regulator/Rectifier from the battery. First, I don't consider having to replace this part a couple times in 14 years as excessive. Second, I hope I don't have to replace it again anytime soon. But mainly, should I take the 30 amp regulator fuse out while doing routine charging? It would be easy and could be something I've always done wrong.

It made a huge difference on my Sport, but I'm not so sure it changed the vibrations. More the idle stability and the pinging/popping.

Possibly the darkness of your Scura has obscured it . . . It should be here:

It is etched on a vertical boss on the left front side of the engine block above the area of the side stand attachment.

Did you ride it after?

Original size "ATC" fuse but in an external holder?

You're not one of those people that cut the tags off their pillows?

I'd say, yes, you can unbolt the header pipes. The head studs could be quite corroded, so stand by with something like PB Blaster and a a torch. Clean the studs up really well and apply some anti-seize paste for next time. Otherwise, I don't think RTV will hold up to exhaust temps. Clamp them up dry and well fitted.

My replacement swingarm came from Germany. No stickers!