docc

Good news is someone thought it was scientifically important to recreate the whisky. It's quite nice. (a friend gave me a bottle and I did NOT bury it in the ice for posterity!)

If you take the sump off, the filter is right there like every other Guzzi. No special tool required!

Hmmm, oil filter still in the sump like an 1100 Sport, but "can be" accessed through a 4 inch cover on the underside of the sump by unscrewing it with a 27mm hex drive. Conveniently, the rear axle nut works for this.

The story of Shackelton's Antarctic Expedition Whisky discovery and recreation is worth a read. (and, perhaps, a sampling if you can find it!) All the better to peruse the story over a dram!

I forget now . . . did you start with a complete bike or you're building a V11 from parts?

It won't be cable operated remote preload adjustment it will be hydraulic.Ciao Still learning something here every day. I suppose I must have known that at one time and it slipped with the rest of my mind. Plus, I removed the pannier to have a look and found the adjuster had completely backed off. Turned it back in and time to go for a ride! Thanks, Phil! (Corrected my post).

I am not sure what the differences are between the Öhlins MG 127 and the Öhlins shock fitted to the later V11 Guzzis except that the 127 has remote preload adjustment.

Unequivocal evidence that, from time to time, we might all need a dose a NAD Developer . . .

Yes, the early '99-'01RedFrame (and 2001 Rosso Mandello with black frame) pull the forks up closer to the tank. Also, there is some evidence that very early Sports had even steeper fork rake which was relieved with a change to the triple clamps suggesting that earliest Sports would be most likely to rub the tank with the fork leg.

You will be very pleased with shock upgrade. Getting the spring right is key, but all the shock people know that and will have a process for you. Unless Öhlins has made a new run for the V11, the last of them has long since left the shelves . . .

Here, I was thinking cost was one of the downsides?

It would be quite surprising that your V11 has a White Power. Possibly a gold colored Sachs-Boge with blue anodized rings and white spring?

Unfortunately there have been a handful of reports here on failed Odyssey off the shelf. Cliff, what is the static voltage on the Odyssey?

Thinking about it rationally (now that I'm not marooned), it seems we could have put the cables on from the car for the charging session and with the ignition and Run Switch off, the ECU would never know what we were up to. It was probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery ground. Yet, is there some electro-ugliness that might have wreaked some sort of havoc on the regulator or stator?

Still riding on high hopes that the simple discovery is the Real Solution! Once we gave the battery a little charge we did push it off. I was actually surprised it went as far as it did on the brief charge. I'm thinking just jumping it wouldn't have given the battery anything unless I had found/replaced the bad fuse at the time.

Once home and seeing no charge light and no charge, I thought for sure I was in for a regulator. While my 30 amp MAXI fuse "looked" ok when I "inspected" it on the roadside, it was open without looking burned. I found the positive lead to my terminal block had loosened up. After tightening the connection and replacing the fuse, she was, once again, Running GREAT! I'm thinking some arcing on the loose connection blew the fuse over the last thousand miles since I had that all apart. I feel stupid I missed the blown fuse on the roadside, so I got one of those "Smart Fuses" that light an LED when they blow. With the battery so flat, I don't think it would have jumped off anyway, but I'd like to learn what the big deal is jumping off motorcycles - why is it so taboo? Or is that just Bad Forum Science? (left:SmartFuse/right:bad fuse)

Having ignored the obvious signs of a charging failure (no "battery" light key on/pre-start), the Sport left me stranded on the byway. The battery tested flat (10.5 volts) and would only click the solenoid briefly. My son was kind enough to bring some cables and I disconnected the negative lead and let his 325i juice up the dead Hawker for a few minutes bringing it to 11.9 which got me home-(ish). So, I got some cables to carry on the bike, but I'm vague on the warnings about jump starting the V11. What's the real deal?

Yesterday, humming along blissfully on the long way home from work, she began to sputter and pop. Hmmm, "dysignitionism" I mused with a chuckle. Then realizing the tach was showing 2,000 rpm at about 70 mph I found a shady place to park up before she sputtered to nothing. 10.5 at the battery. After a jumper rescue and barely home I found no charging, a loose positive battery connection from the regulator and open 30 amp fuse. Ah - that's why the battery idiot light did not show at start-up! Idiot light indeed. After tightening the connection and replacing the fuse, I realized how much crisper and sharper it is running. It wasn't running "bad" before the fuse opened, but just back to "running GREAT!" The experience makes me think that clean, tight connections in a well functioning charging system is one of the major keys to a great running V11.

Denis, I've had a couple single malts that aren't "scotch." The Japanese Yamazaki is very nice, smooth without any bite; reminds me of the Highland Park that classy gentlemen prefer . From Oregon, USA, McCarthy's has a bit more of the smokiness I prefer (Even though they threw an "e" into the whisky ) The Islays draw me in otherwise - Laphroaig or Lagavulin. I wonder if the Welsh single malt is in the States. How would you describe its character?

Interesting testimony to the clever Scots that American bourbon must be aged in new oak that is often (so I've "heard") owned by the scotch distillers and leased to the American distillers. The thrifty Scots then get the barrels at a reduced cost with free extra flavors!

Steve, it sounds like maybe your right throttle wasn't completely closed for the 150 mV baseline. (It doesn't matter if the left on completely closes). With the linkage off, release the high idle cam and cable, then back out the right idle stop screw until the mV reading stops changing. At this point, press the throttle further closed - if the reading goes down further, clean the throat, plate, and shafts. Once you are convinced the plate closes fully, set the 150 mV baseline. Also, be sure the throttle bodies are in close balance before setting the final idle. You can fine tune the balance later.

Scroll down this thread in FAQ: TPS Setup and Throttle Balancing It shows several options on measuring the TPS and discusses adjusting it.

Hubert (luhbo) seems to know these tachs pretty well. Perhaps he'll chime in (?) Kiwi_Roy, too . . .