docc

Maybe some good swishing with something more like electrical or electronics cleaner? Worth a try before popping for the switch. The number I listed is for the early 1999-2001 Sport, so be sure to find the correct one for your application (I believe they are the same through the end of the series.)

By clean, do you mean you worked the switch actuator in and out in a solvent bath or spray? Some have reported that would restore the connection inside. Others have said that, once clean, a change of gearoil kept the switch functioning (RedLine as I recall). Also, you're certain the connector makes a clean solid connection with the switch? Otherwise, it sounds like you're in for a new switch. (GU19207220)

Kevin Cameron, in a recent edition of Cycle World, clearly differentiated between "detonation" and "pre-ignition." I always thought they were the same, but apparently not.

Wait . . . a gorgeous, racy Italian lady you're not sure you can trust?

Welcome Denis! You've come to the right place to work through the tuning and possible issues with the Ballabio. Enjoy the ride!

I was somehow certain the eccentric alters the travel in one direction or the other (upshift versus downshift) which is, ideally, set to be equal.

150 mV with the throttle plate fully closed (no linkage, no right adjustment screw, no high idle cam interference), then bring the linkage into play and the idle screw(s) to where the TPS is 524 mV

Diesel Yamaha?

Is your pawl arm return spring not actually broken then?

I've never seen the Classic Nuovo LeMans given the naked treatment - looks like she lost 80 pounds!

Nuthin' like a nekkid V11! Early Sports do have their fuel pump mounted low on the left side of the frame. And, yes, pull it forward as much as possible, shortening the line from the petcock which should be shielded and groomed up away from the cylinder finning. Some have even shielded the pump itself.

Down to the "fine tuning" now! Being certain of fresh plugs and spot on valve adjustment, set your throttle body balance at some rpm (maybe 2500) and lock the white knob with a nut (per Dave Richardson/ Guzziology), then at idle balance the final balance with the air bleeds. As the air bleeds change the idle, and the idle changes the TPS setting, and the idle screw starts this all over again, the settings get closer and closer (better and better) at each session.

When setting your base value TPS, you did not mention releasing the high idle cam. With the throttle rod disconnected, the plate closure can still be affected by the high idle cam as well as still hitting the right idle screw, even if that was already backed out enough as not to affect the idle itself.

475 mV seems pretty low for the TPS idle setting. Have you established the 150 mV baseline with the throttle plate completely closed? If so, your best idle is more likely found about 525 and air screws at one turn (+/-). The air screws can get really sooted up, so you might want to pull them out and clean them along with the holes they fit into. Otherwise, we might, once again, launch into discussing the head temperature sensor holder . . .

Win-Win! You know, people look at the bike and say, "That must get good gas mileage." And I think of how many more miles it takes me to get home . . . I'm thinking it's not saving me anything on fuel. Prozac maybe, but not fuel . . .

And perhaps all the seals?

mike, how many miles on this Sport?

I can't tell that the pistons look much different. Is the scoring on the cylinder walls much different on the affected side?

Wow: 6 gauge - that's kind of a small welding cable, yeah!

Even new ones, apparently!

That would only be a function of your TPS baseline versus idle, no?

There is nothing like having a known good V11 to pull your bike up next to for comparison. Or, as that is known in these parts: V11LeMans.com!

Short answer: yes. Long answer: There is this entry and link in the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist in FAQ: ">Observe the Timing Sensor on the left side of the timing chest for leakage. A simple #112 O-ring replacement is often all that is necessary. That said, mine leaked through the wire lead and had to be sealed with an epoxy. Do not increase the gasket thickness as this will change the timing. Sometimes, the fasteners just need to be snugged up."

I thought I could find that specification on rear suspension travel, but I don't see it in the sales brochure, Owner's Manual, or Workshop Manual. The front is 120mm. I have an internet reference that says 128mm, but I just don't see it anywhere in the official literature. The Workshop manual lists the free length of the spring at 165mm to be preloaded from 8mm -14mm. That doesn't seem like much of a range. Before I switched to the Öhlins, I set my Sachs-Boge spring to 18mm preload which is over-compressed and beyond the recommendation. You are more likely better with the correct spring for your needs!

Odd, the PC545 is a direct replacement for the original Spark . . .