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The V11 Quota does not appear to have the "wide sump" of the V11 Sport/LeMans. Hard to say if a "wide sump" would clear the Quota's lower frame rails and close-fitting exhaust . . .

While the lines of that exhaust are not disturbing (as some can be), and no "bandages" (relief!), something about the uninterrupted radius and clean sweep of the original V7 Sport is comforting to me . . . a gentle, liquid flowing . . . Comparing that Exif custom to anything on today's showrooms seems a bit an "apples and eggcrates" exercise.

Linking this to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. Something I need to see to, myself . . .

Addendum, regarding servicing the crankcase ventilation: (Thanks @worthyperformance! )

No sleep to loose. That is not a V11 LeMans/Sport motor/drivetrain. Let's say it's a V11 "EV" or "Cali" square fin with a 5speeder gearbox and not our reardrive. So, someone made a slumpy croozer-goozzee into a café ride. (A VERY nice one, I would say!) No Spine Frames were harmed in this . . .

Some 8% of the male population have "red-green shift color blindness." Legnano Green would not look to "green" to those folks at all. V11 Sport and LeMans variants are generally becoming worth more and more than us long-timers would think. Especially for those "unmolested" examples. As for me, I would want a little something extra for the molestation. That has been a ton of time and effort invested in intentional groping and fondling . . .

Thinking more about a hot engine restart, especially in high ambient temperatures, I am reminded of the fact that the fuel/ignition mapping runs a rich condition for >4000 revolutions (it is an exact number that @Lucky Phil shared with us) on EVERY start-up regardless of actual engine/ambient temperatures. Under certain conditions (hot motor + hot air) this could contribute to very poor running, especially at idle, during that enrichening period.

And, here, I have been anticipating the colorized P.Roper tutorial of: "Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow" . . .

There is nowhere, anywhere, that has a Classified section like ours . . .

True about the High Idle Lever on the V11 not being a "choke." It only raises the idle speed based on how it is adjusted (cable and high idle cam engagement). The V11 mapping enriches the mixture every start-up for 4,000+ revolutions, (regardless of engine or ambient temperature: every start-up). These V11 do have 'S' and 'D' flywheel marks to index TDC for the 'left/S' and 'right/D' cylinders. Gotta love @Chuck's Eye-talian looking from the right side inspection hole: D = Dis side / S =S'not dis side *Translation: [D= This side/ S= Not this side ]

I dated a girl in college that had higher calorific value ingedients (which made such a noticeable difference), but explosivity became a factor. I'm sure this adds no value to our discussion. Jus' sayin' . . .

Yeah, yeah . . . that's what I meant to say . . .

I am no engineer, but that bracket looks like a formula for transmitting, maybe even amplifying, vibration . . . Having long added a timepiece to my bike's gauge cluster, I never could go for the Formation option. Partly because of the size (larger than I prefer), but mostly because of mounting .

And easy to overtighten, leading to gasket failure and thread destruction. Don't ask me how I know . . .

My goodness, yes! Have you verified your tachometer error with an ECU interface like GuzziDiag? The tach may also be reading optimistically. Higher idle speeds have several important advantages for our V11, including lubrication, cooling, and reduced wear on the clutch mechanism.

I have had the same experience, yet choose to run premium. Since Shell introduced its V-Power Nitro+, I try to run that exclusively. My Sport certainly approves! Travel sometimes demands alternatives, yet mySport tolerates this as long as I have not neglected any aspect of her state of tune.

I've heard of the tight 2/4 settings, but have long thought 6/8 best? Especially in these ambient hot temps . . .

How many miles, you suppose? I have never found a dealer who's tech would take the time to be absolutely meticulous with the various tune-up parameters. Of course, YMMV . . . Otherwise, make a careful inspection of the intakes and vacuum taps to be certain something didn't come off (like a vacuum cap).

How long since your last "Decent Tune-up?"

I just made a couple edits to my post. Having measured the thickness of the nut on mine, I found it 5mm.

@LowRyter, perhaps you just have the wrong (more coarse/ 1.25) pitch nut. FWIW, the nut on mine is 5mm thick. The nut for the sidestand switch is on page 39 of the 1999-2001 Parts catalog: Foot Rests - Lateral stand : #38 GU92602508 Nut M8x1 So, try an 8mm nut with a 1.0 pitch. Otherwise, inspect the threads on the switch body as they may have gotten damaged. I reckon something like blue thread locker will work between the nut and the plastic switch body? Or does that require a specialized thread lock product?

And on the anchor's plinth: ETERNAL VIGILANCE IS THE PRICE OF LIBERTY

Phrygian Modal scale?

Another really great example of the music this thread is about. This one from @ScuRoo: