docc

I was thinking maybe a "crow's foot?"

Check out relocating your battery basket below the front mounts bolting them upward. This lowers the battery basket enough to clear the early seats better. Otherwise, a little judicious use of the Dremel tool on the underside of the seat pan could be needed.

. . . check that CO/idle.

That's it.

Did you change the bars or just the mirrors? What is that exhaust (Arrow 3>1)?

rossi, Wish I could have come along - nothing like Guzzis making music together! :race: pilgrim, if you can get the bike to someone with a computer interface, be sure they check/set your CO setting (and compare your rpm to the tachometer indication for future reference).

Whoops . . . missed that post about the pushrod.

I bet it's light and quick handling!

Is that a Sport-i Motard?

Sounds like she could be running better for sure. That's 35 miles per Imperial gallon? I thinking that's like 42 mpg-US and far better than I get. Best to start with a complete tune-up. This FAQ thread will take you through the process: TPS Set-up and Throttle Balance Tuning Then, we'll go from there!

SO, what was the final diagnosis on the clutch? Was it the master cyinder?

Hmmm . . . steering quicker onto a smaller contact patch . . .

Haha, yeah - look at that: Luigi must've got that week off!

At least some ape-hangers and forward controls for the GB-LeMans . . .

That is exactly how that flow chart evolved - to narrow down the likely culprits quickly. It is the next best thing to waking up in the morning, looking in the mirror, and finding out you are Kiwi_Roy. Luck, then! And after : beer! :bier:

Most likely culprits are the bullet connectors, as noted (turn the bars all the way through their arc back and forth while holding down the starter button) and, secondly, the front two relays. You can swap them and try again, or swap them for the two of the others (the middle one has the least stress), or swap in your "spare relays" assuming all of these have 5 pins to function in the first (starter) position.

Ah - I see what you mean there. I'm surprised they don't show up easily . . . yet an image search only shows the grooved bases with the mounting tab. Luigi must have spent all week cutting those of!

Bosch Micro-ISO relay socket without tab p/n 3-334-485-046 (click pic to link) Wouldn't you still need the correct female connectors to insert?

So, Bjorn, how did the repair come out? I see a good review of this product for plastic repair: Plast-aid I suppose I better get a supply and start working on my crumbly front fender . . .

Yeah, I always wanted a vintage bike. Next year the first bike i bought new comes up for antique plates. I do think it's excellent that Guzzi is building this V7 series. Enthusiasts have been telling them to for years and years. It looks like it is successful for them!

Sorry, but you might have meant the CB1100 which I think is a stunning piece of kit. I've just never been one for four cylinders. I keep forgetting "vintage" might not mean the 50s. I got a "Vintage Motorcycle" calendar for 2014 and March is a 2000 silver V11 Sport!

Haha! Good news! Drop down from your username at the top right. Open your profile. Click on "Edit my Profile" and scroll down to "Profile Information." In the "Member Title" : be who you want to be! "Guidare bene!" (Easier to fix than a flickering oil light!)

It is nice to see that goodbye is thrown the same in different languages . . .

That is brilliant, Daren! I've got this thread linked to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. Well done!

As Hubert says, "All at once!" Better to drain the sump into a CLEAN container, then remove the manhole cover to assess the filter and its gasket. True also what Hubert says about getting the filter tightened correctly through the access hole. This requires a good fitting filter wrench and 1 and 1/8 turns beyond the gasket contact. The warning light must stop. Did you check that the idle is high enough?