docc

And another link for the 'How To . . ." section!

Replacing a leaking output shaft seal Another great pictorial post by Bjorn!

Luscious!

Is there somewhere on the web to hear your music? maybe pick up the bass and jam along . . .

Ha! Love the injection molded mini-band!

Nice, Dave! More pics?

So, I stand corrected (again) Just to say "V11" does not necessarily mean V11LeMans or V11Sport. The California and EV series motors are V11 as well. I suppose it only means 1064 cc? What else makes the motor V11?

The IT guys here can say for sure, but I think anyone using VDSTS Pro interface can do this. Also have them check your actual rpm (read by the ECU from the timing sensor) relative to your tachometer indication. Be certain you are tuning your TPS and idle setting to an actual 1050 +/- rpm. My tach had me trying to tune the idle at 750 and the engine was not happy about it.

The high temps here in the southern US are not likely part of the original design protocol for the V11 mapping. I can sure feel *it* when the temperature, air density, and barometric pressure match perfectly that day in Mandello when they were happiest with the test motor! Good advice from Hubert, as always. Yet, he and I will likely disagree on modifying the right head temperature sensor holder. I found significant hot weather 90˚F/32˚C - 95˚F/35˚C) improvements after lowering the mass of the holder. Better to start with the CO, maybe a high quality fuel system cleaner (like Techron), "comfortably loose" valves, air bypass screws cleaned and set a full turn out. Simple stuff that I found helps my hot weather running. (EDIT: yes, a MG shop can very easily set your CO. Mine was delivered at minus 27. HUGE difference after it was set to 0)

Changing your TPS will not change the timing, only the place on the fueling map. You could try raising the baseline within the range (I recall its +/- 30 mV). That said, I tried that on my Sport to quell the pinging and found it still ran best at the 165 mV baseline. Monkeying with the sensor gap would be messy. Probably better to use Guzzidiag for the tuning. Are you certain the CO is either zeroed in the ECU? No doubt that kind of carbon in the cylinder could definitely cause pre-ignition issues.

Sounds like you're in good hands!

Ken, Be sure to have your dealer address the other leak sources while the bike's apart: the cam plug and the two bolts. Some would say it's also a good time for a new gearbox input shaft seal and a new seal for the clutch actuation shaft. Thanks for posting your results. This remains on my "To Do" list . . .

+1 PC545

Now ya got me feelin' sorry for ya.

It is common that they are not adjusted well on the right throttle body. Both a cable and a cam. Easy though - we can do this!

Left Coast Floridians . . .

So . . . I am certainly swayed by the video (without understanding a word of the spoken language). There are some really nice bits on this bike - the swingarm for sure, and I'm not sure the reaction rod actually clears the big rear tire at all (mm, maybe?) Really, it is only the tail section that seems awkward, but provides a great place to video the exhaust while the bike is in action! It is possible the liqui moly calendar in the background has affected my judgement . . .

So, Lawson, what was the solution?

I am relieved to know that there are only 40 things that contribute to oil consumption.

Haha - there was some talk of your Guzzi work at our local riders' spot over coffee and breakfast: "What do you think Bjorn will take all to pieces next?" "Maybe he and his brother will make a new frame!" "He could turn it into a Ghezzi-Brian. Those Dutch do things like that." Glad to hear you are riding now!!

Maybe the SeaFoam dislodged a goof-load of crap and fresh oil and plugs will self correct it over the next 4,000 miles? (wishful thinking, I know . . .) FWIW, I would not let my sump get down a full quart before topping up!

ugh. So, worn valve guides? Does your valve adjustment need changing frequently or more than 0.001?