docc

A quart in 2300 probably isn't too much of a concern depending on how much high rpm running and how many heat cycles (short rides less than 10 miles). Risky to ask, but what weight/type oil and change intervals? How old are those plugs (the one on the right looks justifiably funky!)?

Looks like a weapon! Should be a kicking good time!

moved here for better responses. No one has ever had any success getting their gearbox to shift better with those adjustments. Only if it upshifts more easily than downshift (or other way round) should the eccentric need to be centered. There are some simple things to try first: Change gearoil, bleed the clutch fluid and be sure there is full travel in the clutch lever. Clean and lubricate the foot shift lever and be sure it is not striking the frame sideplate on the downshift.

My 2000 Sport did this from new. Only after a fork rebuild did I find the right cartridge was not seated fully into the bottom of the fork. It fits down into a hex recess and I suppose mine did not get dropped in before it was tightened on assembly causing the damper to move about a quarter inch before engaging causing a *clack* over every bump. For years I thought it was the bounce in the steering damper. Once seated, it was pretty amazing to have a noise like that go away after it had always been there. I also found the suspension less unsettled setting up for corners and coming out since that 1/4" of play was gone from the rebound side. This is actually pretty easy to check: With the bike on a shop stand and the engine supported with a jack, back the damping adjusters all the way out noting their positions, release the fork caps being mindful of the spring tension. Grasp each damper and force it up and down: there should be notable damping without any undamped play.

If the PO was using mineral oil instead of synthetic, it is much more prone to heat vaporization. Also, a lighter oil would promote this in the event it was not on a steady diet of 20W-50. Rding in the rain and high rpm riding also increase the vapor fraction. That said, these engines do use their crankcase ventilation system! Oil in the airbox is common and largely normal. Maybe you would consider a catch can that you could monitor the vent for a while without risking a mess or a wet tire.

I would think the most likely issue is that a PO let the oil level get low enough and accelerated hard enough to starve the oil pick-up.

What does it look like in the battery tray? Much smaller? Still use the same tie down strap?

What kind of money are we talking for the Li ion?

I think about riding the V11 down to the Florida Left Coast. Drove the ///M roadster there a couple years ago. Last trip : flew into TPA (the looong way!), rented a Dodge Challenger R/T (red, of course!). Makes Tellico Plains and the Cherohala feel like heaven! Glad you got in a good ride, czakky! Now you know why the South'n Spine Raid keeps going back there! :race:

The bracket (#14) GU01733830 holds to the starter motor by two large "hose" clamps (#15) GU12548401.

Remove the fairing form the frame mount and go with the "traditional" fork mounts?

"Venus and Mars are alright tonight!"

Hmmm . . . always precisely at 6,000 rpm? What about a bad timing sensor?

I recall there were cam and valve changes between the 1100 Sports and the V11 Sport. I "think" the heads are the same as well as the FI. The Cali V11s were rated 74 hp at 1000 lower rpm than the Sports (6800 vs 7800).

melted or burnt 30 amp fuse? Badly corroded ignition wire leaving the coils? Check the resistance across the TPS gradually opening and closing looking for a sudden *jump* in resistance.

And bigger valves. Different head. Lighter flywheel if you count that as part of the "engine." Perhaps different throttle bodies and mapping? 91 "brake" horsepower versus, what, about 70 for the cruiser motors?

arek, good luck finding the motor. A V11 motor in a Cali-Sone should be a hot set-up! For best response, go to your profile and list a location, at least by country, or even more specific if it's a big country . . .

Learn something here every day!

Especially after seeing that crankshaft twisted in half on the November 30, 2013, post!

Keep an eye to the sky, there, buddy! Severe weather coming at you from the west-southwest likely for sometime Tuesday into Wednesday . . .

It is a standard 3w bulb you can match up at the auto parts store. Be sure the socket is keeping a good ground - they are known to wiggle loose. EDIT: this one is stamped: "OSRAM SK 12V 3W 128"

Here's picture of my CRG mounted to the factory bar weight inserts that I had machined for the mirror clamp. In addition, I pushed some 1/4 inch lead balls up into the clip-on. There turn to a corroded mess over time, so I wouldn't do that again. My local machine shop charged my $85 US to turn down the weights to may dimensioned drawings.

I found thumper's "dime fix" post in this thread. Those shaft ends you see wet are pressed into the side plat and do not rotate. There should be no reason you could not run a bead of, say, JB Weld epoxy around the clean joint and stop and seeping there without removing the side plate. If you elect to remove the sideplate, make sure the gearbox is in neutral when you take the plate off. You'll see index marks on the the toothed selector plates to confirm the neutral position of the shift mechanism.

That is an odd rpm to have a hiccup . . . it ought to be roaring like a scalded dog at that point!

BRAVO, Konstantin!!!