docc

You know you live in Norway when the winter project starts in July!

Nothing wrong with having that rebuild kit in your spares pile. Glad to hear you are back in the saddle!

So, @Lucky Phil, aside from the lighter axle, the wheel change you had planned must be a pretty dramatic unsprung weight difference . . .

Here is an image of the "slight steps/ridges" of my original rear axle (left) and the same appearance of the new axle (right):

Ah! ENGLISH English !

Yep, normal axle steps. I replaced my axle for that reason, but wasn't necessary . . .

I'm not sure my American English clearly translates that Australian English ? ? Our investigation of the reaction rod bolt failures led me to the recommendation that bolt and nut metals (type and hardness) are matched . . .

If I had even just one Titanium nut . . . Oh, wait, I took that "somewhere else" . . . I asked about matching the bolt and nut metals from learning that a 10.9 hardness bolt should be matched to a 10.9 hardness nut, maybe even the washer, to insure proper torque and no galling or distortion between the metals' differences.

Does the nut have to also be the same Titanium alloy to torque properly?

How many C3POs does it take to build a place like that?

" Later that night ! "

Good point on upgrading the Lambda probe! That was brought to us in 2020 by valued member @ScuRoo. Check out the good stuff he reported to us in his thread:

Ah, yes, installing Meinolf's map may end up your best move. I would certainly perform the entire Decent Tune-up first and decide if you find it necessary to change the map. I remain the poster child for the factory map being fine as long as the tuning parameters are seen to on a regular basis and the charging system is in good stead.

My official Waddington Effect shakedown riding for the XIX/SSR began today after having to re-bleed the rear brake that I didn't get right the first time. Waddington was right, ya know.

I recall that @guzziart sourced this harness from Gregory Bender/ ThisOldTractor:

What about adapting a car windshield sunscreen? They generally stow compactly and are for this exact purpose.

That any inaugural South'n SpineRaider would still come lift a glass with us is humbling. Even if his toast is, "I had a Spine, once! "

Three more monkeys and that damn thing would have "come from together!"

+1 on starting with the correct springs. Also, apparently the damping adjustment is not linear. As in: half the clicks is not half the damping change. There is less change between clicks to start (from loose) and more between clicks at the high end such that half the damping change is found at about 3/4 of the clicks turned in. My reference for that is Peter Verdone. His site is also where I learned that choosing fork oil by "weight" is futile. He publishes a chart of common fork oils measured in centiStokes. http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

Plus part of the "cush drive" . . . https://tlm.nl/moto-guzzi-triumph/042112010010-schokdemp-kit-versn-bak-v11

I seem to remember (I won't say "recall" this time ) that the Piaggio website is only valid for recall campaigns since 2009? Such that any VIN prior to 2009 would not show an open campaign as the recall has "expired" whether or not he work was performed ? Is this a possible explanation?

Some things are always worth repeating . . .

Let me Let me suggest a couple examples of what this thread is about: "music" [action reported, as usual]

Done. Thank you, Jaap!