docc

"plastic" could mean a lot of things. I'm not sure what Bjorn's fairing is actually made of. I think my early side covers (pictured) are some sort of (brittle) ABS, but not sure. When they, and the starter cover, and the front fender, began to come from together, my dealer replaced most of it under warranty but made me promise not to install the new pieces. They look lovely in their little bags. So, I systematically tried to reinforce all the attachment points to varying degrees of success. They all still show cracks in the paint on the outside. I'm not sure at all that those methods would reinforce Bjorn's fairing effectively. No way they would weld the cracked paint. Truly, I am totally unsure if my side covers are a terpolymer made by polymerizing styrene and acrylonitrile in the presence of polybutadiene.

Sorry to hear that, buddy. Hope there's something bright and torquey in your future!

So, simaster: just to get your thread back on topic: You replaced the speedometer cable on your 2003 V11 Sport and found that there is a different cable for the LeMans/Nero Corsa/Rosso Corsa variants and the Ballabio/Sport? You also have an early green Sport with Magni fairing? And Magni supplied you with an additional angle drive of 60˚ unlike Gio's 90˚?

Whew! Yeah, I'd hate to be paying him to build that gorgeous piece and ship it to me! That and converting to whatever the Dutch like using for currency!

sp838, sorry the forum dropped the last couple images from your gallery. Would you mind reposting them? Especially the pic of your upper clamp on the bike - bellissimo!

I am sorry the forum lost the last few posts of this great thread. Bjorn, how about a picture of the bike now?

If I understand Roy correctly, yes you can simply wire a bulb (or, better, LED) across that blank fuse holder and monitor for flicker. Another nice thing about the LED is you can run the wire up your sleeve and tape the LED inside your face shield. (really, don't) I'm usually in the 'something came unplugged, bad connector camp', but if you can't get a normal resistance in that temp sensor - it's played up. Check it at ambient and warm it with a hair dryer looking for the change.

It is part of the evil thread hijacking I have perpetrated. The 60˚ angle drives are found on the early Sports and 2002 LeMans with the white face Veglia gauges. Later black face ITI gauges like simaster's 2003 did away with the angle drives at each end relying instead on a bent metal tubing ends. At some point (now lost to the cybermist), the question arose about there being two angle drives on the early bikes since the upper angle drive is within the speedometer's housing and not readily visible. As it stands,Gio's early Sport con Magni looks to have three angle drives - two 60˚ and one 90˚.

The "electric cock" fuse slots are in the very back of the row, #8. You could simply pull that 5 amp out (if there is one) since you have a manual cock. As God intended. I get that the air temperature in the airbox could have been higher than ambient, but not likely even close to engine oil temperature (what, like 200-250˚F/ around 100˚C). Extrapolating off the bottom of Kiwi_Roy's chart suggests your sensor is signaling for 170-175˚C (almost 350˚F). You could bake a pizza in your airbox. Have you checked the resistance on that sensor with everything cold (ambient)?

I'd venture to say the majority of us have made some kind of change to our exhaust. My son is looking forward to fitting some rumblier cans to his V7 Stone (the Agostinis look nice!!). At $750-1000 US for a pair of canisters, he asked me why exhaust is so expensive. I had a couple ideas, but really, why is exhaust so expensive?

No simple cures, guys? Clip the green wire first?

That is in an unfortunately very visible location. All of the plastic on the early Sports cracked to pieces. I used both the fiberglass method and, on flat surfaces, blank circuit board epoxied and clamped.

Your angle drive screws onto the early Sport speedometer connection (green arrow) which is actually a 60˚ angle drive with the brass insert and screw collar (blue arrow) removed and bolted to the speedo with a C-collar. Interesting that your unit is 90˚ and identical construction. It even clearly shows the metal disc (red arrow) that spits out and takes the drive gear with it. It deserves a good dose of metal epoxy like JB Weld. I wonder if Magni can source a 90˚ unit, can't we find the 60˚ unit outside of Piaggio parts?

Wouldn't a 30 Ohm resistance on a sensor that should be 3,000 Ohms at that temperature say that sensor is "bad?"

So, what's next? Are you going to have someone tear it down and have a look?

:grin: :grin: You guys should be ashamed of yourselves tricking old gits into crazy dreams!

Bummer, man. I hope you can put her back together again! What made you replace the camshaft?

Methinks that is the critical energy statistic right there.

Maybe this will prompt Piaggio/Moto Guzzi to get on the stick a build the 3 cylinder diesel military bike that Carcano thought should be their next move.

So, Tom, if your lever travel has noticeably increased, look for this broken spring in the master cylinder: Bled Clutch post from 2008

As always, a good call by Hubert to start with the hydraulics. Be certain the system is recently bled with fresh fluid. Also, some master cylinders have broken their internal spring requiring rebuild. I can find that thread if would be helpful. Do you find that the hand lever has, now, a lot of free play? P.S. - Ich will nicht sagen Dieter Sie über ihn reden.

Cool! I'm in. I've always liked the Gambalunga aquilia (top of the page on the FileShare). Which is the DeTomaso emblem?

Length is the same. Early Sports have one on the upper fork tree as well. 151 7700 The decal, "Aquilia" on the alternator cover is 251 7700. Seems the self adhesive has a foam interface that degrades and separates giving the eagle flight.

Well, no. A little weeping is . . . just that. Now that you say it, I can see the difference between the grease and the gear oil. The big seal is easy to change, just don't pry it out with a screwdriver and scratch the surface. Like I did. If it keeps weeping after that, it's the inner seal which is decidedly harder to get to. You'll need a Seal Whisperer.

That looks fine. Have a look at the pinion shaft seal.