docc

That's a nicely done, simple solution. Although, I've often wondered why no one has fitted the Centauro parts as they look both lower and further forward.

Yo, g: stop speaking in code. You mean "RUST!"

Wait! What? A magnet sticks hard to my front's center carriers!

Ah! That makes sense (of course). Looking forward to your rotor solutions as my rear is going to the thin side. These latest EBC grinders don't sound like they are being too kind to the rotor!

Mine only weighs 500 pounds when it's out of gas. FWIW, an early (2000) stock (worn out) front Brembo rotor weighs 1798 grams/ 3.96 pounds. I can't imagine the rear weighs that much, but I don't have one off to weigh.

They look to be 2mm x 15mm long, although they stick out a bit at that. I suppose a #1 machine screw (maybe a #2) would work if your bike's not allergic to an occasional SAE faster . . .

Yet, on the stock mapping, the TPS position is based on 1050 rpm. I have found that expecting the mapping to function smoothly when actually calibrating at 750 rpm (my tach is off 300), is frustrating at best. I also find that I cannot expect the big Guzzi to idle reliably in traffic circumstances with high ambient temperatures at leas than 1000. Learning the error in the tach helped me better find a suitable idle speed and better fueling.

Fantastic! Added a link to these posts in the FAQ Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist.

Changing the brake master cylinder?

Hey, Rex, those Tigers have a nice character all their own and your wrist will thank you! Don't wander too far off!

If it comes to pass then, there will be "early" 2014 V7 with the old alternator, like my son's. It's front cover is identical to 2013.

As always, subtle observation is being applied to the forums to propose an appropriate Tech Session for the SSR. As of this writing, Sparky the Smoke Wrangler is, once again, going cross-eyed over wiring diagrams and packing up spare relays, fuses, and bulbs for the occasion. wear safety glasses

I shielded mine with a zinc plated/ braided copper tubing that I believe I sourced at the auto parts. It's probably 5/8" diameter and slides over the 1/2 fuel line. The same material (usually smaller) is used to make up grounding straps. Also, I shortened my line to get it away from the cylinder finning and used zip-ties and braided plastic (likely polypropylene) shielding to seal the ends of the braided metal cover. In the photo, you can also see a couple zip-tie heads positioned to hold the line off the throttle cable guide and keep it from slipping onto the cable itself.

2002 Le Mans and Sport Naked (German single page, dual sided prospekt)

Bjorn, I hate to be one to point this out, but . . . there is at least one hammer in every one of your posts.

Two big hammers, no?

Pm chamberlin. Maybe he can find his clutch line in the pile.

I guess you'll need to post back with your own answer to your own question . . . Then someone can chime in so you don't feel like you're talking to yourself.

Update: So, having just pulled my tank (and 3/4 of the wiring loom, and the rear sub-frame), I've updated this list and have added several more links to other helpful threads. Enjoy your wrenching!

So, chamberlin, on another thread (earemike/ "Finally fitted my replacement gauges"), Andy York asks: "That looks really top notch. I looked at the speed hut gauges after Kiwi Roy did his. Yours is about what I was going to do but I swear I read where the gauges were not water proof. Are yours? That was the reason I did not do it. I sometimes get caught in a real frog strangler and would hate to ruin the gauges." What's your take on this? Are the SpeedHut waterproof?

I know this Smoke Wrangler that makes house calls . . .

So, what does this mean: " . . . a new flywheel in an oil bath instead of the previous alternator dry. " ( rough translation from an Italian site ) The gearbox and alternator cover look identical to the 2013. Did anything change from 2013 to 2014 on the V7?

The rubber bushings in the fixed length rod have been known to deteriorate and are not sold separately. That said, mine are still intact after 89,000 miles/ almost 144.000 km.

Andy said, "I would use just a dab of blue loctite on the fasteners." Sander, have a look at your chain tensioner while you're in there . . .

Just curious. What was the outcome of this fix?? The RTV silcone did not work. Scroll up to Post #20, above. It shows a picture of the JB Weld epoxy I used to seal the wire into the sensor. I had already replaced the O-ring and resumed using 20-50 motor oil. That was 3 1/2 years ago, 16,000 miles and still good! Occasionally there is a little haze below the sensor that I simply clean off and make sure the fasteners are tight.