docc

Good point on upgrading the Lambda probe! That was brought to us in 2020 by valued member @ScuRoo. Check out the good stuff he reported to us in his thread:

Ah, yes, installing Meinolf's map may end up your best move. I would certainly perform the entire Decent Tune-up first and decide if you find it necessary to change the map. I remain the poster child for the factory map being fine as long as the tuning parameters are seen to on a regular basis and the charging system is in good stead.

My official Waddington Effect shakedown riding for the XIX/SSR began today after having to re-bleed the rear brake that I didn't get right the first time. Waddington was right, ya know.

I recall that @guzziart sourced this harness from Gregory Bender/ ThisOldTractor:

What about adapting a car windshield sunscreen? They generally stow compactly and are for this exact purpose.

That any inaugural South'n SpineRaider would still come lift a glass with us is humbling. Even if his toast is, "I had a Spine, once! "

Three more monkeys and that damn thing would have "come from together!"

+1 on starting with the correct springs. Also, apparently the damping adjustment is not linear. As in: half the clicks is not half the damping change. There is less change between clicks to start (from loose) and more between clicks at the high end such that half the damping change is found at about 3/4 of the clicks turned in. My reference for that is Peter Verdone. His site is also where I learned that choosing fork oil by "weight" is futile. He publishes a chart of common fork oils measured in centiStokes. http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

Plus part of the "cush drive" . . . https://tlm.nl/moto-guzzi-triumph/042112010010-schokdemp-kit-versn-bak-v11

I seem to remember (I won't say "recall" this time ) that the Piaggio website is only valid for recall campaigns since 2009? Such that any VIN prior to 2009 would not show an open campaign as the recall has "expired" whether or not he work was performed ? Is this a possible explanation?

Some things are always worth repeating . . .

Let me Let me suggest a couple examples of what this thread is about: "music" [action reported, as usual]

Done. Thank you, Jaap!

"We'll now have a brief intermission, with two minutes and fifty-six seconds of pre-recorded music " . . .

That was shocking noise, wasn't it @kalev11 ? Apparently, the dramatically mis-set TPS caused such running imbalance at idle that the cylinder firing combined with the wear of my flywheel to sound like nine monkeys fighting their way out of a steel barrel with ball pien hammers . . .

A black Quat-D on a Scura ExtraDark . Now, that's just . . . . edgy . . .

I am not certain what the current availability of rotors is for our V11s. Some braking systems (cars I have owned, i.e. Volvo) were designed to change the rotors with pads. "But they have great brakes " was my service writer's reply to my bitching, er, "objection." AFAIK, our Brembo are not designed this way. I realize racing look$ at expendable part$ differently.

Yes, the angle of the throttle cable to the bell crank can be problematic and even fray/break strands of the cable. Simple to inspect and correct:

Don't worry about the day light/tail light/Fuse 6. That is a separate circuit with no relay. So, you have power from Fuse 5 to the #2 relay? But no power to pull in the relay coil with the ignition switch on? I would be inspecting the Ignition Switch for a broken wire where they are soldered onto the switch.

Your fuse block is correct. The diagram is simply not oriented as if on the bike. Let's direct replies about this specific problem to its dedicated thread:

Seriously makes me wonder about the internal clutch master spring condition. Rebuild kit is readily available and not hard to install. How many miles on your V11?

Note that the PO turned the plunger screw as far in as it could go, and adjusted the lever position as far away as it can be. This is exactly what I did to compensate for the broken spring inside the master cylinder. Perhaps what you need is a master cylinder rebuild? Even with those adjustment settings, is there play in the lever travel?

Is there a wee spring indexing that plunger screw? (The tips of which are seen on the upper side of the lever through the two holes):

If your V11 is on the side stand, the clutch master is already positioned low (aimed downward) and can trap an air bubble, either in the black plastic elbow from the reservoir tube or in the banjo fitting. Try positioning the bike so those parts can be rotated to the highest level. Then, consider strapping the lever to the grip overnight; maybe give the trap areas a little light tapping from time to time.