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Let me Let me suggest a couple examples of what this thread is about: "music" [action reported, as usual]

Done. Thank you, Jaap!

"We'll now have a brief intermission, with two minutes and fifty-six seconds of pre-recorded music " . . .

That was shocking noise, wasn't it @kalev11 ? Apparently, the dramatically mis-set TPS caused such running imbalance at idle that the cylinder firing combined with the wear of my flywheel to sound like nine monkeys fighting their way out of a steel barrel with ball pien hammers . . .

A black Quat-D on a Scura ExtraDark . Now, that's just . . . . edgy . . .

I am not certain what the current availability of rotors is for our V11s. Some braking systems (cars I have owned, i.e. Volvo) were designed to change the rotors with pads. "But they have great brakes " was my service writer's reply to my bitching, er, "objection." AFAIK, our Brembo are not designed this way. I realize racing look$ at expendable part$ differently.

Yes, the angle of the throttle cable to the bell crank can be problematic and even fray/break strands of the cable. Simple to inspect and correct:

Don't worry about the day light/tail light/Fuse 6. That is a separate circuit with no relay. So, you have power from Fuse 5 to the #2 relay? But no power to pull in the relay coil with the ignition switch on? I would be inspecting the Ignition Switch for a broken wire where they are soldered onto the switch.

Your fuse block is correct. The diagram is simply not oriented as if on the bike. Let's direct replies about this specific problem to its dedicated thread:

Seriously makes me wonder about the internal clutch master spring condition. Rebuild kit is readily available and not hard to install. How many miles on your V11?

Note that the PO turned the plunger screw as far in as it could go, and adjusted the lever position as far away as it can be. This is exactly what I did to compensate for the broken spring inside the master cylinder. Perhaps what you need is a master cylinder rebuild? Even with those adjustment settings, is there play in the lever travel?

Is there a wee spring indexing that plunger screw? (The tips of which are seen on the upper side of the lever through the two holes):

If your V11 is on the side stand, the clutch master is already positioned low (aimed downward) and can trap an air bubble, either in the black plastic elbow from the reservoir tube or in the banjo fitting. Try positioning the bike so those parts can be rotated to the highest level. Then, consider strapping the lever to the grip overnight; maybe give the trap areas a little light tapping from time to time.

This is a killer offer! And so much work already done. Interested parties should know that the odometer mileage is easily configured.

All good. I have my own history and reverence for our US Independence Day. Yet, we are an international community, so this is not relevant to all of our members. The same awkward circumstance occurred when the Queen of England passed. That was not "silly banter", but mattered to some of our community. Yet, we have no other "catch-all" subforum. I am asking our Chief Whip to consider re-titling this subforum that we may keep a place for banter and conversation that is not V11/Guzzi/technical/archived . . .

As so many times, I will make this reply and promptly report myself. It is on me when topics get moved. There was no other place for this, yet this matter has come up before: A topic gets posted that is not technical, motorcycle, or Guzzi related and . . . where does it belong? I will discuss this with our Admin/ Chief Whip @Admin Jaap and perhaps we may retitle this subforum as a "catch-all" without suggesting silliness or frivolity. Matters of Silly Banter and Redneck Trashtalk shall ever have a place here, though. Some of our best "conversation!"

Cross post with a promising solution:

During my current Wheel Off Maintenance session, racing Mr. Waddington to the upcoming Nineteenth South'n SpineRaid, I gave this a go. I have tried EVERYTHING, over all this time, to grease "that bloody farking front UNI joint " as @dangerous so aptly referred to it. Many of you recall that I finally resolved to just pull my swingarm every third rear tire and triage the shaft . . . Like @Guzziglide, I approached the front Zerk from forward of the swingarm using the 180º swivel tip, with the Zerk at the "twelve o'clock" position/ straight up. With the swivel tip aimed as acute as possible, and the grease gun held as high as possible, I was finally able to connect and feel the grease enter the U-joint. I found it helpful to slightly relieve (unscrew) the tension on the tip. A little grease comes out of the connection, but that is okay for this long-sought success! [view, below, shows the direction of access, but the tip has to be oriented vertically and aimed as far forward as possible with the grease gun raised high to the point of contacting the frame side plate]: [endoscopic view, from behind, through the swingarm]: Compared to @Guzziglide's images , it seems the enigmatic, early RedFrame/ShortFrame needs a bit more radical approach angle to make this work. (Still not sure what changed or why the ShortFrames are so much more difficult): Best outcome, ever! I set @80CX100's post as "Best Answer."

Just replaced a rear tire and performed an appropriate "Wheels Off Maintenance" including servicing the rear brake (clean/rotate pistons, bleed the fluid, check the pads). The "blue back" Brembo Carbon Ceramic I had installed last had gone from 4mm pad thickness to 1mm in 6500 miles. YMMV, but I usually get 10,000 from the rear pads (Yes. I use the all the brakes). So, I went to OPP Racing for the OE Brembo black back pads (FF/ organic) $16US, but with $13.95 insured shipping, I ordered two sets to make that seem okay.

Thanks, @LaGrasta. A rather "uncommon" (I won;t say "rare") long tank 2003 Sport (many, if not most 2003 Sports were "carryover" short tank models). Keep us posted on the outcome of the auction, please!

Truth be known, with fourteen of us in the queue (never again!), I knew there were several unprepared to roll into that 55ºF/13ºC cloud ceiling from the 90ºF basin we rode up from, and pulled us off to regroup and "suit-up". The hapless fellow's dangerous exhaust falling off was spotted by one of our sharp-eyed SpineRaiders . . .

I think my comment about riding in shorts was rather wooly, itself. FWIW, the tube, or channel, built into quality earplugs and hearing aids has everything to do with providing equalized pressure across the eardrum lest balance, equilibrium, or disorientation issues arise . . .

I love music, but abandoned riding with a music feed (outside of my head!) finding it too distracting at inopportune times. I saw the same happen to others. The last molded earplugs I had made in "vibrant colors" . . . right and left (standard maritime/aviation designations). Much easier to find when dropped onto the tarmac at a fuel stop than the standard, neutral color of silicone. How people ride without ear protection just stuns me. Might as well ride in shorts and a tank top with your cap on backward, as well.

It occurs to me to have some fun approaching this in steps: 1) Decent Tune-up / Ride for a time. 2) Slip on the canisters of your choice / Ride for a time. 3) Decide whether to change anything / (like add a crossover) / Ride for a time 4) Meinolf your map / Ride for a time. 5) Ponder the outcomes / Post what you find / Ride for a time . . . FWIW, I wouldn't expect any significant and measurable "Horsepower and Torque" gains, but would shoot for ride-ability and (how shall we say?): BRIO !