docc

Hey , Pete, trying to make sense of that date . . . January six? 2014?

Now you're mixing beer with food! This could be going too far . . .

I can see the classified ad: Low mile V11, needs wiring harness, small undertank fire; bike located some distance from here, but was pretty well hidden when I walked home . . .

That is an awful, ugly mess. Mine was in the tool tray behind the battery. I pulled out twenty feet (I kid you not) of 1/2 inch fuel line. The mess weighed five pounds. Won't the ugly part unbolt and leave the U-shaped hanger?

Earlier evap cans were mounted elsewhere. They are not the main purpose of the bracket. It is the primary exhaust hanger. I tried to photograph mine and couldn't come up with a good image. I would be finding a TIG guy to button it back on. I suppose all the aftermarket cross-overs (Stucchi, Mistral, etc) delete the carrier as well [?] , so maybe it's no big deal.

vrybl, I suspect the crank sensor is just like the one on the V11 and certainly can leak. There is an O-ring that is easy to replace, yet mine continued to leak though the wire which I sealed with JBWeld as shown in this thread. There are a couple other leak sources in that area that are more difficult to remedy, so it would be good to be certain the leak is simply from the sensor (easy fix).

It's ok, I already have a point. If I wear a hat, nobody notices it.

Hey, V! Just noticed your post. I've moved it to the Newer Models sub-forum to get a better viewing and response.

Ah, sorry I didn't see the unique voltage. I was too busy revising my post, looking up bulb ratings, checking my math and squinting at the wiring diagram. K_Roy is gonna get us straightened out on this and is definitely the best qualified to address the 250vDC question. My understanding is that as DC voltage goes up, wire size can be reduced. Not sure of that means the contact surfaces have been reduced similarly in your switch, but it would explain how it could be much smaller.

Hey, Gio, You might want to also follow the options on this thread: magic smoke & tachs

Woops! It would be a concern that without the middle exhaust hanger, added stress and leverage on the header mounts could increase the chance of cracking there. Bailing wire?

MGS-01 headlamp?

DieselPunk Stout World Brews, Rochester, NY 5.8% A proper Guzzi shop beer, goes well with a workshop manual or the occasional wiring diagram. Full bodied, sweet malt with a clean caramel finish. Too cold to drink at 42˚F, but the shop manual is not to be kept waiting!

Kiwi_Roys' tach thread: Veglia tach problem

I'm not sure on that connector. It might be a LeMans thing and not found on the Sports with the earlier Bosch headlamp. I can't see much on the left side above the valve cover with my tank on. (Yours is on the left?)

Pad manufacturers generally have a recommended bedding procedure, so you could check with whomever supplied your pads. Otherwise make sure your pads are in good shape with plenty of thickness (these rears don't start with much material to begin with, maybe 4 or 5 mm). Clean the rotor well with BrakeClean and a ScotchBrite pad or equivalent. Clean the pistons and make sure they move in and out of the caliper evenly. Next, take the bike for a spin where you can do multiple stops without impeding traffic. (Again, you should cross reference this procedure with your pad manufacturer's recommendations): From about 60 mph/100kph make a steady brake pressure to slow the bike to about 10 mph with out coming to a full stop. Come back up to speed and allow the brake to cool and repeat five or six times each time increasing the aggression of the application slightly to end up at 80 or 90%. If the hot pad smell is excessive, lighten up on the pressure. Then ride the bike for 15 minutes or so without applying the brakes or coming to a stop if possible. Even though you're bedding primarily the rear, it is probably good to do the fronts at the same time. They likely also need it and the stopping will be safer. The last time I did this, my pulsing almost completely stopped. As I recall, it was an EBC procedure.

Definitely looks like the kind of thing the Magic Smoke can escape form! Roy! Roy! Roy!

Is it that it pulses while applied or have you actually checked the run out with a gauge? Pulsing is often the result of uneven coating of pad resin and can be evened out with a bedding procedure.

I had my bar weights machined to take the clamps on the CRG mirrors. I was pricey lathe time!

What is the battery voltage ignition off/ idle/ 2500 rpm? House call?

So, that is likely the original battery. Sure, some previous owner might have bought the factory replacement, but not likely. In that case, your charging and wiring systems have a good reputation! Word has been that the "Spark" was made by Hawker. The Hawker Odyssey PC545 is a likely candidate for a replacement. Some say you should also get their dedicated charger. Otherwise, definitely be aware that the charging parameters are unique to the AGM.

Is it a "Spark" brand? Seems like the originals were Spark 500? You might unhook the battery and see if it continues to drop; then the battery would be suspect. FWIW, my PC545 is holding 12.9 after 48hrs and the charge procedure above. How the AGM are charged, apparently, can make a great deal of difference.

This is brilliant! That last one: such a dark bottle and a dark label with the bi-plane and the dark promise . . . in the glass it looks a little "friendly." Buddy, I'm starting to feel a little sorry for you. All the weight of this thread. A different beer every day. See you Tuesday! Gonna help you out . . .

Sheesh! Waited, like, all day for that post. Now, I'm not so sure it is good juju to picture liquids so close to a regulator . . . Guzzi content, sure, but the juju? (kidding of course -I am so digging this!)