docc

Ahh, Ratchet.. Ironic that in 2007 Ratchet couldn't get a search result and now we search and find him! Also ironic that he (rightfully) cast aspersions on Wikipedia as a final source, but was thrilled with Mick Walker. The irony is that it is very likely Walker's writing that perpetrated the whole tractor engine misconception.

While it is widely known that the V700 motorcycle introduced by Moto Guzzi in the 1960s was designed by engineer Guilio Carcano (along with Umberto Todero), the myth that it was derived from "a tractor" (the 3x3 Mulo Meccanico, or mechanical mule) has been so often repeated to have become (wrongly) accepted as fact. Many thanks to Greg Field, Moto Guzzi Big Twins, MBI publishing, 1998, for his outstanding research on this. Beyond that, though, many would say the concept of a shaft drive, longitudinal V-twin dates to the Indian Model 841(military) built in the early 1940s. The architecture is certainly there: Today, though, I came across this Lambretta 250GP from 1953 pictured in Motorcycle Classics magazine, Nov/Dec 2013, in an article about Vittorio Tessera's Museo Scooter & Lambretta in Rodano near Milan. (museoscooter.it). I've never seen this bike before, but the formula is fabulously familiar!

Enjoying this everyday, Jim! But it makes mouth a little dry . . .

Gotcha!

AHA! So the "search function" does work ! !

That is a tough call. Replace it while you've got your hands on it? Or, "It ain't broke, don't fix it?"

Haven't fitted a GT front yet (won't be long), so I am also looking forward to seeing the difference on the edge wear. Left sides typically scrub off quicker here in The States. The improvement in the rear was notable, so I am hoping the front will equally impress!

We play this now at parties. It is a fantastic hit! My son took it back to college and has made new friends! It is even funnier than when Andy York asked me if I had stopped to oil my chain. Come to think of it, he had finished his cigarette and the Coke was long gone . . .

HMB Guzzi in Germany

Somehow my computer overdubbed Clapton playing Have You Ever Loved a Woman? onto the video of the chap revving the 2-stroke. Brilliant!

The vent hose is so nefarious (and so old on this bike) that I suppose I should certainly replace it and watch the leak for a time before bursting the bike to bits . . .

It all came together for me at "bier!"

Let's leave the other thread for sure. I think it has a link here. If we compare notes and findings here, I think it makes later searches more effective. From what Roper said, a rear main seal would really put out a lot of volume and it's right above the weep hole. Makes it (perhaps) more likely it's one of the other sources.

Roger that. Good plan. Thanks!

HAHA! I was waiting to see what YOU found! Now I'm making a list of everything a properly fettled 89,000 mile V11 Sport ought to have on a winter tear down . . . Ken, I know you started another thread on your leak, but what say we combine results? (I bet we won't have the last two wet weep holes on the planet . . . )

Seems that after sitting for a couple weeks, then riding about 35 miles, the leak has returned. Also, the blank over the distributor access is wet. Fasteners are tight. I suppose the good news there is it will be easy to get to with the gearbox out and spine frame crabbed . . .

Regarding the numbness, the nerve to that part of the hand comes through the carpal tunnel of the wrist from one particular nerve root in the lower neck. I assume the Sport in your avatar is your current set-up. In that case, most of the vibration (of the early Sports) has been addressed by the handle bars and more upright position. No personal experience with those grip covers, but there are a couple other things to be aware of. Sometimes making the grip bigger can aggravate the condition. Those grips pads likely aren't terribly expensive so may be worth a simple try. Otherwise, be certain that, in your riding position with gloves on, you're able to keep the wrist straight to maintain throttle position. Most of us position our controls to have a straight shot to the brake, but the wrist/hand spend most of it's time at about quarter throttle. Just something simple worth trying!

I suppose I should throw this in then: Tank Off Maintenance Checklist in FAQ

A few answers: 1) Reaction rods and bushings are sold as an assembly. Others have made bushings to press fit using Delrin if a machine shop will make them to fit for you. 2) I have not seen PC545 with plate, but you will not need the plate. 3 and 4) The middle relay allows the bike to run with the side stand down. It is easy to replace. Also, inspect the electrical connection to the Neutral Switch on the left side of the gearbox. Make sure it is tight and sealed from moisture.

After effectively hijacking your thread right from the start, I went looking for some links to original question: Footpeg relocation in FAQ by Ryland3210 who is, incidentally, MotraTech Forward foot position in Tech Topics started by Ryland and goes 8 pages with a lot of posting from other members. Buell Lightning Foot Pegs in Tech Topics started by edge Motobits vs. Motratech is an older thread brought back by hoosier just a few months back. Hopefully, some other members will chime in with their experiences!

It was all pretty disappointing. They welded it back and I refinished the cosmetics. They sent it elsewhere to get the bearing out and even those folks tore up the inside making another new leak. In good faith, I even paid the guys. Andy York finally put it all straight for me. Moral of the story: the rear drive "shroud" or "flange" is fragile for certain. earemike, you think anyone has had a go at the seals or bearings in your drive?

Mine was broken along that trailing edge (much worse than yours) by a "mechanic" who had heated the rear drive up and dropped it on a block to release the inside bearing. Apparently, this is a common technique on the older style rear drives that did not have so large a flange.

I keep forgetting what the right nipple is. One is the overflow and one is the tank vapor vent. Both can be "T-eed" together if the carbon canister suction system has been removed. Refitting the tank bolt is a function of tank deformation. Be careful to only remove the tank when it is (near) empty. While there is much debate about fuel additives, ethanol *could* be problematic for these tanks. *Nudge*nudge*wink*wink*know*what*I*mean?* Oh, for goodness sake: avoid the ethanol if you can! ("Know what I mean . . .?")

What will become even more important than the controls will be matching the fork and shock springs to your weight. Even at an (extra-fluffy) five-eightish-nine, my Sport's springs were dialed in for some welter-weight Italian test rider in race leathers. "Set your sag."

I tried to get BelRay, one of my favored brands, to address these specifications once. No response, though. I really like the RedLine grease. I wish I could tell you it meets all of those specs (but I couldn't say). When we've discussed this in the past, the prevailing view came to getting some kind of grease into those u-joints from time to time is a good idea. My last shot at it was a bugger. Even with the needle method, the front eluded me. I finally got a fitting on it but not before it doubled my vocabulary. Post what you find about the specification. I don't think anyone has ever gotten it nailed down.