docc

This from a guy who's Ireland Ride should have the word "pub" in it!

YO! That is chamberlin's Norge!!

Don't count on "remapping" or absolutely needing a PC. Many would say the factory mapping was more fit for the free flowing exhaust to begin with. Do plan on a complete, meticulous tune-up. You're gonna love the way this changes the V11 character!

I would start with the canisters you like the looks of. They all sound great next to the stock LaFranconi cans and weigh probably five pounds less per side. Then you can add the crossover of your choice. Good thread there by Greg Field on cross-over comparisons. No reason to change the headpipes.

What keeps turning and turning is the grip shaft that the end weight threads into. So, yes, it unscrews, but you'll have to anchor the tube to unscrew the weight. Applying some heat to where they join might be helpful (after you cut off the left grip and remove the throttle pipe). You might also get some penetrating oil to work into the threads at that same junction (the threads are all the way at the end of the tube).

I guess I am not using the most correct terminology there: "oiled cotton gauze" it is! I still have the 33-2682 in mine, but the CG9002 definitely looks like it will be better fit. Other than the slight dimensional difference, they do look similar, but the pleats go across instead of lengthwise. Thanks for the clarification! (edited the original post)

That's brilliant! I love the wedding story! Closest we came at my (wife's) Italian wedding on the Lovely Jersey Shore was my my bother's blessing (which he voiced just before juggling axes and machetes over the parquet dance floor): "The secret to a good life is a wet mustache. How you get it is your business!" Of the sizable crowd, there were a good number of the old Italian guys slapping their thighs . . . And, Jaap, I know you're not fond if Heineken (who is?), but I've never seen anything outside the nasty green bottle . I would give the bock a try if only I could.

I didn't see any costs on the website, but they say you should use their service if you notice: " . . . Poor idle, loss of performance, hesitation, hard starting, detonation, surging or misfiring." Sounds like a thread title on V11LeMans.com

Also worth mentioning that the Italian Tune-up Plug Chop should be done on fresh plugs. Yet with a four stroke, injected motor on modern fuels you won't likely see much unless something is way out of kilter.

It seems to me that a valve there would only make things worse. Let's hope a good quality "fuel injection style" clamp will make a difference. Nothing wrong with hoping! Otherwise, it's crabbing the frame and good questions about whether to replace everything ("once and done"), or leave things alone if they are not the problem ("If it ain't broke, don't fix it").

It was a revelation to me that there is a substantial gap around the vent pipe the "pokes through" the top of the clutch housing. If the clamp is loose or the attached hose is breaking down, the crankcase vented oil vapors will drain back down the hose and run through the bell (clutch) housing and out the lower weep hole. fugazzi: what did you use for a replacement hose - MG part or one of the alternatives (heater hose)?

For a comprehensive listing of possible leaks at the clutch housing, this still has to be the best-ever post on this topic by Pete Roper in the thread "Who's Smug Now?" (With thread names like that, is there some wonder why searching the forums can be frustrating?

czakky's plugs:

That looks clean. I suppose it's worth a new clamp. Pete details the other leak sources from the back of the engine besides the rear main seal. Unfortunately, they all require removing the gearbox to inspect and address.

The thread Bell Housing Leak has links to an excellent post by Pete Roper with great emphasis on the why and how of the crankcase vent being the likely culprit.

Good news for those worrying about the rear main seal: After tightening the crankcase vent, this is how the weep hole area looks after about 100 miles;

It says V11, but appears to be more of a tricked-out Griso:

battery charger?

Sheeez - you retired guys! For me, three weeks apart is back-to-back!

Yeah: no more summer South'n Spine Raids. One heat stroke is enough!

Being the second rider coming up, it is hard to ignore the words. I would be curious about even a "catch phrase" from the end of the dialog. I can only fill in what has been said to me in English, like, "Man, I just got out of the hot tub and had a nice single malt. Did you you get lost or have a break-down?" or: "All of the women in the lodge have been satisfied, but it's good you have finally got here. Maybe you could iron their shirts." or even: "Oh, man, it's OK, Nurburgring is like that - you could be stuck behind a tour bus for lap after lap . . ."

Isn't it amazing the pics we can get with our *phone* ? Makes me jealous . . last ride on the Sport: 26 miles. ( The one before that was 500 miles for Barber Vintage Festival, so I'm not complaining - just jealous!)

Don't these V11 just love this cool, dense air? Great scenery! So, a hundred mile ride? More? (combined the two posts to the one thread)

I thought this was the Regularly Scheduled Program . . . The connecter for the fuel level sensor unplugs, but does not unscrew. There are two small lines that attach to two nipples under the tank for vent and overflow. If they have no lines on them, consider routing them to a "Y" and a line out under the bike behind the engine as gstallons had posted. Your petcock has been converted from an electrical to a manual (a good thing), but the knob can be hard to get completely closed by hand. I'm not sayin' you'll need six foot ChannelLocks, but I know a guy that has 'em if you need 'em . . . If you can see the K&N just by lifting the tank, your air box lid has been modified. There are several ways to do that, but intake from the top of the box makes it more important that none of the heat shielding on the underside of the tank is loose and can block air flow.

Yeah, it's dizzying the array of RedLine product. You won't be disappointed in what you have there. The "ShockProof" series are, as I understand The numbers are for illustration only, they could be off. But that is the concept as I recall. Plus, they have a lovely milkshake appearance; the LW being blue, the HW: red (or "pink"). I suspect the RL product you have looks like "oil" (amber ?), although we've used some RL gearoil in the BMW cars that looks red and clear like automatic transmission fluid.