docc

You have a link for a source for those? (I'm thinking ali-express ) . . .

Heh, well, yeah ! I realize not everyone has special attachments to things like the underside of their exhaust . . . [edit: a topic for another thread . . . ]

While I have been satisfied with reduction of wind noise while retaining perception of traffic and exhaust note (with my molded audiologist earplugs), I did learn (the hard way) that high pitched mechanical noise is obscured by effective ear plugs. This, unfortunately, allowed my GB500 rockers and cam to consume themselves over a long period of time. Until, one day, I heard it idling without the earplugs/helmet. The clatter was alarming!

@JRD is a bona fide South'n SpineRaider from Eleventh SSR, 2015: Two months to SSR IX, y'all . . . (I'd rather we sort JRD's LeMans from here than from one of those Cherohala overlooks above the cloud ceiling.)

Those are some great questions! Second question first: There are numerous contributors to the stumbling hesitation in the 2500-3000 rpm range. A well performed tune-up, not skipping any steps, goes a long way toward smoothing this out as much as possible. Optimizing the components and connections of the charging system has also proved beneficial. That said, @Lucky Phil so adeptly pointed out the (dramatic) ignition advance in that rpm range at very minimal throttle openings is problematic. (In addition @pete roper expertly reminds us that riding the Guzzi big block "sub-4000 rpm" is undesirable on a lot of levels): Third question second: You can likely find a better supplier than the one you referenced. Worth trying. First question third: The Decent Tune-up will have you assess the CO Fuel Trim setting and zero it if necessary. IIRC, this will necessitate disabling the lambda probe. FWIW, mySport ran better with Mistral canisters (with stock crossover) than with the rather restrictive, and heavy, factory LaFranchoni. Since my factory crossover is very special to me, I would never change it out . . .

Nice to know about Decibulz . I have long used custom molded earplugs made by my audiologist, but they don't fit flush. And they're definitely not $25! Add about a hundred bucks . . .

That would explain the two LEDs you have that don't light. Do your LEDs plug in to the existing sockets (making this an easy "pull it out/turn it/push it back in" affair?)

Moved @JRD's inquiry to this dedicated topic. Pretty likely a common failure that others will benefit from knowing about and finding here in the future . . .

Hey, @JRD! Good to see you back! Those functions are all Relay #2, all from the same (Fuse #5). Check for power at the relay base then at the fuse. Next check upstream is the ignition switch inspection. Probably best we move this to its own topic. You'll get it squared away!

Possibly wired in backwards?

5 years/ 17,000 miles/ 27.500 km on this "Vintage Car" LED (my second LED after numerous attempts to enhance the H4). Great Hi- and Lo- beam patterns from the early Sport Bosch steel bucket reflector/lens. Not sure how this may apply the the later V11 plastic bucket . . . https://vintagecarleds.com/shop/bulbs-only/vcm3-bulbs-only/

Yep. With fluid in the reservoir, give the lever some "wiggles" and watch for bubbles. When the bubbles quit, give it a "gravity flush". Open the lower bleeder on the slave and drain it into a container. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir and keep refilling as it gravity flushes. I refilled about five times before starting the 10-lever pumps/closed bleeder-> open the bleeder-> repeat five or six times. I also, intermittently, strapped the lever to the grip and even tapped the M/C to dislodge air bubbles.

BTW, this is the rebuild kit I used. Brembo number: 110436292 I questioned the MG Cycle "rectangular" description and that the V11 is not in the applications list, yet there we have it . . . https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=5196

I did! Clutchless shifting the last five miles. And I suppose I did run that one stop sign, technically. Just test rode the rebuilt clutch master cylinder.

Back on the road. Shifts better than it has in a long, long time. I knew this spring was broken since I have been periodically adjusting the lever further and further out Then, turned the plunger engagement out as far as it would go. I did make a cylindrical drive tool to seat the retention ring since the socket I tried using the first time tore the dust seal. I'm just planning on a rebuild at 300.000 kays this time . . .

Other than stopping there for the photo op, I went in to see if they had some well made summer gloves. My Sport was having none of it and spit its clutch master cylinder on the way home.

Darius is right about the ring prying out (no Dremel required). There is always a measure of satisfaction getting eyes and fingers on the definitive source of trouble. This is the jumble I found the spring in: Four pieces, again:

I don't think I've ever lubed the high idle cable before . . .

A man can hope . . .

I'll inspect the bore when I get it apart. Yep: DOT4

My clutch lever action has been compromised for a while (lever getting closer and closer to the grip). I have adjusted the lever as far out as it will go and turned the actuator screw in as far as possible. Today, riding in very high temperatures (95ºF/35ºC), the lever moved clear to the grip and finally gave up. I can see a little fluid at the master cylinder plunger, so I know I can't put the rebuild off any longer. First M/C rebuild at 62,000 miles/ 100.000 km. Another 68,000mi/~110.000 km has elapsed since then. Fair to say that I work the clutch actuation A LOT; love to row the gears. Very curious to see if the internal spring is in multiple pieces, again . . .

World famous home of Jack Daniels distillery . . .

The only way any Gearbox oil would cause your (dry) clutch to slip would be a leak, no matter what oil is in the box . . . You have been all back and forth through this, though, haven't you @cash1000 ?

Oi !