docc

That's a good article gs linked to Motorcyclist. Honestly, we can't pay too much attention to suspension set-up. My forks came up 5mm in the triple clamps. Fresh springs front and back. I'll have to look back at my set-up notes, but I shot for 25% rear sag and 30% front. I generally keep some weight in the Teknos (tools, air compressor and such . . .). Getting the right springs is the key.

You should have me over one day with some solder and heat shrink . We'll corral the Magic Smoke and make the sparkies proud!

That's an interesting explanation. I suppose there are solid state flasher that would simply plug in and eliminate the delay?

On my busted up side covers I use stainless finish washers to spread the load. Looks like they would also work on the fender:

So, I've really never thought about this or noticed it, but yes: activating the turn signal switch doesn't instantly light the bulb. A fraction of a second and it begins flashing. I'm not convinced there is a fault.

Had to toss my old V11LeMans shirt Andy York gave me back when. Time to get a new one! I like the Guinness knock off, but not fond of the "Extra Grunt" phrase, preferring "CON BRIO" or something suitably Italian. Agreed with DanM, the rendering shows a dot com which is not V11LeMans.com? At this point, it would be neat to see this move ahead. Merchandising and shipping can be a lot of work, so maybe not worth the hoops-lah?

The guys from Revival Cycles are using these. Looks to be the real deal. Nicely made, kind of pricey and, reportedly, very bright.

Yes, the early Sport (1999-2001) including (I believe) the Rosso Mandello have shorter, steeper raked unbraced frames with a 4.5 inch rear wheel width. Easiest way to tell if a frame is the later "more stable" frame is to look for braces spanning the bottom of the gearbox. My understanding is that the swing-arm length did not change (?) Reports of high speed weave and grip vibration on the introductory V11 led the factory to make numerous changes for 2002. My weave experience was typical of early reports: above 90 mph in disturbed air (as in passing trucks on a freeway). Ditching the squirming Dragon Corsas with their more triangular profile, firmer tire pressures, and backing off the steering damper all made a good difference. Of course, the final answer was getting the correct spring rates and setting the sag to load the front. I still eat up tires. And fuel. And brake pads. And still won't ever catch Andy York, The Perfesser His-self, as he slips away all so smooth and fast. There is nothing quite like the visceral sensation of rolling sedately along the Cherohala Skyway on a crisp sunny morning when three (3!) V11 strafe by at full chat. Once again, swallowed by the Jabberwock!

Wear bars for sure. I thought the ST had them also, but like you, the cord always appeared first. Those are pretty high pressures (I'm at 35/40) but always better than too soft. I seem to recall the Sport's original Dragon Corsa recommendations were 33/37 - another contributor to it's squishy weavy nature as delivered.

At least now we know what caused it . . .

Having lived in Bavaria as a youth, I've always wanted to like the BMW motorcycles. Sadly, they have always disappointed. I am somehow sure the engineers have been told to make the engine "un-noticed," and the steering to be as stable as the Bismarck. I find they have succeeded, but I've never ridden a BMW, even the sport models, that rival the Moto Guzzi for liveliness. "Brio," if you will. I danced with a Bavarian girl once, though, and she could have changed my mind, if we'd had more time . . . Oh, wait . . . she was Dutch!

You're not admitting much about the ten hour clock . . . I would like one of about fourteen or so and maybe catch up over a few years . . .

So, that relay bypass would delete both the Side Stand Switch, the Neutral Switch, and the relay?

My rear tire average over 22 tires is 3538. The original Pirelli Dragon Corsa went 2772. IMO, they were one of the major contributors to the early Sport's tendency to high speed weave. The difference I saw with the GT is that it gave me more time at the end without getting critical.

As Steinbeck had said, "The world was, once again, spinning on greased grooves." (Cannery Row, 1945)

I've run a tire or two off my 2000 Sport. I'm hard on tires, up-shifting hard and engine braking back down. Sprint the straight, brake hard, and drive out. Not a formula for tire life. Sporty good fun, ya, but change your tires with your oil. The 2000 V11 Sport was delivered with Pirelli Dragon Corsa. Kind of like a heavy, but very pretty, girl on high heels. Going dancing? Better be ready for the catch! Down-size-ing to the 160 on the early, narrow rims, and finding more suitable tires, along with setting the proper sag (weighting the front) has all been brilliant. The reports of weave and such would be gone. This Pirelli Angel GT is my 25th rear tire. New tire for them: new tire for me. I didn't expect much. I like Pirelli. I've worn out: Dragon Corsa, Diablo Strada, (x5), Angel (x4) (Dunlop, Michelin, Metzler, Bridgestone - ok, so I sleep around ) As Pirelli have evolved the tires I have seen very little change "in the field." Until now. In the past, if a tire was beginning to look worn - replace it! The wear would accelerate in the last couple hundred miles. I took a chance riding to Barber's Vintage Festival and back on this "new" Pirelli GT. 500 miles round trip, 45 mph average speed (no big high speed runs - riding with small displacement Hondas!) Average miles on all prior Angels/Stradas: 3,700 miles. Impression: they "go away" quickly in the last couple hundred miles. I would not have left on this 500 mile trip on those tires. Risked the trip on the GT: 4,100 miles and it needs replacing, but didn't let me down on the trip giving up a big white stripe I was watching for the whole time. My impression: the Pirelli Angel GT is a breakthrough for our lovely (if heavy) dancing girls!

Hold the phone on that side stand switch . . . When you say short it, you don't mean to ground? You're saying you can just close the connection, bypass the switch? Just to clarify, the Side Stand Switch supplies current to the Run Switch while in gear and in motion. It is the main current flow while riding. To prevent riding off with the side stand down, we have the Neutral Switch on the left side of the gearbox. It activates the center relay and supplies current to the Run Switch while the side stand is down in neutral. The schematics call it the "Side Stand Relay" but it is activated by the Neutral Switch. The Side Stand Switch supplies running current directly with no relay. I would think it is easy enough to keep in service to prevent riding off on a side stand. Half way to a bad day there.

I used to keep mine bolted off until I finally stripped the threads removing them to do the throttle body balance. Then I went back to the brass nipples and rubber caps. For now, I think you'd be better off to seal it with a short fastener.

Good for you! You're onto some of the spooky badness, for sure. Sounds like it's time for a new ground cable. While you're at it, make sure the regulator is grounded to the timing chest and that is grounded to the spine frame. Next to sort out what ever the PO has wired in. Knowledgeable technicians or enthusiasts would not use red wire on the negative side of a 12vDC system. It is the proper home of black wires, or possibly dark green. So where ever those go is suspect. Can you post a picture of the mystery cylinder? The hose form the intake picks up vacuum there. There should be an identical port on the other side. Originally, they were part of the carbon canister emissions mess. These are also the vacuum taps used to balance the throttle bodies. If there is a brass nipple on the other intake, you can attach the hose between them. I prefer using rubber caps on my nipples to completely separate the intakes. What people do with their nipples has been the subject of some debate. There have been some creative suggestions, not entirely technical in nature. No pictures, please! Regardless, the regulator nozzle is open for atmospheric reference and should not have a vacuum applied.

May be an rpm limitation. Even the stock 350w is rated at maximum rpm. Sounds like you've got a good plan!

Lap solder and heat shrink?

Size comparison on this post :MAXI fuse. Stock fuse on the right. ALL your fuses are the larger size? How could that be?

K_Roy has discovered a number of the "short-comings" of the Guzzi design including the alternator function and the way the regulator references voltage, the weak ground path (especially for the regulator). We've long known routing the headlight current through the switch is un-good, but running a direct hot could affect the reference voltage and cause under charging. The relay connections are certainly suspect. I believe in running the very best relays available because it is such a failure prone point in the system. IMO, the small ATC fuse contacts (even in an external holder are just inadequate for the load. I melted or burned up every ATC fuse in three different holders before the MAXI fuse. End of problem. That and, of course, adding the grounds; OMRON relays; stator; regulator; separate power and relays for hi beam, lo beam and each horn; junction blocks for the terminal arrays; servicing, tightening, and sealing every connector . . . For you, the MAXI fuse is still next assuming you've done the grounds.

The relays from pyroDan are shockingly inexpensive and I don't recall any failures reported on the GEI he currently has on offer. The link to the Kiwi_Roy post is for OMRON which are likely "better" relays, but may be overkill and at least double the money.

Got-One: You've got a really nice example of the V11! Go to your profile and edit your year and model. Best feedback on the crossover is to take a clear photo and post it on Technical Topics sub-forum. This is gonna be fun!