docc

Whew! Four hundred bucks. I guess that's not so bad if you're replacing a failed stock item. I wonder if the regulator is up to the extra current? It doesn't even seem happy with what it gets now. BTW: "hl relays" would be headlight relays. I suppose if they have heavier gauge wiring and heavy duty relay contacts, the current draw might be reduced somewhat, but the bulb is still going to get its 55 or 60 watts. Seems like we came up with a running demand of about 170 watts for the V11. I forget the methodology there, and it could be dubious. No doubt, adequate output does come on more like 4,000 rpm if every thing is working well (regulator grounding, healthy 30 amp fuse, quality relays and good connections). Attempting to run Gerbings heated gloves and jacket (22 + 77 = 99 watts) could have been the end of my last regulator . . .

Both the front and rear axle nuts on my Sport are 27mm across and deep enough to take the cover off.

Let's look at your relays and their connections . . .

As if these bikes weren't dicey enough coming out of Mandello, now we're three (or more ) owners on and have dangling wires with sheet metal screws? How to undo what has been done? And begin again . . . Factory had several loop terminals on each of the battery posts. Not that this was a good idea . . .

There is a great thread (back there, somewhere) where one member did some extensive testing on gasket deformation versus the tightening procedure. I think it was Ryland3210 and the conclusions were interesting. From what I recall, the best result was obtained (using a "quality" filter) by tightening one-and-one-eighth turn after gasket contact. It is tighter than I would ordinarily turn a filter up "by feel" but has stood the test of time. +1 here on the WIX. That and not letting your oil level fall even a half liter low are good bearing medicine!

It takes a Special Kind of Guy to get the smoke back in the wires with chicks watching . . .

Make sure there is nothing hanging down on the left side fouling the throttle cable. 27 mm nuts are pretty easy to come by on early Sports: one on the front axle, one on the rear . . .

Somehow your throttle plates have gotten too far open. I would return to the right TB, release the linkage, release the high idle cam (just loosening the cable is not enough), and THEN make sure the idle screw makes no contact. Set the TPS for 150 mV, re-attach the linkage and turn the left hand idle screw until the TPS gives around 525 mV. Air screws should be happy at 1/2 to 1 full turn out, but not idle well or at all closed.

What is the proper libation to drink out of a "Guzzi cup?" Coffee? Lambic? Chicken soup?

I had said to set the closed throttle body TPS at 165 mV, but it truly is 150 as Kiwi_Roy had said. Where did yours end up and what is your TPS mV at idle?

Post back what you find! Just looking, I'm not entirely sure the driveline paint and the wheel paint is the same (?)

So, there! I asked for it, I know.

No one remembers the frog with the goggles? I was thinking the animation was Norwegian, but it has been a long time . . .

I've used Eastwood AlumiBlast and DiamondClear satin clear coat for the alternator cover and various touch ups. It's a tiny bit darker than the factory silver and lacks the very fine metal flake appearance, but certainly works well on the front cover.

I hope she comes back to you with everything that is " . . . the beginning of a beautiful friendship."

I'm thinking the wheels are painted and clear coated. You could take your rear to an auto paint supplier and they can scan it for a match. Is you're just doing touch-up on the red, Testor's Italian Red model paint is a good match, but, apparently, has no hardeners like automotive paint. Halford's Toolbox Red from UK is reportedly quite a good match, but I'm not sure Craftsman Toolbox Red is quite "orange" enough.

Heh - yeah, my Sport just did this to me, too. Turned out to be something really simple. And my own doing. How long since the last complete tune-up?

Still searching for The One:

I cross-posted michael's post to FAQ for future reference. Well done!

Cross-posted to FAQ for safe keeping: Posted Sept. 24, 2013, 12:14 AM by michael8888 Hello tenni green lovers, after years of trying to get the Tenni Green from BASF or Lechler from the code number online with no luck (yes I had friends in england and italy call the companies directly), I sent a new 2002 Tenni fairing to BASF in the US who sent it to Whitehouse Color Laboratory. After over month they match the color and created a formula and code: Fleet Name: Motoguzzi Motorcycle Fleet Color Name: Moto Guzzi Stock#: 907250 the paint is the GLASURIT- 55 FORMULA I also had them match the gray/black used on the bike. Fleet Name: Motoguzzi Motorcycle Fleet Color Name: Moto Text Flat Black Stock#: 907286 the paint is the GLASURIT- 55 FORMULA Glasurit is BASF's best paint and the price is obscene. a pint of each color cost $152.00us for the pair. BASF's tel: 419 877-5308 US your BASF dealer should be able to order the color with the info above. michael

Yeah, since you already have the handle bars modification, I wonder if simply swapping to a different bar that fits what you're looking for would be the simplest?

The Sport developed unstable idle issues yesterday. It reminded me of how it acted before the Low Mass Sensor Modification. Today, I discovered the connector had come unplugged. And also that the sensor holder was loose where it screws into the head. Tightened the holder back down, re-attached the connector and back to goodness! While working up the modification, I had made the catches for the connector less prominent (more angled than squared off) to help getting the connector on and off. I'm thinking I took off too much material and when the holder loosened in the head, the vibration wiggled the connector off. Hey, I know: "I messed with it!" But after three years, and coping with some very high ambient temperatures, the sensor does still work better. If it's connected.

L-Ryter, I would think some kind of weight would be helpful for the vibration damping. The CRG mounting adapter doesn't amount to much and complaints about the original Sport clip-on vibration was significant even with the internal bar weights. If you already have the CRG mounts, consider loading the hollow clip-on with a damping material like lead shot or even BBs. It works better if not packed tight so that the movement between the shot absorbs vibration.

Be careful you don't actually get airborne like a P-51 over the Skyway!

These RhinoMoto adapters seem to be a good solution. I had my stock bar end weights machined to take the CRG. Once you are used to the small image, as you are, I think the CRG work better than stock just because the bar end position does not see mostly your elbows.