docc

Camn, Thanks for posting the links!

It's been a long time, but where is a link to the fun animation that is this character: Somehow, it became the epitome, or representation, of "gremlins" in our V11. Especially the electrical ones! It is such a fun animation along with this one: MOTO GUZZI vs Others.

K'roo - Is that the rod bearings or the rings?

Pronto, It is worth checking your foot shift lever to see if it is moving freely and not binding on its pivot. Otherwise, this sounds like a broken shift return spring. Many posts on "Technical Topics", "Frequently Asked Questions", and "How To . . ." sub-forums. Search by "replies" and post back on this thread what you have found. Welcome to V11LeMans.com!!

The good thing about the snow flying: it's a great time to look back inside that side cover! This will just be a simple click this way or that! Then: you'll be An Expert! (Here, I thought the dots were to point 'at' one another / "align", but it's been a while since I've had my eyes on it . . .)

Sorry, the delay posting back. No, not running: key on, run switch on. Once set, then test idle speed running. Unfortunately, you will only know that result after it is fully warm.

I just had to post this YouTube link again: MOTO GUZZI vs Others It reminds me of pulling up the Lodge and motowfo walks out all cleaned up, "Oh, man, I just got out of the hot tub, a couple drams of single malt! I feel great! You just rollin' in , docc?" EEEEERRRP

The experts disagree on many aspects of this procedure. I would entirely delete the right idle screw (I've done it both ways). It's just one less variable and adds nothing to the betterment. Second, it is really important to set the 165 mV baseline with the right throttle plate entirely closed. Then hook up the linkage and adjust the left idle screw to that 525 mV range and see where she idles with the air screws 1/2 to a full turn. As Hubert says, it should not idle well or at all with the screws closed. The Veglia tachs are commonly 300-500 rpm high, so don't be bashful getting her to idle smoothly halfway between the 1000 and 2000 marks.

With sales tax and special order (freight and wait), the local auto parts store price is $67 US/ 2013. Just placed online order for the K&N CG-9002 for $42.75. I'm not confident in this "million mile" durability. My 10 year old 33-2682 appears to have some weak spots in the foam. I'm hoping the better fitting CG-9002 will hold up better since it's not being crushed 1/8" (3+ mm) every time it gets pushed into the box. For our purposes, it is notable that the K&N application chart does not list the V11 series specifically for the CG-9002.

Jan, I am having trouble seeing the photo very well. Could you post views of the canister and of the crossover? Are there no markings or stampings on the canisters? I am thinking maybe Akrapovic . . .

Still cannot find a US automotive application for the air filter. Yet, it does appear that the better fitting oiled foam alternative is K&N CG 9002. This from Gregory Bender on ThisOldTractor which explains why my 33-2682 gets a little crumpled.

So it is: the K&N 33-2682 fits Fiat Panda (?) 1982-1986, and Fiat 500 and 600 1991-2005 I'll try to walk into the local auto parts store here in the rural US and get a paper filter for a Fiat. If you never hear from me again . . . . you know what happened . . .

Best to start at the beginning: TPS Setup and Throttle balance in FAQ

Failed relay on the Rosso Corsa/ SSRIX: let's call the First (front) Starter Relay. Unfortunately, it appeared the second from the front (Headlamp Relay also did not function. Best candidate to cannibalize (if you have no spares and no friends with spares): the middle relay (called the 'Sidestand Relay, it is actually energized by the Neutral Switch). Roadside no start drill: turn the bars lock-to-lock while activating the starter button, clutch in. If the starter engages, it is likely the clutch switch bullet connectors under the tank. No joy? Swap the front two relays (make sure they are both 5-pin) - if it starts but there is no headlight, the relay you moved to position 2 is bad. If there is any distance to ride, there will be no headlight, no brake light, and no charging. In that case, use the relay from the middle (#3) for the #2 (headlamp) position and start the bike sitting on it with the sidestand up. As Kiwi_Roy has pointed out, if you don't have spare relays you can jumper the sockets. If you have jumper wire, your wits about you, and know which-where to do the jumpering! EDIT: For the record, the bad relays were Tycos.

Interesting, KillBoy's morning started with the sequence (#01-10) of waspp eastbound on his Rosso Corsa chasing us down. The rest of us were about a minute ahead before the camera started rolling. The afternoon actually begins here at #1077 with Warner on that fabulous TL 1000! The last KillBoy pics that day (#1138-1147): docc behind a Harley about 5 minutes behind the Spine Raiders. I just love the way the Guzzi stands its outboard cylinder straight up in deep corner!!

That's quite a compliment! Although we've ridden into North Carolina almost every year and no V11 from there has ever joined us . . . Best of luck making a regular thing people can look forward to. It really is too cool to get a bunch of these bikes together. The sounds alone are fantastic!

Funny you should say that . . . I went to USF (University of Sun &Fun) and have folks in Clearwater. Beer . . . . mmmmmmm! I am vague on that "ground wire", though. Looking up under the starter, can you see a wire connected to the gearbox (neutral switch)? Does the ground come from the regulator case (finned box above the oil cooler)? Oil leak is likely the crankcase vent return. Look with a light on top of the back of the motor (behind the left cylinder above the intake tract) for a big (5/8") hose connection. If it's all funky and nasty, you need a new return line.

The "How To . . ." section is for known and established procedures and explanations. If you have a question or would like to have a discussion about issues with your V11, post a new thread in Technical Topics. It will give your thread the most viewing and interaction. Sure, the "Search function" for your concern could give you the answer, but new discussion is always welcome. Thanks for your cooperation!

I used to label my relays, but took to putting the labels on the bike itself. I also prefer to label the "middle relay" as the Neutral Relay since it is actuated by the Neutral Switch and NOT the sidestand switch.

Hang in there, we'll get through this. Likely it's more than one thing. The Run Switch gets power two ways: through the Sidestand Switch directly when the stand is up (sounds like that part is working), and 2) the Neutral Switch in the left gearbox side plate activates the Middle Relay so the bike will run with the stand down while in neutral. So, "no run" in neutral/ no neutral light: check the connection to the neutral switch under the starter (clean, tighten, dielectric grease in the boot. Otherwise, the Neutral Switch can be removed (easier with the starter out) cleaned with a contact/electrical cleaner, tested for function (pressing the ball in should give continuity on an Ohm meter) or replaced if faulty. The "no starter engagement" can be the Clutch Switch at the lever or it's connectors under the left side of the tank. Put your ear close to the clutch lever and pull it gently. You should here a faint *click* - otherwise, spray the lever-switch interface with a contact cleaner being careful to protect the tank's paint. You can remove the lever for better cleaning, but be ready to catch the tiny ball bearing from the lever housing. If the infamous bullet connectors are the trouble, try thumbing the starter button with the clutch lever in, while rotating the bars lock to lock. If the starter kicks in, it is surely the connectors under the left side of the tank forward along the frame. Clean, crimp, seal. The Starter (forward/first) Relay or it's base connections could also be flinky. Have an assistant attempt the starting drill while you wiggle the relay in its base (it as, for sure, a 5-pin relay?). Most notable, though, you said the headlamp is on when the key is off? I assume you're stopping that by disconnecting the battery? I would definitely begin with inspecting the Ignition Switch for broken wires or some really obvious fault. It is not hard to remove. I looked earlier for Kiwi_Roy's thread on that. but struck out. Search "replies" for ignition switch and I'll do some searching from here also.

LowRyter, glad to hear you're okay and back to OK. Really enjoyed your company and pretty amazing, I think, a flat-lander could launch off into those roads, at that pace, on a V11 Sport! Well done!! I know we teased you a lot about the ticket, but they are always unfortunate. Plead for "online traffic school!" Hope to see you at Barber's Vintage Festival . . .

First thing: Remove the front Starter Relay and replace with a known good one, maybe from the middle position assuming it is also 5 pin. The headlamp should go out, but the bike will have to be started with the stand up if there is no middle relay. Although, hmmmm, headlight on while the key is off sounds like you better take the ingnition switch out for inspection.

So, the "closed" aspect is regarding the coil? The relay is energized when the circuit to the coil is closed. I get that (If you think i got that ) While the Starter Relay is passing current in the N/O state, it is only energizing the coil of the Headlamp Relay, right? So, no significant current there. The energized Headlamp Relay is passing current all the time in the N/C state which would be the higher of the relay ratings, yes? In the OMRON: 20 amps. That would certainly seem adequate as the fuse on that circuit is 15 amps. Mouser shows the "same" relay rated 20/30 amps. Could that be OMRON's high-current version (RH)? And wouldn't it be the penultimate V11 relay (or just overkill)?

Keith, just curious then, how often do you change oil?

Forgive my layman's questions, but the Starter Relay is "normally open" and the Headlamp relay is "normally closed?"