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Everything posted by docc
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That's likely the connection. Can be very frustrating. Pins or sewing needles will likely give better contact than the paper clips. otherwise: Breakout Harness
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The black le mans advertised is a Nero Corsa, nice too. Ah, I see that it is! The gold forks should have been a clue to me . . .
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The OMRON spec sheets make me dizzy. The relays seem to have dual current ratings: 10/20, 20/35. What does it mean?? K_Roy??
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I see this black '04 LeMans and this '03 Rosso Corsa, but not sure I see a Nero Corsa
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It is the Heim Joint: 8mm, right hand thread, male Measurements: 55mm overall length, 8mm opening, with 25mm length of threaded 8mm x 1.25 shaft Amazon - 4 for $25 Ebay LH/RH set $14.99 When I took delivery of my replacement Shindy, it came with a new Heim joints. So, if your Bitubo is "crunchy" your replacement will likely have new joints.
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And so it is: my local O'Reillys man took the time to look through the book for a match. Here's what we found: 1993-1997 Chrysler or GM accessory relay, 30 amp, made in China, 12-14 US dollars in 2013 money. Tax here in Tennessee adds almost 10%, so a set of five is $65.50. K_Roy, which OMRON are you using, the G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12?
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Meters have different ranges. My Triplett's lowest is 200mV which is not high enough, so I use the 2 V range. The clips won't affect the reading. Just make sure you have a good connection and you start with the throttle plate completely closed (linkage disconnected, right idle screw backed out fully, no contact from the high idle mechanism).
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As it turns out, the Tech Sessions at this year's Ninth South'n Spine Raid largely surrounded relays and fuses. Sure there was that late night attempt to fashion a cross-over shim from a Dos Equis bottle cap, but that was really more just late night entertainment. Much discussion has transpired over the years about the V11 relays. Some things are for sure: the original Siemans are not reliable (although there are forum members still running them with no trouble); the front two relays have the most stress; the relay bases, or sockets, can be a source of trouble. I used all my spares to get another V11 re-started and its headlamps/charging circuits back working and am actively looking for new spares. Over the years and 87,000 miles I have run (original) small Siemans, large Siemans, small and large Tycos, Bosch, GEI, and OMRON. While neither the Bosch or GEI gave me any trouble, I was impressed by the comparison posted by forum member Ryland3210 which compares the internals of the GEI and OMRON and discusses the importance of "suppression." [As of 2017: Best V11 Relays: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605] So, Number One: All of us should be carrying spare relays. Probably 3 or 4, but minimum of 2. Number Two: I would really like some technical discussion about the electrical specifications and cross referenced availability. Is there any hope to walk into a Chrysler dealership and come out with a replacement relay? ( like, maybe: OMRON G8H-UA-007001/ Chrysler 3628A23D) ? ?
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Man, it occurred to me that if you were there with us, you would have had extra, caring hands unloading your Coppa. Ramping just scares the ear wax outta me. Keep us posted in Technical Topics on the mods to the headlamp/instruments. Really great to meet you and have not just one , but TWO Coppa Italia at an SSR!
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D - - C, get it? Currently, I am definitely waning. The Scotch is gone. I drank the two shots I owed Bill (I forget for what now . . .) and on to whatever beer is left from lowryter's visit. Trying to re-fit my V11 Rescue Kit with zip-ties, fence wire, light bulbs, spark plugs, fuses, and relays. Lessons learned: never shut a V11 off on a deserted back road without spare relays . . .
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My recollection is that I gleaned the concern for "energy conserving" friction modifiers adversely affecting the rings seating in the bores from generous posts made here by Pete Roper. I wouldn't want to misrepresent what he has said, but that is my recollection. Keith, I wonder if you mean running your Valvoline 4K (4,000) miles not "40K" (40,000) miles ?
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nm, can you post voltages from your battery 1) key on, 2) cranking 3) at idle and 4) at some rpm, say 2500?
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Final count as we gathered Spine Raiders on the North Carolina loop Saturday: 1 '96 Sport 1100 2 '00-'01 Sports 1 '02 LeMans 2 Ballabio 2 Rosso Corsa +2 Coppa Italia 10 Spine Frames! Plus: 2013 V7, Triumph Tiger Beer Scow, VFR, pristine Suzuki TL, ST1300, BMW RSL, and one slightly scuttled Griso. At the thickest point, 15 riders from four states; PERFECT weather (my Sport has never come home this clean)! You know you are with a great bunch of people when they can crash a biker wedding and everyone wakes up friends. Even though the beer is gone. The overwhelming consensus is to include Bill's Griso with the count since he was, in fact, a big part of this ride, made the biggest sacrifice to be there, and rode two full days even though we never saw him. All kidding aside (yeah, like we're going to stop all that now . . . ), Bill had a big presence with us. Certainly, at first with our concerns, but even more as that gave way to all-out trash talk. To all The Raiders of the Ninth Spine, thanks for a great time, super riding , and the cherished friendships! :notworthy:
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Huh - so, but - I see the dielectric grease is 100% silicone and Vaseline is petroleum . . . I've heard said only silicone for brake systems (no petroleum), but in this application is one better?
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Expecting 8 or 9 bikes at the MarcyJo's in the morning headed east. Already, circumstances have conspired to kindle the unexpected. There will probably little connectivity until we return. Wish us all well and that the road will be kind to us all.
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Pretty excited now. Wiped down the Sport, rechecked the routes on the ZUMO, and waiting for LowRyter's green Sport to rumble into the driveway! He's been on the road two days already. First Spine Raid in while that I'm not figuring out what kind of sawdust to put in the reardrive to minimize that embarrassing drip. (Thanks, again, Andy!!)
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Seems that, across the board, vehicle manufacturers have steadily decreased viscosity recommendations even though their engines have not changed. Many would say it is to eek out the smallest improvement in their Corporate Average Fuel Economy measures by minimizing friction. That strategy may be cross purposes with the long term, high mileage owner. Surely, a quality 10W40 would be fine, but avoid friction modifiers. Not sure how that is labeled in the UK, but "Energy Conserving" would be un-good for the Guzzi cylinder walls. Viscosities of 15W40 upward through 20W50 tend to not have these modifiers. The flat tappet cam set-up certainly benefits from a higher zinc/phosphorous content (ZDDP) not so compatible with catalytic converters. 20W50 SG synthetic seems perfect for the V11, but I do live in a hot climate and the bike is not stored or started in low temperatures which might have you running a thinner base oil. A 5 weight base oil in such a big, old donk of a motor seems a bad idea. Fantastic (lengthy, technical) article at Richard's Corvair by Richard Widman. You can always skip to the end of it and look at a list of some of his recommendations. I believe the similarities in the engines we are considering make his opinions quite appropriate. We haven't had a nice oil thread in a good long time, so I figured I'd go for the Big Whammy Post straight away!
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We don't need anything for that 'duty', our women are always ready. Lets face it, you never heard of a Brit getting into an open boat and rowing across the North sea to get to the Viking girls. HA -so, there! Although, figure after about year 800 half the Viking girls were Scottish and Irish!
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Sheesh! That still pushes 20 hours in a Huey, doesn't it?
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Hey, I appreciate that! I've been thinking about doing that list for a while. Almost all that stuff is in other threads and posts that I am continuing to search and link. These bikes just keep getting sweeter the more you love on them!