docc

Most likely pinch point is in the tail cowl where the wiring passes through the mud guard to reach the tail light.

****APPLAUSE******

For a couple Russian stouts to last til fall around motowfo and I, the equinox would have to be tomorrow!

My Sport, at 86,000 miles, continue to make the usual racket, but lately it seems to rattle MUCH more just sitting at idle. I usually have earplugs in, but resetting the idle the other day, the noise got even my attention. What would change in the clutch over the use that would make it rattle more?

waspp - thanks for the road report! I guess there has been a lot of rain this summer and that tends to bring the hillsides down. Very kind, your offer of assistance. Let's hope nobody's shift springs get wind of it and gives them any ideas! Looking forward to seeing that Rosso Corsa!

Another hour slaving over a hot V11: The air bypass screws were not making the difference I expected and the left less than the right as I changed them observing idle speed. I remember cleaning them before and removed them for a look: What one looks like clean: I also sprayed some carb cleaner up into the throttle body through the bypass circuit until black gunk quit running out. Better now! YMMV!

I got thinking about Hubert's (luhbo) post on setting the idle (he has that effect on people!) It occurs to me that the throttle plates should still be in range or not very much over (4.66-5.24 mV). Leon, I suppose you could recheck that very easily. I recall we set yours at 5.25. I suppose I'll back-probe my ECU and see where mine has ended up. Like Hubert, once I got my Sport running well, I try not to mess with it and just ride. (30 minutes later after the back probing failed and probing the connector at the TPS: 448 mV. looks like the camel's nose is under the tent now )

There's a recurring theme here: The Back-to-the-Pub Ride Good craic, indeed!

And the beginnings, what was that like? "I'm drinkin' the next thing that goes bad in that bucket!"

Oh, man - it's all good! Getting ready to ride off to the Appalachians for the Ninth South'n Spine Raid with nothing more to do than a clean and polish (don't wanna bring a ratted-out old dog-eared spine-frame to keep such nice company!) Really, I think I just kept filling the rear drive by "volume" and never realized how much gear oil (especially RedLine ShockProof HEAVYWEIGHT) stays clinging to all those surfaces. I over filled, then every thing that could go wrong: did. Moral of the (long, drawn out, aggravating, expensive) story: don't over fill!

Done on the bike, or removed? I didn't know aluminum could be "magnafluxed." I thought there had to be iron . . .

One month out! This year- The Proper Use of Ethanol for Moto Guzzi . . . and a selection of some of the best roads and best folks in Tennessee/North Carolina !

So, how about a few pics; a little ride report, 5 or 6 Guzzis? What?

One of the neatest options threaded here on V11Lemans.com: SpeedHut Speedo requires a sending unit in place of the angle drive. There have been a couple alternatives that are reported to work. Clocks Change Out thread post referencing the combo guage

Hubert, Good call on checking the electrical connections. They looked good on my Sport, but sprayed some silicone grease there as well. I remember gstallons being emphatic about not using petroleum around braking systems, so I used Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant and silicone spray lubricant in the lower boot. Added this procedure to the "Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist!"

Haven't looked in there for a while. Ew: nasty. Piston returns ok, but time for a clean up and some silicone lubricant. Thanks for heads-up!

Fantastic!

I think those red mouthed bells are the ram air?

WooHoo! 5 bids, 4 days out!

I don't think the Teflon will sustain the exhaust temps. But others will chime in who know best.

Haha - I lent some assistance to a stranded rider the other night (rather late) as his tail lights had gone out on his Honda. As we went about looking for parts, he wondered why my Garmin GPS was speaking Spanish. "It's Italian," I told him. "My bad" he says, but never asks "Why?" is why!

That was fun!!! american English is so dull : (

Leon, Good news all the way around! Its fine now to use the idle speed adjustment screw on the left TB to adjust the idle and reset the air bleed screws for balance. Mine have always been happiest at a full turn out especially in high ambient temperatures. Now . . . about that beer . . .

Aye, and then so: here again - "sloe" isn't "slow", no? So, what would make the gin "sloe?"

Those of us with the early Sports 1999-2001 have a tank with the fuel pump external and a foam "chin pad" on the top of the tank. It's held on with a pair of steel ball inserts that capture into rubber oval grommets attached to the tank top. After strapping down a tank bag for over ten years, the chin pad's inner structure deformed and it no longer captured well in the grommets. I've heard of them going missing and "re-contoured" (bent) the pad back to a better fit. While removing the filler cap ring to touch up its finish scratched from fuel nozzles, I discovered the front chin pad nut had detached from the pad leaving only the one fastener to keep it (from going missing). I've attempted to recapture the nut with a contact adhesive and RTV silicone while the paints cure on my filler ring. Just a "heads-up" on checking your chin pad connection to be sure yours doesn't go missing!