docc

I can run, but I can't hide: I AM the bone fide authority on leaking rear drives. I have diligently sought out every known method to make one leak. You just can't argue with two years of successful leaking. Andy, The P'ffesser His-Own-Self, will always be the last word on making The Bad Leak stop. Check out the thread and update in Technical Topics "Rear Drive Seal"

Good advice on the "gentle" valve lash and rebalance the throttle bodies. I have always found more stable idle in hot ambient temperatures with the air bleed screws at one full turn. I know that would be theoretically leaner, but I've tried them everywhere and always end up back at one full turn. Those are the simplest things worth trying. There is a mod to the head temp sensor that is somewhat controversial, but worked for my Sport in the 90-95˚F (40˚C) temps here in the sunny/muggy USA south.

After fighting rear drive leaks for two years, I have grown unafraid to let my oil level down a little. The V11 Bevel drive has 100 ml more capacity than the earlier drives.

Looking forward to those pics! Welcome to the forum! Tell us more about your Sport.

Have you tried turning the bars lock to lock while pulling in the clutch lever and pressing the starter button?

Dan is unbeatable. A real stand-up guy. His relays are GEI. I think I got the OMRONs from MotraTech.

Biggest problem could be that it doesn't have enough miles, so you'll have to get to work on that right away! Give her a good tune-up, keep your engine oil topped up, wear tires out. (Just a gentle correction on the bullet connectors under the left side of the tank: they are for the clutch switch and may keep the starter from engaging if loose or corroded)

Camn, yes the Headlight Relay gets its current from the normally open position of the (middle) Starter Relay. And, as you say, not just the tach, but headlight, horn, stop light, warning lights, and charging reference. I wonder if the tach is the most sensitive to low or fluctuating voltage and may show a problem before the lights go out (?) Gusse, the Bosch I have (from PyroDan Pruneske) are 0 332 207 307. I am not sure the difference between them but good if they are all 5 pin so they can be switched around if needed.

The tachometer gets its feed through the Headlight Relay (#2) second from the front. Fitting a new Bosch, or switching to OMRON, may solve the problem. Be certain the base connectors are tight.

Apparently, the 2005-2006 Scura R was the last of the V11. There may have been some Coppa Italia in both 2004 and 2005. Pity we don't have all the production numbers . . .

That's a good idea!

Hi, big j: (edit): Thanks for the reply below. I gather you''re fettling a Griso. They look like a ripping good time! If get a minute, update "My bikes" in your profile. (You still have the V11 back in Ireland?)

Mitch, I'm thinking the 2002 LeMans had a pair of clip-ons for "handlebars." Do you need all the switch gear as well? I recall there's breaker in UK that has handled a lot of Guzzi in the past. Some of our UK members will chime in and help you find it. Welcome to the forum! Keep us posted on your progress and questions!

Alloy seat hump, too?

Nice Sport!! looks like all alloy body parts (?)

3,5 liter sump capacity (3.72 US quarts). Not sure the filter and its plumbing would hold a half liter. If you're going to change the oil without the filter, recheck the level on the dip stick when hot and top up. I like my level a bit on the high side.

I would have gone for "the one on the bottom" to drain the most oil from the pan. It is the bolt with the smaller head.

Ken, you're in luck as that is a common problem with an easy fix. You probably don't need a wiring harness and even if you did, it could have the same problem. Under the tank on the left side of the frame just behind the steering head are two bullet connectors that harness the clutch switch. The starter will not engage unless the clutch is disengaged. Those connectors are notorious for corroding and loosening up. Once accessed, clean them (Caig De-oxit is amazing), tighten them, and seal them either with some dielectric grease (or Vaseline) or heat shrink tubing (I use both). Make sure the clutch micro switch is clean and makes an audible little *click* when the lever is pulled. Keep us posted!

I think it is excellent and very extraordinary that a gear would be made for the problem. Amazing, really!

With Dave's bike showing up all over ebay, it sure makes me glad he's ok. (Glad you're ok, Dave!) Sad indeed to see such a nice V11 broken up. It was such a special bike in so many ways.

I believe that is correct. The Rosso Mandello was the only other model in those years (2001), but is only different in the body parts and paint finishes AFAIK. The wiring should work for you, but I see the relays are sold separately. I do suppose both the electrical harness and the ignition harness are included, but not the coils and plug wires (separated). It seems there are various other connections and components separated. I noticed the sidestand wiring separate. Worth scrolling through the sellers other postings to see what might have been separated.

That wasn't a bad description at all. I've never noticed the change in the tail section, apparently also in '02. It must have a different part number. My 2000 compartment has a soft vinyl fabric liner which encloses the compartment, so I've not ever noticed pieces could escape into the hollow. Learn something here everyday! EDIT: The only part number I have is the 2002 tail: 01 57 31 60. The Stein-Dinse diagrams show that the 99-01 tail differs, but I can't seem to bring up a part number for it or the bag-like insert.

Not sure why the factory flipped it over (in '02, yeah?). Certainly some early seats ('99-'01) smashed down on the connector wiring. What do you mean by the "more shell like tail section?"

That was cruel. I had to make an extra pot of coffee to keep looking. (Dave's 2000 harness is correct for the 2001. Unfortunate that someone is breaking it that doesn't know anything about it. For example, you can bid on half of a drive shaft )

Mine was . . .