docc
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Everything posted by docc
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Same here at 41,000 miles. Sheesh - I should probably check mine again! Thanks for heads-up!
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Some US Sports came with the CO factory set as low as -27. Andy set mine to 0 (I think he was using VDSTS, and while the exhaust analyzer was attached, we just set to 0) Talk about a difference one setting can make!
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The factory snorkels do face down toward the cylinders. I have always held the opinion they were exclusively to damp noise for emissions drive-by testing and have always run without them. I could be all wrong about that, yet do like the full frontal area of the air box intakes without the restrictors.
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My V11 Sport once had a twelve speed, but that's counting all the extra neutrals . . .
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Dude - you have a Norge, a Ballabio, TWO Centauro, two Calis, AND an Eldo? :notworthy:
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The "world spec" is likely in mm, but I've never set valves in metric. I think that might be 0,15mm/0,20mm.
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As I recall, 0.006" intake/ 0.008" exhaust. YRMV (Your Recollection Might Vary)
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Having just fitted my 25th rear tire, it's always fun to try and impress admirers of the Sport telling them it has almost 85,000 miles on it. But the real hero: andy york's '02 LeMans with it's original speedo:
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I only mentioned the "energy conserving oils" after paying heed to Pete Roper's comments about those effects on the cylinder surface. (Sorry about paraphrasing my impression here). As I recall, oils in viscosity at or over 15w-40 will not be "energy conserving." Certainly not the 20w-50 stuff. Oil IS important - especially keeping it changed and keeping it topped up. Don't let your oil level get low!
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I decided to pin this, at least for now. It might move, later, to "How To." The TPS is a key interface with the V11 state of tune and this is an excellent way to access, especially for the later models with the ECU connector facing down. Thanks danl !
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I think you should put some miles on it and come to the Ninth South'n Spine Raid just over the mountains in Tennessee! Between now and September you should be able to get her all sorted so it's less likely we'd be putting tools to her in the parking garage. Although, that's an option, too!
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Yes. There are many good ones. "V-twin" oils are usually SG (high zinc and phosphorus); avoid "energy conserving" oils.
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Here is a brief tutorial on Crabbing the Spine Frame. It can be done! Measure your swingarm offset BEFORE you remove the pins. (don't ask me how I know . . .
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Love the last line in the article; could be Moto Guzzi's tag line: "Stay Tuned . . ."
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Great price for an RC!
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xroads, Not to take anything away from the guys who have had good results from the PC, and now the excellent work Paul has given us, but there are those among us who have had very good results with the V11's factory tuning parameters. For me, it took a few "tune-ups" to get the results. If you can dope F-class you can tune your Guzzi. Once you've mastered the factory settings and you are still not satisfied, there are these other options which many here will continue to help with. (ie: when you're not grouping, the answer is probably not changing optics.)
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HA, zman, I'll bet that cafe sport sounds pretty good on the acoustics of that hardwood floor!
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It would be good to recheck the temp after the bike has been moving or with a fan flowing air over it. The snorkels will pick up engine heat in still air. Perhaps checking the variable resistance of the TPS. When mine went bad I couldn't find it watching millivolts, but it showed a stick-and-jump in resistance as I slowly opened it and closed it.
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I replaced mine with a Japanese made Shindi sourced from MI in Seattle.
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Is there not an O-ring for that junction? is it both injectors?
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I would venture that the veranda at Walt's cabins in the Appalachians would be a fine place to carry on an interesting discussion on those (complex) topics. But probably not here, if I may politely suggest. But, ya'll come now, y'hear?
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'dog, How would you describe the changes with the crossover?
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Preemptive Shift Return Spring and Pawl Arm Replacement
docc replied to sp838's topic in Technical Topics
others have more experience with this than I, but at least sweep the bottom of the gearbox for bits. Use a quality sealant on the cover going back on clean the neutral switch while you're looking at it. Otherwise, this should be really straight-forward. Best of luck! -
Must agree with mznyc: the pre-selector adjustment doesn't seem to have solved any major issues. Mine ended up with a complete gearbox replacement under warranty. Not long after, the early gearboxes were recalled for several corrections including the "sliding dogs" and the "washer stack" or, what was it called . . . "cush drive?" (not to be confused with the cush drive of the rear bevel drive). You will need to verify the recall work has been performed on your gearbox.
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Walt (The Lodge at Tellico) says there are 8 rooms available for the 13-14 of September. Bill and I have two of them. Best to let him know if you're on for the lodging!
