docc

So, what does the bike actually do? Not start, stall, not restart, stumble, whiffle through the tulgey wood, burble as it comes?

I thought where you are in NL, not Holland, but . . . NL. I'll have to re-watch the educational video and take notes.

Fabulous! Well done on the progress. Hard part's done, yeah?

WHAT? The Guzzi Shop Manual - "sketchy?!"

Absolutely great advice here: Service the linkage, bleed the clutch fluid, and change the gearbox oil BEFORE you take the gearbox apart or change its adjustments. (OH! make sure the foot lever is not hitting the "pork chop" frame side plate on the up stroke. That hasn't been mentioned lately.)

What does it look like for the 160?

Sitting in traffic heats the gearbox as heat rises from the exhaust cross over. Some have found using RedLine ShockProof gear oil to be helpful. And no dis-assembly required!

My first thought when I read it was: apparently lack of practice HA - yeah, I couldn't figure out that one bolt.

Ha- I never worried about it until I took my tank off a couple years ago and couldn't get it back on . . .

And there it is on one of the spokes, left side: "mt4.50x17dot e." Learn something here everyday! Otherwise, pulling a tape across shows an outside measurement at the corner of the rim of about 5". I suspect the 5.5 would look about 6" at the outside edges.

g'ohc: Not sure which finish is on yours. If you don't mind, go to your profile and add the year to your V11. (For that matter, I wouldn't mind also seeing the year on your VFR!

Roy, How could those paths be verified?

Checking the battery voltage with a digital meter would be helpful. Otherwise, turn the bars fully left and right thumbing the starter. If it bumps, there is a connection problem with the clutch switch wiring.

Good advice there from Gene on the best lube. And yes, when the rotors can "center up" there is less judder. It's one of the sources of what many would say are "warped rotors." The other two are sticking caliper pistons and uneven impregnation of pad material onto the discs.

Best regards to a fine fellow!

Nice comparison here of the difference in the Red Frame Sport Stucchi and the screen on the Rosso Mandello (was that made by Givi of carbon fiber?) I don't think I've ever actually seen a Scura. Not that I'm afraid of the dark . . .

The rear disc does not float, the rear caliper slides on a pin which should be kept clean. Some say lube it lightly (I use a thin coat of waterproof grease), others (BMW owner's manual for the 325i auto) say no lube on the pins. The front rotors are "semi-floating" so there isn't any play in the buttons (sometimes called spindles). The rotor will shift on them under force which is why I use the rubber mallet to bump it around a bit. Using a spray solvent will help get the gunk out. I've used a little BreakFree CLP on each in the past, but even the slightest amount will try to sling out onto the braking surface. Very much of that and you're half way to a bad day!

Hmm, mine pings less without the ethanol even with 89.

Steve, I believe they mount just like the early Sports: through to a threaded hole in the headlamp bolts and two brackets to the pinch bolt on the top triple clamp.

In all fairness, the tabs only broke off the Arai side plates after a few years. I abandoned using solvents (isopropyl alcohol) long ago in favor of a mild mixture of soap, water, and white vinegar. The alcohol tended to discolor the faceshield, yet the tabs only broke off the side plates attempting to remove them for a shield change or thorough cleaning. I understand Arai's policy has been that that they will not build a modular helmet.

So, still some question, then: what is a 2002 "Sport?" Has handlebars (not "clip-ons)? Headlight and instruments mounted to the frame (not the forks?) There are braces coming forward of the side plates to the lower rear of the engine? More smooth semi-gloss (or fuzzy, bubbly flat) black engine paint)? That would all make for a second generation frame and the 5.5" rear rim with a more "relaxed" steering geometry. Any of the good sport-touring tyres will serve well. Again, a lighter, quicker feel with the 170.

A 2002 Sport? That could be a 1999-2001 version with 4.5" rear rim delivered with 170/60-17 or the "next gen" with 5.5" and a 180 section. So many have discovered that dropping a section size for their rim width gives better handling, that tire size may be more important than the specific brand. That said, I do like the Angels.

After several Shoei and several Arai, I started using a Shoei Multi-tech last year. I really like the ability to flip it up to fuel, speak (listen), and generally get my kit around. I might ride just a short piece down the road with it up, but really don't feel so safe with my face out. It is more noisy than the Arai, and a very little heavier. But I got tired of the stupid side plates breaking on the Arai.

The needle I ended up with is made to pierce rubber seals with a sharp point. I ended up truncating the the shaft (cut it off) and deburred it, to then press the ball into the Zerk and pump in the grease (of your choice). Again, early Sport. No idea why they are so much less accessible than after 2001.

I mostly stay away fro the Harley guys cause I don't want to find out what "or something" means . . . I make an exception for Harley chicks, though. And gladly step up to help them get their ignition switches connected.