docc

I feel like I let it go too long this time: about 25,000 miles after my spring change/sideways-fork-rebuild in 2008. If I can suck it out from the bottom (where the action is) I think this might be an OK expedient. Otherwise, I don't think I've changed much just changing the oil around the spring. Maybe it'll mix itself around, but looks like better method to remove the bottom bolt and drain it all. At least that can still be done without releasing all the kit from the triple trees.

HA - no insult taken. I realized from the start that this was a bit of a bodge. I suppose I'll let it circulate for a while and pull the lower bolt (now that we all know about the SET SCREW that's not in any of the diagrams). I'm thinking I should probably change the fork oil every other front tire (about 14,000 miles). It still looks like it could be siphoned out of the actuating rod.

So, no clever shortcut . . . Traxxion Dynamics sells a Fork Bleed Tool that looks like it screws on to the cartridge activating rod. Seems like a guy could just fit a tube to it and suck the fluid out from the bottom. I couldn't get down past the spring base by inserting a tube from the top (about 2/3 of the way down).

What was it blocked with?

I can appreciate the proper method to change fork oil is to remove them. I have done it that way, but it's a PIA especially on the early Sport where the absolutely everything up front mounts to the triple clamps. So, I thought I would be creative while the front wheel is off for a tire and open the forks on the bike, siphon out the fluid, cycle the cartridge and give it some fresh juice. I knew I wouldn't get all the fluid out this way (or sediment in the very bottom), but I figured it's better than no fluid change at all and thought if I do it more frequently, it's going to add up. I was disappointed that the refill to 100mm air gap was only about 200ml. After doing the compression side I measured the recovery volume and see more like 300 ml . . . So, first, I'm afraid the oil level is going to drop as the forks cycle (?) And, second, instead of using a tube inserted in the upper housing (about a foot/ 310 mm), can fluid be siphoned out through the cartridge rod thereby getting nearer the very bottom of the reservoir?

. . . I'm only having problems with the bike running poorly when I sit at a stop light and I notice the AFR is over 15. It quickly gets running fine again once I get moving and get the AFR in the 13-14 range.

From the filler at the top to the nipples? Try compressed air - should be clear - both tracts.

The only things I inherited from my Scottish sires are a bristly attitude and a taste for liquids smacking of gearoil and gunpowder. Best of luck Bert. Maybe she just wants to stay home with you!

Isn't that a 2002 color? Could be a "transition model " aka leftover, which would raise concerns for bubbly driveline paint and fragile pawl spring. If the engine paint is smooth and tight, then it made the '03 cut. From his description, looks like you could be owner #4 on this one, too! Interesting windshiel spoiler.

I used the "Y" because it required less hose and provided simpler routing (it's tight under there!) Dangerous, on the thread sunscription, go to Muthaof all Forums and post on the Forum Update thread. Paul and Jaap are both working through the refinements and observations.

Did you ever find out where that washer goes? I'm also having similar speedo problems. I have the gearbox angle drive apart and in addition to the problem areas you mention I notice the inner dia. of the brass bushing is pretty well worn. It's actually oval shaped and about .015 in out of round. I'm sure the would have something to do with needle wobble. My bike has 43k miles. I think it would probably be worthwhile for me to make a new sleeve for the bushing. Turns out the Shnoor washer was not part of the speedometer drive at all. I believe it is missing from one of the four fasteners holding the calipers. Now, if I could just find where I stored it and return it to its rightful place. . . .

I "Y" mine together close to the tank. They are alittle fiddly to get on, but either one could spew fuel. The drain certainly catches any overflow from a fill-up.

Konnstantin, a Happy New Year to you as well! Surely, your Guzzi does not leak from all those gaskets? How many Km on the engine?

Yet, truly, there have been different reports of fill volume from empty. Some could be from when we decide to stop pumping as the filler neck extends into the tank a bit. Upright or side stand affects fill volume. Certainly, a lot of variation if you simply insert the nozzle rely on the automatic shut-off. The tank was billed as 5.8 US gallons, but I'm out of fuel at 5.1. The "tip-slosh" technique could get you a short piece further down the road (get off the sputtered-out Guzzi and tip it as deeply to the left as you are able and slosh some of the fuel out of the right side. The closed loop fuel injection will immediately begin pumping unused fuel back into the right side trap. My theory is use use as much throttle as possible in this circumstance to minimize the number of strenuous "tip-slosh" sessions on my way to redemption.

Yeah, the early tanks trap a lot of fuel on the right side.

Veglia (white face) or ITI (black face)? Seems like the speedometer/odometers should function entirely independently from the tachometer (rev counter)?

Yo - Oregon is not a third world country (or is it???) Just kidding - the V11 are fabulous, enjoy "owner involvement" and beg for a test ride. Make sure it is a dance you love to dance. Ride heights and saddles can be adjusted/changed to some degree . . .

Great news, buddy! Happy Holidays!!

I tried before, here in the States, to find the red Champion caps with no luck outside the Moto Guzzi parts network. I forget how much they cost like that. The parts are made in the UK and cost me around $28US for the pair,shipped, and got them in five days (amazing!). Unfortunately, the link is eBayUK and doesn't figure to last: Lambretta Anti-Vibration Waterproof Champion Red Rubber Spark Plug Cap

Having shared my spare resistor with a friend needing one from a fall, I thought it would be good to source some replacements. It's always good to have a spare plug and cap on board just in case. During my plug change, I split one of my original Champion boots using plug wire pliers. I think I have made the rubber very soft over time using dielectric grease inside the boot. I was pretty jazzed to find exact replacements as Lambretta parts on eBay and had them really quickly from Welsh Scooter Parts, Newport UK. A couple years ago, chasing my Nasty Hiccup, I found one of my plug resistors at 5,000 ohms and the other at 20,000 ohms. I'm thinking the state of tune is improved when they are the same and correct. There were quite a few other contributors to the hiccup (erratic engine popping/ misfire), but the spark plug cap resistance is something simple to check during a plug change.

Sounds like you're making great progress on the Guzzi! It would be good to see just a little more voltage (+ 0.3-0.5), but that may show up in the loom grooming over the winter. Cast a jaundiced eye on your 30 amp regulator fuse. How do you figure the fueling is leaner in cold temps? My Sport drops fuel economy in cold temps about 10%. Seems like denser air would support more fuel?

71F at the head? The motor had been sitting for hours?

Si, caro dottore: non so che. No need to thank me ... I live to serve. Bill Yer funny. Where I come from that translates, "I like you already!"

The voltage is regulated at 5 Volts as you say. Perhaps the injectors are a bit slugish in opening with low voltage. Cliffs MyECU takes Voltage into account but I don't know about the stock unit. One things fairly certain the mixture seems to be Voltage related. It's very strange for sure. As it turns out, I went over some rough railroad tracks too fast last night, and everything went crazy then. The bike WAS running flawlessly up to that point. After the tracks, voltage started swinging between 12.5V and 15.1V at cruising speeds, headers started glowing bright red, and the engine was popping and pinging. I then ran the diode tests on the regulator, and was getting an OL reading when I had one of the yellow wires in a certain position. Thanks to Kiwi Roy, he gave me some great info, and I did end up ordering the Electrosport ESR510 regulator, and it should be delivered on Saturday before the snow falls. I just need to figure out if the bad running is caused by the old regulator, or if some bad connection caused the regulator to go bad, and will keep causing problems down the road... I did hook up the VDST to the bike afterwards, and the air temp was 83f (engine temp was the same IIRC). It was only 42f outside, but I'm guessing the engine heat got to the sensor since it was sitting parked in the garage. An hour later with a box fan blowing on the engine, the air temp was down to 61f, and the engine temp was at 71f. Maybe I should remove the air temp sensor from the air box, and put it further away from the engine? I would think as long as the bike is moving, the sensor should be ok in the air box. Is that air temperature or :engine: temperature?