docc

Taking this thread back on topic . . . When you can (if you will), @swooshdave, work your magic on mySport:

Okay, I see that in your spec sheet link as the ninth group down, but not the last. Is part number 1 901 355 975 correct for all positions under the relay? [edit: It appears the three connections next to one another are more likely 4.8 mm while the other two parallel connections are the 6.3mm . . .] 1 901 355 975 - Cable Connector

When my Bitubo leaked, I went without it for a while, but found I liked a little assistance (resistance?) in tight steering lock during parking maneuvers. The likelihood that a V11 would throw a wobble/tank slapper is rather slim. Lots of members have removed theirs with no ill effects. Too much damping and the V11 (especially the early ShortFrame) can suffer from high speed weave (very different from "wobble"). The early Sports were known for this and my dealer advised to set the damping to minimum. [edit: I found the weave to be multi-causal and solved it with suspension changes, sag set-up, tire type/pressure selection. Very early RedFrames had carry-over triple trees that can be problematic.] HyperPro offers a selection of dampers that fit (I'll look for that thread). We have another, highly contentious, one thousand three hundred seventy-two posts/ 115 page thread that ended locked, a member ejection, two other members leaving, and the forum being put on probation. We are passionate beings about things like damping, you know . . .

I can't see that the last entry on that product sheet is the correct female spade sockets that lock into the relay block. Perhaps the eighth line? Flachsteckhülse (blade receptacle) 6,3 0,8 1,0 – 2,5 CuZn/blank 100 8 784 477 008

That color combo always gets me thinking of putting a leather seat on my Sport and mounting a Stucchi flyscreen in that delicious "Tenni" green . . .

Who has a source for the correct female electrical connectors that lock into those blocks?

Specific seal damage/tear on the Metri-Pack 3-position connector seal from my TPS next to a new seal (the damaged seal on my TPS Casper's Breakout Harness looks similar):

There are those of us who are such fans of what Caig DeOxit® does for connectivity across fuses, relays, switches, and connectors. Yet, as @PJPR01 recently pointed out, connector seals can swell and tear from DeOxit exposure. Specifically, the green Metri-Pack seal on the V11 TPS and the Casper's TPS Breakout Harness. But also the yellow TE AMP SuperSeal connectors in the rest of our wiring harness(es). See how this 5-position AMP connector seal swelled after exposure to DeOxit? Once the tank was back on, that connector was not connected and the tank had to come back off and the connector compressed with a clamp, then "zip-tied" to make connection . . . I plan on replacing the seals at next "tank off." Yet, the seals are not available separately. The TE/AMP connectors are available from various suppliers including Gregory Bender. Buy the connector, slip off the seal as a replacement. See the link, above, for sources of the TPS 3-position "Metri-Pack" connector/seal. Otherwise, be aware that while Caig DeOxit® is electron-magic, it will swell these seals and make them vulnerable to tear and possibly interfere with the connector reliably engaging/connecting.

I couldn't find this relay mount on Greg Bender's site, but did find that he offers individual TE AMP SuperSeal connectors, from one to six positions, for those of us who may need to replace damaged seals. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_close_outs.html

@LowRyter don't drive too fast now . . .

As frustrating and maddening as the TPS setting (and even a GuzziDiag connection) can be, throttle body balance on a V11 is a satisfying delight. Right up with pulling the feeler gauge through for the perfect valve clearances.

The manual says to balance with them closed. I finally went with the theory that balancing at "some rpm" (like 3000) it's fine to leave them open then use them to make the final balance at idle, if necessary. Of course my theories have been lacking before . . .

Changed your topic title and moved this thread for better viewing and replies, @JimM . . . Collapsed lifter? Hoping for better qualified members to chime in on this model (1999 Cali EV) . . .

I checked my records and those are the actual ones I got (Part Number: 01114390). Cheaper now than they were last year . . . .

My last ones came from here: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=94

I mean, it's still no Ballabio, @Bill Hagan . . . Yet . . . I'm havin trouble feelin' sorry for ya. (Ya had me goin' with the whole Norge thing . . . )

In my industry, we get to charge extra if we document in Latin, along with an alphanumerical code. I tried something in Greek once, but got slapped, she told her dad, and I had to leave town . . .

And enough of this "hippo skull" talk! Chicks dig these things like nothing else . . .

Not sure where your fuel supply goes off the fuel tap, downward like that . . . More commonly, that line goes forward to the fuel pump (sometimes to the filter first):

The brass nipple at the left front is for the crankcase vent off the banjo bolt at the front top of the spine frame behind the headset. Square hole at the right front is for the air temperature sensor. You'll have to find where that has been put and put it back.

Greek, Latin . . . same thing.

At one time my Sport was on an Exhaust Gas Analyzer and the target air-fuel ration was correct when the CO Trim was set to zero. Remember that every time the V11 is started, regardless of temperatures, the ECU runs a rich map for a set number of revolutions. I forget the exact number, but over 4,000. The CO Fuel Trim only is active below 3,000 rpm and has its greatest effect at idle and very low throttle openings.