docc

I didn't care for the Terblanche Guzzis either, but think they may have used the presentation as sort of an electroshock therapy for the minds of Guzzisti everywhere. Along with a shrill cry to all those who would never stop at the Guzzi display or browse a Guzzi page.

Of course, the bike is spectacular! But . . . taking a picture of it with a car of the same colour in the back drop with its bonnet propped up has to be bad JujU We will have to collectively quaff good ale to ward off the aspersions. For Jaap, we will all need to come together on this. I pledge my part! (PS: I do like the lines Keith added: very clean!)

Ha, I remember having an affliction with ALFA Romeo. Those wonderful folks said it stands for "Always Looking For Another." I have no idea why I keep looking for one other machine to license, insure, change oil, sort out . . . "affliction" I think. One thing I've learned about Guzzis these many years: if I don't like the picture, the bike in person may be stunning. If I love the pictures, the bike could disappoint. Trouble is, here in Lower Middle Tennessee, it could be 2017 before I ever actually see one of these. I'm depending on you guys to go where us Old Gits can't go. The Victory line is very interesting, I think. But no way it's character will compare to anything Guzzi will give us. Moto Guzzi has consistently given us rider's bikes. An experience and a connection beyond just a product or a "look." Even after over twelve years and 84,000 miles, my Sport has an intoxicating character. Guzzis are like that. What is Italian for that "Je ne sais quois?"

Thanks, Pete, for the link and the report. Amazing to me that Guzzi has used the same tank on the Cali series for twenty-five years. I'm not a tear-drop tank fan and have been looking forward to what's next. After all, the Italians especially have been known for some voluptuous tank shapes; something that makes you want to climb on behind. This 1400, while being most 'modern' and 'stylized,' isn't what I had in mind. Makes me want a Cali Vintage even more. Or a funky, old Eldorado . . .

I'm not sure what the light system means on your charger. Do you have a digital volt meter? Set for 20 Volts DC. Check static (after sitting). Turn the key on with the hi-beam headlamp for three minutes: recheck voltage. Start and check voltage at idle and at, say, 2500 or 3000 rpm. You can also watch voltage as the starter turns over. Let's see what you get! Finally got to checking voltage. Had to replace meter as it was reading 30v which had to be wrong With new digital meter static is 12.8. While starting 9.8. Running at 3000 rpm 13.5 All ok? 12.8 is the correct voltage for an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery (12.84 vDC). It might be good if your starting voltage were up to 10.5. Good time to clean all the connections to the starter including the battery cables and tighten all these down. The starter and its solenoid can be serviced by dismantling , cleaning with electrical cleaner and using grease on the sliding parts and connections. 13.5 is certainly low for charging voltage. It could be as simple as grounding the regulator or replacing the 30 amp fuse (prone to melting). Or become more a problem with the regulator or the yellow wires that break coming from the stator. Kiwi Roy has done some great posting on all of this and this problem can be fixed.

True, my Sport lost a rear engine seal at 4000 miles and oiled the clutch - new seal, clutch and pressure plate under warranty. Yet, it was really easy to see/hear/feel the engine over-rev as the clutch slipped. Certainly, your description that "the engine revs up quicker than the driveshaft can respond" does smack of a slippy clutch from a bad seal. I understand there are three: the typical rear engine, front gearbox, but also a small seal for the clutch actuator. No drip from the bottom of the bell housing?

That sounds like a fueling issue. +1 - Perhaps a good indication for a thorough tune-up (valve adjustment, plugs, TPS/ idle set, throttle body balance). Worth a try!

+1

Which Redline did you go with, strawberry (heavy) or blueberry (light)?

And you mean "English" in the very broadest sense of the term? (Of course, there is British English, American English, Australian English, Canadian English, New Zealand English, and the kind of "English" you get when Italian manuals are *translated*)

I do believe the neutral switch can be changed without removing the side plate of the gearbox, only the starter. Again, some have found joy cleaning them with a solvent while working the switch in and out and, also, changing gear oils (to Redline as I recall.) Otherwise, fitting a new neutral switch is no big deal and pretty common. Make sure the middle relay or its contacts aren't also dodgy. +1 on keeping the sidestand switch. Cleaning it with some contact cleaner while working it in and out and forcing a bit of dielectric grease around the actuator keeps them reliable. Make sure the adjustable bolt that presses the actuator comes in good contact and is not bent.

I've (thought I) wanted a lot of different bikes over the years, but the idea of having an Eldorado never goes away. The idea vacillates between rat-bike, nice original, and fully restored, but just won't leave me alone. Looking forward to watching this story unfold!

Thanks Docc, that is the V11 frame and plates in the photos. The Centauro lurks in another corner of the workshop, awaiting its fate As the V11/V10 hybrid will be the road bike, it will probably end up as a track day special..... Hell, there's plenty of winters to fill up with projects! Interesting, this looks like an early, unbraced short frame, but not red. I thought these were only on the Rosso Mandello, but not with those side plates. Did you paint or powder coat the frame black?

No one in his right mind wants the last and only V11 running in the world!

Neat project! What a great motor and thanks to Umberto Todero. Gritman, What is that black frame with the red sideplates? From the Centauro?

I'm not sure what the light system means on your charger. Do you have a digital volt meter? Set for 20 Volts DC. Check static (after sitting). Turn the key on with the hi-beam headlamp for three minutes: recheck voltage. Start and check voltage at idle and at, say, 2500 or 3000 rpm. You can also watch voltage as the starter turns over. Let's see what you get!

I thought that is the spring that always breaks. I've got a shard of one hanging on the wall here in the shop.

Definitely, sounds like you could have lost a sensor. Ambient air temp sensor is easy to check and replace. This is usually in the airbox. Has yours been moved?

Onibaka, that is a very beautiful V11! You will love it! Many of us have bought sliders from Joe Kenny in Virginia, USA. Very good work. Yes, the 12.8 charging voltage is low. Tighten the battery terminals well and put a ground wire on the regulator (Grounding Voltage Regulator). Also, check the 30 amp fuse under the seat for signs of heat. 1200 rpm is good for idle speed. No more. Check oil bike upright, stick screwed all the way in, and keep the level at the top. Some say just above is good. Many ways to keep a V11 and many opinions here are different. But these are very good people and very helpful. Your Moto Guzzi will get better and better!

Thanks to V11Brad for posting this. My 2000 Sport had this same issue. When the caps are loose for an oil change, pull up and down on the internal assembly. There should be no play. If it clicks up and down, your internals are not seated in the recess. Even with no play, you might need to remove the assembly for inspection to be certain it is fully seated.

Topic moved from "How To" so more members will see it and better response to help Onibaka.

Reading Greg Field's account of the development of this engine (Moto Guzzi Big Twins, MBI Publishing, 1998), I am left with the impression that the designers and engineers brought it to a pretty high state of tune for a big, air-cooled, push-rod twin. Properly tuned, they do run very, very well, yet benefit from free flowing exhaust cans and, perhaps, a little better air flow. Beyond that, it looks like big bucks and high effort for rather incremental gains. Being an incurable motorhead , a good friend finally convinced me that turning my attention to the bike's suspension would give me far greater performance gains than anything I could do to the motor.

All good thoughts here, but being a really *cheap* Guzzi owner (is that redundant?), I found freeing up all the pistons (+1 on grossohc) really made a difference. It's a fiddly operation, but cheaper than new discs. Bedding fresh pads is also good medicine.

Nice! The style is very complimentary. Did you have to paint them to match?

+1! Critical starting point for the best end result. Just adding preload and more damping to a soft spring with too much sag could get you half-way to a bad day. . . .