docc

Ya'll better snap up that air box - chicks dig 'em . . .

Thanks Docc, I will keep an eye on that fuse. I would do an electrical health check now but past experience has taught me that I should wait for further issues before I dive into things that are largely a mystery to me. Let sleeping demons lie is my motto. I used to have an old Bonneville that regularly conked out with electrical problems and, well lets just say that shouting at a stationary machine at the side of the road is not a habit I want to return to. Cheers Perhaps then you could change the 30 amp fuse with every valve adjustment/ plug change while it's only melting and has not burned off its contacts just yet. That certainly is a trouble spot in the wiring harness.

Yeah, there is not much pad material there. And it is compounded by where the brake rides down in the spray. Doubly important to keep the pistons moving freely. Good advice on everyone's part here! Removing the old fluid from the reservoir first will keep it from overflowing when you retract the pistons. Again, I would work them in and out several times using a brake solvent to get them moving freely. You will find your next pads will last longer! Good question and some excellent input. (Rear brake is one of the Achilles' heels of the V11 series)

The intermittent arc from a broken connection throws some terrific voltage spikes into the electrical system. Sounds like your bulb socket contacts were also flinky. Very common issue - the melting/ broken/ charred 30 amp fuse: 30 amp fuse melting Nasty Hiccup/ MAXI Fuse

So, I see that *size* does matter after all . . .

Three thoughts: 1) The 1157 can be pressed in 180 degrees off lighting both filaments. 2) The flat contact hoops in the socket can flatten out and cause contact issues. I've pulled mine aft with a dental probe to gather more contact with the bulb base. (I had to be pretty aggressive with it to make it last). 3) Other members have reported a trapped wire under the seat/tail cowl which shorts the tail lamp circuit - worth a look! I have some other thoughts, but they'll have to post to some other forum . . .

OK, since you've asked this same simple question four times, giving us all the latitude to espouse our various opinions, the answer is "yes": two allen bolts to remove the caliper from the bracket.

I would think it better, then, to remove the black plastic cap, drive the retaining pin out and pull out the pads. Push the pistons back in to the caliper by prying, one then the other, to make room for the new pads. Using the brake parts cleaner is still good (just cover the wheel and such from the run off). If you're just doing the pads, use the plastic cover.

True that the pads can be replaced without removing the caliper by accessing through the black plastic cover. Yet, this is a good time to clean the contact block and pivot pin. Best to remove the entire bracket along with the wheel for best results. Also good to work both pistons in and out using a brake parts cleaner (protecting the wheel paint and your lungs and hands). You are likely to find that one piston moves far more easily than the other and must be blocked/clamped to get the other moving as well. It's a fiddly operation that takes a bit of time and chemical clean-up, but the brake action will be decidedly improved afterward! (Good medicine for the front pistons as well . . .) I suppose it must be said that this is a good time to bleed the fluid and turning the caliper over to put the bleeder on top will give the best result. Finally, check that the foot pedal has a bit of "play" to the master cylinder engagement. Torque well the pivot pin. Later V11 have a retaining clip inboard. One must assume that the pin can walk out without proper care. At the risk of posting really long answer to a comparatively short question, check out this FAQ: Maintenance Checklist (while the wheels are off)

Did you ever find out where that washer goes? I'm also having similar speedo problems. I have the gearbox angle drive apart and in addition to the problem areas you mention I notice the inner dia. of the brass bushing is pretty well worn. It's actually oval shaped and about .015 in out of round. I'm sure the would have something to do with needle wobble. My bike has 43k miles. I think it would probably be worthwhile for me to make a new sleeve for the bushing. Turns out, the washer fits nicely in a small container on the shelf labeled, "Washers and other parts left over from reassembly."

Thx Tom, Moto intl. came thru. seemed to be the only one in the states. Have a Teo Lamers adapter if anyone wants ??????????? So, all you got from them is the screw on part that presses into the bevel drive? Fer-cryin'-out-loud! That's the only part that doesn't go bad! I don't understand what your saying. Didn't he get the whole angle drive for $90?? In post #3, he describes it as missing the "upper portion." And in post#5 refers to it as the "adapter." I can only assume it (the Teo Lamers part) is just the insert that presses into the bevel drive and has a threaded collar to fasten down onto the gearbox. Sounds to me like it is the complete assembly that cost Tom M $90. Not sure what DSRDAVE might have paid Teo Lamers for the questionable part.

On early Sports, the tank does tend to sit down hard at the rear and ride in the side covers chafing and spreading the tank. Fitting a stack of fender washers under the rear tank mount can lift enough to relieve this pressure and stop the spread. Not likely that will address the damage already done.

Thx Tom, Moto intl. came thru. seemed to be the only one in the states. Have a Teo Lamers adapter if anyone wants ??????????? So, all you got from them is the screw on part that presses into the bevel drive? Fer-cryin'-out-loud! That's the only part that doesn't go bad!

I would gladly pony up the ten bucks just to find out what they're doing with them . . .

Today, I saw the following in 6th gear using ZUMO GPS: 4,000 rpm: 67 mph 5,000 rpm: 83 mph Didn't try for 6,000 as I was in a 55 mph zone with traffic. Also, the Sport has a 160 profile rear tire.

I'm all about completeness, and no V11 is complete without the proper "horns!" I choose not use the "rubber ends" but that's just me - we all take our chances . . .

Indicated speed (ala Vagueliar) or actual speed (ala GPS)?

W/ the stock intake horns? I see "complete" air boxes on eBay, but they're usually missing the critical pieces we're discussing... Yup. I got the airbox, mounting brackets, lid w/horns and rubber ends all for $10. You were lucky to get it. Hot babes are snapping these things up left and right . . .

What's wrong with the part you received? Did you break the lower (at the gearbox) or upper (at the speedometer)? What broke exactly?

The PCIII/laptop reads the crank sensor? And your tach is accurate both at idle and at "cruising" rpm? I have been told before by dealership folks who have seen a few of these that the tach is often "off" by the amount you see at rest. (?)

Indeed, very nice! Trevini, what happens below 11.8 - no light?

Can you see the brass insert coming apart? Otherwise, not a bad idea to disassemble, inspect, and lube. The lube adds pressure and makes the metal disc more likely to spit out along with the lower gear. The epoxy is good measure and can be removed with a Dremel if needed. There are two anchor points to each bevel drive (four in all). If any of them rotate, the needle will wag. That said, and all I have done, the needle does still does wag at lowest speeds.

Here's a link to the thread Speedo Needle Wobble showing a picture of the space that can develop in the lower bevel drive as its mounting pulls apart. The two screws on the upper hold the bevel drive to the back of the speedometer and can only be seen with the instrument pulled out of its case.

Did you press the lower unit back together and anchor the upper with the two slotted screws bearing down on the retention plate on back of the speedometer? Also, be sure to torque the knurled collar holding the lower drive to the gearbox. There should be no rotation there. Epoxy the metal disc before it spits out, especially if you have added a viscous lube in the housings.

With the side stand deployed, the bike is running on the middle relay. Might give it a wiggle, tighten its contacts, swap it with another relay or replace it. That relay is activated by the neutral switch behind the starter on the right side of the gear box. The connection to the switch is a simple female blade under a rubber boot. Easy enough to unplug, clean, tighten and coat with dielectric grease (or Vaseline). Simple stuff first. I'm not sure digging up the burial ground promises to make your life better . . .