docc

For sure, Testor's Italian Red is a good match for the early red frames, but not the later "anodized" look. One forum member noted the model paints, unlike automotive paints, have no hardeners and would not make a good product for a repaint. Still a great solution for touch-up and far better than the old nail polish method.

:D A proper affliction then!!

That is such a gorgeous V11! I do live the Tennis. What are those panniers?

If you have bevel drives, look for the lower drive to be separating from the housing. You will see the screw-on part pulling away from the plastic housing. This can be pressed back together in a vise or such after removal. Be certain the threaded connection is quite tight and does not rotate. Same for the screw down bale at the speedometer end - be certain it is tight and the bevel drive will not rotate. Finally (if you have bevel drives): be certain the "retaining disc" at the lower end is epoxied in place. If it spits out (like it might with too much cable lube), the internal gear will spit itself off into the greater universe. extra moderatorism: Folks - if you would please: go to your profile and add our bike's year/model. Also, most helpful to have some location in your profile, even if only continent - this really helps forum members narrow in on solutions!

I think, yes,air screws= idle only. And I've always found my idle more stable at a full turn out (tried many different combinations.) No doubt, the air bleed must affect synchronization as well ( why else would some procedures call for closing them to synch?). I think the full turn makes the whole system a little more forgiving of varied conditions ( like high ambient heat). Looks like you're getting her nailed down!

Pricing seems excellent! For the record, go to your profile and add the year model of your Sport. Early Sports have different finishes. I suspect yours must be '03-'04?

I seem to recall it was Carl Allison (callison) who found a method for grounding the internals to ensure function. After my first tach failed, I used this method and this one has lasted long enough the orange needle is almost white.

Old oil filter gasket definitely came off with the old oil filter?

I'm thinking the whole premise has been for the sensor to lose the heat (not soak it up, therefor: "low mass") and find it quickly (hence the close tolerance to the metal connection to the head. All to contribute to better "responsiveness,"

How much gap is there off the tip?

That's under 200F. I wouldn't think it would cause trouble until well over 250F (125C or so).

And how blue are they cold? Both the same blue? I'm thinking way lean and ungood - never seen my headers like that (83,000 miles).

Ah, my friend, you have come to the depths of the asylum to inquire about your sanity? Let me be the first inmate to assure you in your clarity and revelation. The Guzzi has, without a doubt, set her gentle hooks. Her style and grace will define your artistic existence. She will be as reliable as your wrenches and voltmeter will allow (hi-speed internet is good). All of this is Good, but when you ride her . . . oh, my . . . you will then be among the afflicted -

Ah, the forensics begin . . . first thing's first: You didn't mention valve adjustment (first thing); Check for corrosion at the spark plug wire exiting the coil. Check battery condition (static voltage, voltage at idle, voltage at rpm) Then there is the ignition switch to consider. . .

The gap in the Engine Temperature Sensor is only an issue if you decide to entirely dismantle the sensor and fabricate a low mass holder. Otherwise, as Tom has said, most important just not to fracture the black plastic.

You might try repositioning your intake air sensor and/or provide some air flow to it (I recall yours is mounted in a canister or such.) There has been some considerable debate about the Engine Temperature Sensor. IMO, it's worth looking into. FWIW, I totally agree with Tom's approach to tuning. I suppose we should update the FAQ with the alternative, simplified method.

Is the mV at idle setting the only thing different about the MI method? (most of us have found that something around 530 mV is best) Otherwise, when my tach shows 1400 rpm that is 1100.

For certain, changing valve settings can affect the throttle body synch. And setting the ECU CO to zero is also good medicine.

The VDST would be good to confirm your CO is zeroed. My Sport was delivered at MINUS 27. Also, good to confirm your tachometer error to insure idle accuracy (my Veglia reads 300 rpm high and I've heard 500 is not uncommon). Everything else, you can do with your tools and taking the time. I'm not sure it's mentioned in the tuning thread, but setting a strong fan in front of the motor during the tuning process will help keep the engine temps from going too high.

I love it! An Eldorado rat bike.

Nasty Hiccups in hot ambient temps have been a common aggravation. Various known attempts at improvement include: removing the air intake snorkels, opening the air bleed screws to a full turn, loosening the valve lash, increasing the idle speed, securing the 30 amp regulator fuse, securing all of the relays and connections (including regulator grounding), modifying the Engine Temperature Sensor. It only gets better!

While I do use a "jam nut" on the white linkage knob, I've never found my air screws to walk. I favor the "full turn" setting and always find them where I left them last. I do like using the mercury sticks, partly for their socially unacceptable danger (my kids do seem a bit odd at times), but for their atavistic appeal - how could anyone tune a 2 valve, push rod twin any other way? Motowfo and I had some fun balancing his Coppa with the TwinMax and then checking it with the mercury sticks . . . . it was perfect and the mercury would make it no better. I'm sure I broke numerous transport regulations just driving the scary things across county lines on federal highways, but it was worth it to report that the digital solution is reliable and more than adequate. That, and I had been plied with Imperial Stout . . .

That's a huge disparity in air screws. Makes me think something else has been amiss. Be certain to adjust the valves to a proper spec "stone cold." Fit fresh plugs and synch the throttle bodies. Dave Richardson once noted this same phenomenon in Guzziology: when you tweak the idle it changes the TPS, when you tweak the TPS it changes the idle. But they keep converging as you work so don't give up. Also, realize your tach my read high, so trying to tune at an indicated 1100 could be expecting the motor to be happy at 750 or 800 rpm (it won't be). Yes, the hi-idle cam is the "choke" gizmo. Voltage is read between the positive (black/purple) and the negative (purple).

Such a dark topic . . .

It looks like a simple mix of body parts black/silver. The wheels look silver in the Dutch photo. The decals on the tail and side covers look unchanged (Does it say "TT" anywhere?). Otherwise, it should be mechanically no different than a standard Sport. Yet, Carl obviously did a lot to this bike - it's not the one he called "FrankenSport?"