docc

The 150 mV is for completely closed throttle with the rod disconnected, no stop screw contact, no fast idle cam contact. Your reading looks like there must be some contact. The right idle screw is on the inboard side of the back of the throttle body (vary hard to see/ adjust and one more reason to back it fully out); The fast idle cam and cable are under the front of the right throttle body and will also interfere with the 150 mV closed throttle plate setting. Not entirely sure what you mean by top and bottom wires as the voltage is read between them in millivolts DC. Pinned thread in FAQ for reference: TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning

I'm not sure I recall a "TT" trim level? What year model? Do you have a picture?

You can tell a fine man when his character comes across languages, lines of nations, and even through an internet forum. Fine fellow, indeed .

"Fastenal" may be source for the fasteners if you have one nearby. If you like, pm me with your location and maybe we can compare notes in person. I'm an hour or so south of Nashville. Kudos on the Coppa!

24,000 miles and 4 years since my MAXI fuse change and all's well with it. As many of you may recall or have read, I tried several other solutions first. See the long, drawn out thread "Nasty Hiccup" for a compendium of various things that contribute to the hiccup including: regulator issues, broken stator wire, crappy coil output connection, faulty TPS, Engine Temperature Sensor . . . I also shoot for a 5,000 mile tune-up interval for valve adjustment, fresh plugs, and throttle body balance. I don't monkey with the TPS and idle anymore after doing it repeatedly over a period of two or three years.

Hi, Rhino! Sweet looking V11 and you're in the right place (here!) to help make her "just so." You are right about the '02-'03 holdover. Do a search (by "relevance"/ not "last update") on 2002 LeMans issues. There are a couple really thorough threads on what to be aware of. Otherwise, looks like it comes with some nice extra goodies. It's always telling to page through the workshop manual and see what sections the thumbprints are in!

Well, there is a "shim" on the timing sensor that can be "adjusted." Closer = earlier BTDC? Thicker = later BTDC? (idk) Just in case the weather turns off bad and you need something more to tinker around with . . .

I hear circus music playing in the distance . . .

I actually just carry half of one with the corners rounded, clip it in the the lock pliers for sawing and use the thickness for gapping plugs. I have a length of stainless steel safety wire as well - is that "gangion" wire?

Extra tools, zip-ties, Extreme tape, air compressor (Slime brand) with plug kit (Miruni Earth Stick), zip-ties, rags, test light, volt-ohm meter, zip-ties, siphon tube, long nose vice-grips, cork screw, bottle opener, hack saw blade (0.026" feeler gauge), zip-ties, Leatherman tool, 6 mil black nitrile gloves, LED headband flashlight, wiring diagram, zip-ties, hex drives, spare bulbs and fuses and relays. Did I mention the zip-ties?

I think that might be Guy in the background tugging up his trousers . . .

1) No paste required. 2) How do you propose to attach your new acetal holder to the existing base? (Less mass is the goal with this modification and a simple short length of threaded copper rod works well). 3) 5mm air gap

Copied/ pasted and posted in FAQ. Fuel Regulator alternative

Posted 8-5-2012, 12:22 AM on Technical Topics by member "twinsrule" If you're in the market for a Fuel Pressure Regulator for your '02 Guzzi and you don't want to pay the exorbitant "dealer" price of 270.00+ USD, then NAPA auto parts is your savior. The NAPA P/N is MC26011 and costs around 57.00 USD + shipping if you order it online. It is a Weber part, it's a 3bar, and it fit my '02 Tenni. The part is also a replacement for 95-01 Harley's equipped with EFI. Mine ceased regulating and fuel was blowing by the injector o-rings and I agave up after a couple attempts of cleaning it. Gootsie is happy again and getting ridden after 3 months of down time. My apologies if this old news here. Link to part here --Pete

They are actually not hex but Torx and it is a good move to replace them with hex fasteners making them so much easier to fettle with a simple 90 degree angled hex tool. The yellow paint is there to help you find the things that need messing with.

" Sir, I am unaware of any such activity or operation... nor would I be disposed to discuss such an operation if it did in fact exist, sir." Capt Willard aka Bullwinkle the Moose aka DBG docc never said that . . . I didn't say that . . . cheeeze!

Too cool. I think they like each other (you can just tell . . .)!

Most likely culprit would be the "bullet" connectors from the clutch switch located under the left side of the tank. Try rotating the bars all the way to lock one way (try to start) then the other (try to start). Otherwise, put an ear to the clutch lever and listen for a tiny *click* as the lever is pulled (the switch sometimes just gets all gummed up). headlights, horn, and brake light work?

Posted twice just to gain ground on your post count.

I have always loved the ST2 . . . How could it be any less reliable than a V11?

Clip-ons or handlebars? Headlight mounted to the frame or to the forks? (Trying to discern if it may be a late '02/ early '03 versus the final generation.)

Sounds like a good price and the '03 -'04 are very nice examples. What color are the forks?

There are several threads on the leaky phase sensor which mimics a leaky timing chest. Look at this Oil Leak thread for a good time. There is an O-ring on the sensor. (Gotta watch those Goolge Analytics since 326 out of 400 pageviews could be Google Analytics . . .)

Yeah, the wife said it's her or the Guzzi . . Gosh I'm gonna miss the old gal.

Ah! We could say, then, "spring length." The one pictured is 145 mm. I have edited my previous posts where I mis-measured. So, for clarity (if we could hope for such a thing ), I'll say it this way: The range of adjustment is about 30mm. The shock pictured is "preloaded" 18mm or 60% of the adjustment range. (Even if the adjusters are backed all the way off, I suspect the spring still has some "preload." I could not find any specification for this spring's free length.) The angle of the photo does not show the threads below the adjustor ring, but there is another 12mm to maximum. I am surprised with your weight and your spring length that you do not have more sag. Possible the PO already changed the spring? (The stock coil wire is about 0.445" with 6 full coils)