docc

Not sure what you mean by "between the adjuster rings" since the one against the spring is the adjuster ring and the other is a lock ring. Yet, 26 mm is a good sag measure; on the stiff, or tight, side - could be out to 30-33 on the 'comfort' side. The picture of my SACHS is 145mm from the top coil to the bottom coil, with 12mm remaining in the adjustment.

Suspension set-up can take surprising new turns . . .

I must be carrying too many rocks in my pockets . . .

I love the tank badging and the luxurious brown seat and grips!

I could not find any stampings on the rear shock of my 2000 V11 Sport. It has a gold body, white spring, and blue anodized fittings. There is a sticker on the bottom of the reservoir:

The Guzzi is driven by the infamous "bevel drives" (failure prone of themselves), but the internals should be the same and, once apart, you could likely swap parts.

The OEM unit is most likely Sachs-Boge. The last of the White Power units went on the earlier Sport 1100 series (no V11 were known to get the WP in spite of period literature and certain magazine reports of the day (that probably relied on the literature).

Just for emphasis: the rear pistons graze along just above the nasty tarmac getting wet, nasty and ugly. Cleaning those pistons (with brake cleaner), working them in and out, and bleeding that fluid (yearly) is good stuff, along with being certain the foot pedal doesn't drag the brake (there should be a little "play"). The same applies to the fronts: the pistons will tend to move differently. Routinely, work the pistons in and out applying brake cleaner watching them to move together more uniformly. The change in brake action is really amazing!

I'm thinking you'll be very pleased after this is done and fresh spark plugs. She'll be like a date with a dozen roses!

The two nipples are the overflow (fuel filling) and the vapor vent. Looking down at the tank with the cap open, you can see which is which. (Left:overflow/ right: vent) Yes, you can join them. A line does return from the fuel injectors to the regulator on the right side (like 3/8" OD), but there is a deceiving "nib" appearing as a connection on the bottom of the regulator facing forward. It is open to atmosphere and has no hose connecting to it.

Carb cleaner eats rubber parts right quick So, what would you use? (I actually use electronics cleaner, since brake parts cleaner is probably even worse than carb cleaner.) WD40?

Good to hear it's something simple. Check the whole tune-up/valve adjustment and throttle body balance to prevent a recurrence.

Most likely explanation is the loose intake boot. You can find it by inspection or spraying a solvent, like carb cleaner, around the joints and surfaces monitoring for a change in idle speed.

A beautiful thing!

The Scura has Ohlins suspension and a more aggressive (single plate) clutch/flywheel that some say might be problematic. Scura is more exclusive. Thread here on Breakdown of Model Year Changes And a current, ongoing thread: Thinking about a 2002 LeMans Unless your heart just draws you to the style of one over the other, I would look closely at maintenance records and "improvements" as indicators. You'll appreciate an exhaust upgrade to tap into that Guzzi character. May be a factor if one has a system and the other not.

What's this Docc? I missed this,maybe cause I havent had any heat related issues. There was a trend some years back to swap the plastic engine temperature sensor holder to another Guzzi part that was all brass. The method was to also add a paste to bring the brass sheath of the sensor into contact with the holder; the thinking being that the engine temperature would be more accurately read. Now, much of the year it is quite hot where I ride in the southeastern USA and the Sport was especially angry about dragging along in traffic or parking lots in this heat (over 90-100F / 32-38C). After using the high mass holder for a couple years (something like 15,000 miles), I returned to the plastic holder with no contact paste and saw immediate improvement. A couple forum members had worked up a modification removing the integrated brass sheath from the sensor and fabricating a Delrin holder. Worked well for me - summary thread here: Engine Temperature Sensor

+1 on the mechanical conversion (leave it, then, always open unless removing the tank); +1 also on the 'prone to break' theory. They have always been a fragile link and don't require negligence to break. *one less fuse - one less worry*

I don't understand the problem. Those voltages are to be expected. Those voltages are certainly typical. And may sustain the battery for a reasonable period of time. Yet, AGM manufacturers (ie: Hawker Odyssey) specify 14.2 volts for charging, unlimited amperage. Static voltage on an AGM is 12.84 vDC. Anything less is discharging.

In these temps and what we have for "fuel," I find 4000 miles not too soon for a proper tune (valves, plugs, TPS, throttle balance, idle setting). Again, don't be afraid to add a hundred rpm to your idle. 1250 is not too high and a full turn out on the air screws will tolerate the heat better. Do all this first and be certain your TPS is not nicked at the idle spot. Otherwise, there is a (controversial) temp sensor modification . . .

Invisible picture? Maybe post a wanted in the classifieds for someone who has swapped out for bar end mirrors.

Woops - it's in Frequently Asked Questions: TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning /how to set your TPS and balance your throttle bodies

I did just lap solder into the wiring at the rear of the harness. As the thread shows, I used infra-red measurement to assess heat. It is also good to check your voltages: static, idle, and charging. The AGM batteries do like charging at more than 14 volts.

!6-18 (37.6-42.3 US mpg) looks pretty good to me. I think those getting more are very easy on the throttle transitions and minimal shifting. "Temp sensor mod?" How so? http://www.v11lemans...pic=14832&st=15 This is the thread that discusses sense AND nonsense about the temp sensor. I have made a contribution to the thread aswell. Maybey it`s interesting to read it?If so, please feel free to read it and if you have any questions about my mod, feel free to PM me. Guzzigreetings, Velf2003 Oh yes, threads I remember too well, but are VERY hard to search and get the technical content. An attempt was made to reset the technical component here: Engine Temperature Sensor I am very happy with this modification. Tested extensively, here of late, in the triple digit heat (pushing 40 Celcius).

The tanks did change after 2002. What year your Sport, Paul?

Maybe better if another "collector" gets it. They pay top dollar, don't worry about seals and such, and they'll have it there for us to look at when our sorry old V11s are all clapped out and wanting - 83,000 miles now on the Sport and not just entirely clapped out yet! ( I do love the look of the Tenni - belissimo!)