docc

I've always like the "feel" of the RedLine lightweight in my gearbox. It's easy to over fill the bevel box with the RedLine heavy and I think I pushed my seals over filling. Even going back to normal gear oil and changing seals, I'm still fighting a drip (on the outboard side now)

The moly in the rear drive is correct for the Moto Guzzi specification. The play is typical, but I don't know how much is too much.

I did hear back from Walt at TheLodgeatTelllico that the tornado took down a big oak and left a mess but otherwise all is well. Haven't heard from MiniMike at Tellico Motorcycle Outfitters. Hope they are all ok. Bill, I wonder if you'd like to rendezvous with us in middle Tennessee and head over on Friday from here? We'll be leaving mid-morning from a point near exit 46, I-65.

Found this one in FAQ: Maintenance Checklist - while the wheels are off

Moto International in your neighboring Seattle should be a good resource for you. Yet, I was thinking the "mother lode' of V11 parts went to HMB-Guzzi in Germany. Perhaps that was only a rumor?

Unplug your coil wires form the coils and be certain they are clean and free of corrosion. Setting the TPS and balancing the throttle bodies can be accomplished by several different methods. You might want to try an alternate method and be aware the indicated idle on the tachometer may be 500-700 rpm high.

The side stand switch only provides power to the run switch when it is up. Otherwise, the neutral switch activates the middle relay. Your trouble could be the neutral switch (on the left side of the gearbox), or the middle relay (called the "sidestand relay", but activated by the neutral switch), or very simply the connector to the neutral switch which gets dodgy and crapped up under a little rubber boot behind the starter. I would start by cleaning the connector. Others have been able to remove the neutral switch and clean it even getting better service from it by switching gearbox oil. It's not the side stand switch.

Don't think Aprilia came in until after the 2001 modes were out. Not sure ho owned Guzzi in the '99-'01 series. Bankers I suppose. For certain, my Y2k Sport is "pre-Aprilia."

Now I admit I use my V11 for 3 days-2 nights in motels and the tank bag and TEKNO soft bags serve well. For three weeks camping (!), I use this:

Interesting this kit to adapt a "normal" cable to the early V11 and eliminate the problematic/expensive/unavailable bevel drives. Tell more, post pictures!

And here I thought the staking sounded like such a simple solution. Maybe that term is not universal?

She's away till Friday - good plan. 70 deg C should do it. AndyH And you know we'll never tell . . . We're a band of brothers!

I was thinking the V11 shifted the drive line to the right to make for the largest possible rear wheel/tire size. Not an issue with the narrower tires of Calis and most BMW. That theory may be all washed up, but it's the story most of us bought into back in the day . . .

5 x S = Soon-to-be Semi Single Sided Swingarm . . .

Ony you guys could combine an oil thread with a beer thread! I never thought of shaking my oil bottles . . .

Perhaps a length of al dente pasta wrapped around one of the fork legs, should be able to tug the forks one way, and then the other without breaking if properly adjusted ..? Apologies in advance for the flippant comment. I've always gone with the adjust until bind, and then back off a tad method also. Gio Haha - quantifying "a tad" and "al dente" uses the same scale!

Brought all the posts here. Nothing duplicated on the 24/7 forum . . .

After your initial search, drop down the "RESULT SORTING" menu and choose "Relevance" and click "update." It still throws a myriad of results at you, but more likely to find those old threads we so fondly remember . . .

As you own a 2001 you should have none. Funny. Hubert Indeed, this is largely a 2002 problem. Yet, the later '01 and earlier '03 may be afflicted as well. Maybe a poll of failures by year?

Both the "over mount" and "under mount" clip-ons will rotate forward and back fixed by the torque on the pinch bolts. Always a good method there to tighten in stages and go back and forth between the two fasteners. The under mount of the earlier versions (1999-2001) can be lowered, but the over mount cannot be slid down unless the forks are moved up through the triple clamp.

Can do. Interesting looking at the old threads . . . my post wondering if a ground strap to the regulator body would be a good idea. And the post from Gary Cheek (whom I hold in high regard) that the changes I made should "help the regulator." (my paraphrase) The terminal stack is a trouble maker, no doubt. The 30 amp mini fuse is problematic as well. Perhaps my power distribution solution , along with the MAXI fuse is good juju . . .

Link here to the wiring in the headlamp bucket. And here for the power distribution from the battery. Also, the battery and regulator are a year and a half old and the stator is two and a half. I've added all the recommended grounds and regularly serviced connectors. OMRON relays in the relay block as well as the headlamps (x2), and the 30 amp Maxi fuse for the charging circuit.

That is the number from pages E1, E2 in the parts manual: 30 11 52 20 "Raccordo sulle pipe aspirazione (Union on the intake pipe)"

I just rode 25 miles three hours ago. Voltage is 13.02. At idle: 12.60 and everything over 2500 rpm: 14.24. Seems ok to me, but it's always a worrisome subject and we all want to be getting the most out of the charging system. If I added the diode, wouldn't it boost the charge to 14.84? That seems a bit high . . .

But what does it mean: This 2000 Sport has OMRON 0264A22A relays (one for the hi-beam, one for the low) in the headlamp shell wired directly from the battery through a 10 amp circuit breaker, each grounded to the frame and their coils activated by the stock wiring.. The voltage drop from the reference is 140mV on low beam, 160mV hi beam. I see why the electric jacket does not change the reference voltage at all since the reference circuit is the headlamp /brake lamp circuit only. I am certainly unclear why a diode is the answer and not a resistor to increase voltage drop, but I am admittedly clueless on the electronics.