docc

I like my factory stand, but: 1) with my preload setting on the rear (cranked up, I suppose), the tire doesn't clear without chocking the stand's handle up with a block of wood. 2) The sump spindle is nifty, but the stand has rollers and my Sport managed to move forward (wheels off) and tip the spindle. The forks landed neatly on the concrete floor, but the Sport frowned. I now always use a floor jack under the sump. Much more stable and easily height adjustable. I hate it when she frowns at me like that . . .

Part number is 192072 20. Can you remove it and test it off the gearbox? It seems so unlikely they would have removed the sideplate just to disable the switch . . .

I know it's not the most elegant solution, but; mount a Garmin Zumo?

See there! I told you my Sport was worth hundreds.

New relays in and wot? Good to go?

There were no body panels available in 2000 besides the body color plastics. Yes, they crack. And, yes, even without overtightening the fasteners. I'm thinking cf panels came along in 2001 for the Rosso Mandello. I have reinforced the underside of my side covers and starter cover with fiberglass. The cracks are still visible, but stable. I see my front fender needs some of the same treatment, but I haven't got round to that yet. (Then there is The Tank . . .) Notably, the problem was well known to Guzzi in the day. During my three year warranty, they gave me new side covers and a starter cover. The dealer made me promise not to install them! Pretty soon they'll be worth more than the bike itself!

AT almost 80,000 miles, I'm on my third Veglia. The first under warranty when it started wagging at highway speed and the second when the trip odometer locked up. $298.53 (USD) shipped from MI in Seattle in July, 2010. With the Garmin ZUMO in the mount, I'm not sure I would repair another Veglia. The GPS shows speed, odometer, fuel tank range and is lighted. It has "dashboard" functions that would entirely supplement the original speedometer. Of course, there are always these solutions:

Here's a link to FAQ with some of the above and a little more: Maintenance Checklist while the wheels are off

Check out this excellent pictorial by belfastguzzi in the How To forum: Gearbox Selector Spring and Pawl Arm repair

Hi, dshap! I'm trying to figure where you are saying is "hanging by the wires." Can you show a picture or make more of a description? Also, go to your 'profile" and list a location. This will help members assist you.

That's good advice! Do a full "tune-up" and realize the Tachometer may not read true. My (early) white face Veglia is 300 RPM high. That means I have to set all parameters at tune-up to an idle indicated on the tach at 1350. Frankly, I shoot for 1500 (indicated) as more is better for oil pressure and idle stability.

Interesting, I was out checking my fuel range and light today. My light will first give a glow at 4.2 US Gallons. The light may then go out and on intermittently until the tank needs 4.5 gallons. The light is more likely to stay on at idle or low throttle openings. I just don't think your tank was low enough to light it. It is notable that my Sport has an early tank with the pump outside. Although billed as 5.8 gallons, I have drained it fully and only gotten out 5.1. Riding, I only assume a 5.0 capacity (all USGallons). Your later tank may behave differently. That said, the wires to the sensor have been known to break loose. Have a look under the boot of the sensor. More commonly, these V11 do get 32-38 mpg. Usually less in the colder weather. There are certainly guys out there getting over 40, but not as commonly. Your 34 is on the low side and could indicate time for a tune up and reset on the PC. You are certain your actual high beam is coming on? Otherwise, those little bulbs in the instrument panel are pretty easy to change.

First to look at the external linkage at the foot lever. It should pivot up and down, pulling a short rod which rotates a small lever pinched onto a shaft coming out of the left gear box side case. Does the action of the foot lever appear to rotate the shaft?

I would think it unlikely a major manufacturer like Mobil1 would reformulate without label changes for anybody. If it doesn't say something like "this oil specially blended for Wallmart" it is the same stuff. Too much liability. Usually if a major manufacturer packages oil for a private brand it is the same spec with the private brand label. Valvoline does this directly for independent auto shops and dealers. They have a parallel bulk oil line called Ultramax. Comes out of the same tank as the Valvoline branded oil but is less expensive because there is no company advertising or promotion involved. Looks like I got that from Richard Widman's work linked above. After careful reading on pages 13 and 14, I see he is saying (something like): Just because a store brand oil is made by a major producer (like ExxonMobil) doesn't mean it's the same oil. The store can make it's own specification. He references the SuperTech oil branded by WalMart and apparently made by ExxonMobil. Thanks for getting me to go back for a more careful read.

Thank you, gentlemen! The WIX looks so much better built, larger, and heavier that I think I'll install it instead of the ST. The Porsche site I linked references WIX as an acceptable replacement part. (I'm thinking Porsche people might be even pickier than Guzzi people some of whom have been to known to use those filter canisters that use toilet paper rolls ). Thanks for the feedback!

And also a link to Richard Widman and Corvair oil

I remember reading that WalMArt can specify its oils with major manufacturers, so you may not be getting the same base oils when you buy at the "guaranteed lowest price." Here's a site worth a read for air-cooled motors: oils for Porsche

So, the trouble seems to be clearance for filter height. The SuperTech (USA built Champion from WalMart) looks to be some 3.120 inches (7.88 cm) and the WIX 51348 looked much taller. I had O'Reilly's show the filter for Guzzi applications. All models were the same WIX 51215. (Hecho en Mexico) It is also taller than the ST by about 7mm or 9/32" (3.404 inches). The WIX specs state this filter (51215) is for Buell/HD/Dixie Chopper. The only difference I see in the specs is the Burst Pressure/PSI which is 325 for the 51215 and lower for the "Saab" filter (51348): 275 psi. EDIT: also, the WIX 51215 is more heavy duty construction than the SuperTech/Champion weighing 252 grams to the ST's 189 grams. What about the height? What is the height on the UFI?

Definitely, some simple things for you to square away. No need to "completely strip and overhaul!" Sure all the little things that may need attention can take some time to work through, but she'll get better every step of the way!

Thanks, guys. I suppose I'll carry in my spare SuperTech and do a comparison. I thought about cutting them open for a look, but not likely. Nice to know what these bits fit in the case of walking in the door of the parts store with no numbers. I use a fuel filter for Isuzu Trooper (like , all years) and, apparently a Saab oil filter (like, all years!) Off to Oh, Really's for this months oil/filter special on my new oil-of-choice: Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50 SG.

The rear brake light switch crapped out on my 04 lemans a couple of days ago.It's a pressure switch.I know cars from to 70's used them a lot.I'm not about to spend nearly $50.00 for a simple switch. Napa has them for around $7.00,just different terminals. Electrical connections are pretty easy to change. The switch you sourced screws in properly? What is its application?

So, I suppose an update is rather overdue. I always appreciate when posters come back with "the rest of the story." The big seal went in fine and contained about 90% of the drip. I tried to source a replacement shaft just to be certain about it, but never could get one around. Even with a $600 USD promise. Yet, the u-joints don't grind or play, so I decided to keep them intact (and the alignment marks aligned), pull the rear drive, and have the inner seal replaced. After carefully searching for a proper "factor," I delivered the piece up. Now, I had read about the procedure to use heat and drop the drive onto a block of wood to dislodge the internals. I figured I would pass on this and hire it done properly. After two weeks, the fellow informed me that it would take a special bearing puller, and the "hot drop block" method had cracked the case. Cosmetic, says he, but not good. The drive would be going to Harper's in Kansas, USA, and he would try to address the crack. So I says, "The crack is at like 10:00, 9:00, what?" "9:00," he says (Long post, now, I know, but it's been going on a year and a half) As it turns out, the back flange (or "bell") of the rear drive snapped almost completely off. The "crack" started at about 11:00 through the mounting web of the torque arm and broke downward along the back of the drive to, say, 7:00 about an inch from the edge. The piece almost completely broke off! Now, this fellow has been working on Guzzis for half a lifetime. His observation is that the earlier drives didn't have as big of a flange or as deep of a "bell" or "cone" if you will. The block he's dropped so many earlier drives on snapped this one. So, new seal in (from Harper's), crack welded, I sanded, grinded, filled (JBWeld), sanded, shaped, primed, sanded, painted, sanded, clear coated . . . garage basement plastic surgery. 500 miles now and no leak! And the cosmetics are not terribly bad (this is not my show bike). I don't suppose I'll be carelessly overfilling the rear drive with Redline Heavy and I wonder if the "heat and drop" dis-assembly method may be, well, not so good for these later/ pre-CARC rear drives.

OK, well, there's this: Part Number: 51348 UPC Number: 765809513488 Principal Application: Various Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep (82-11), Various GM, Saturn (85-07), Lexus (90-10), Saab (67-09), Suzuki (86-02), Toyota (88-11), Ford (03-11), Mazda, Mercury (05-11), Yugo (86-89), VW (09-11) Various Lawn&Garden, Farm, HD Equipment All Applications Style: Spin-On Lube Filter Service: Lube Type: Full Flow Media: Paper Height: 3.404 Outer Diameter Top: 2.921 Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed Thread Size: 3/4-16 By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11 Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20 Burst Pressure-PSI: 275 Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM Nominal Micron Rating: 21 Gasket Diameters Number O.D. I.D. Thk. Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226 __________________________________________________________________________________________________________ FWIW, I'm thinking it a good indication that Saab specified the filter for so long ('67 -'09) as well as Volkswagen more recently. That both Saturn and Jeep/Chrysler as well as Suzuki and Toyota have used it so long (20-30 years) should make it ever available.

Other than the UFI, the Champion made filter available at WankMark (Super Tech ST3614) has been referenced here before. I had my local Oh,Really parts store cross reference to a WIX. I am under the (perhaps misled) impression that WIX makes a good reliable filter. (They say : WIX 51348) The question is, what does it otherwise fit? They listed SAB/CHR/TOY '67-'09. Whatever that means.

Yeah, the coil spring inside the clutch master cylinder was in several parts (three or four pieces - thread here somewhere - search by "relevance"). The lever picked up excessive play that was only noticed during a fluid bleeding procedure. Worked much better after the rebuild!