docc

So far, my sorry rear drive is staying tight. The Lower Middle Tennessee contingent is having breakfast at MarcyJo's 4 miles east of I65/ exit 46 Friday morning October 7, kicking up sidestands by about 9-9:30 and rolling a little over 200 miles of backroads to the Barber Motorsports Park. A few of us are holing up at the Hampton in Trussville a few miles away. Only because the hotel is between a CycleGear and a Hooters .

Good advice there on the diesel oils (CI-4/ CJ-4) and to avoid the friction modifiers. Even Pete said so - no self respecting yak would spin off friction modifiers. I'm disappointed to see my latest Lucas 20w-50 is not rated SG/SF but SM/SL/SJ. I suspect the zinc and phosphorus levels have diminished as well. Without a lab test of Rotella 15w-40 and the new Lucas product, we will not really be able to know.

While it is true these leaks may come from inside the covers, first be certain the timing sensor (phase sensor, "R.P.M. and T.D.C. sensor "7") at the the top left of the front case is not seeping. It is most common and easiest to fix. The leaking of the sensor may appear along the left timing chest (looking like a chest crack or leak), or at the bottom (appearing as a leak from inside the chest), or even on the floor next to the front fork ( looking like a blown fork seal). While an O-ring is needed to fix the sensor leak, mine leaked through the wire connection and required epoxy measures to secure. May not be your trouble, but better to be sure it is not on the outside before venturing inside.

With my 2000 V11 Sport, I wonder if the tank would have expanded like this and begun to bubble like this without the ethanol. Perhaps not. The motor seems to run a little lean in spite of all efforts. Ethanol? I suppose I could make the fantastic effort of sourcing non-alcohol fuel and see what happens over time. IMHO, alcohol has better uses . . .

This is the 7th vintage festival at Barber's Motorsports Park near Birmingham, Alabama, USA. While the festival itself, apparently, has no "featured marque" like many concours, the classic bike show sponsored by the magazine, Motorcycle Classics is "spotlighting" the 90th anniversary of Moto Guzzi at the Motorcycle Classics Barber Vintage Motorcycle Show "presented by (their) friends at Moto Guzzi." I'm not sure what that all means, but I'm determined to ride my V11 Sport to Barber's again this year (it's a great event!) and endeavor to park it in the "show." While I might get some award for no gear oil on my rear wheel, I'm more hoping to meet some of you and enjoy the solidarity.

Hi, Thaing! Nice to hear you're still working that V11! The change had to be made to the neutral switch, its wiring , or its relay. The switch is on the left side of the gear box (is there a wire still connected to it?) The relay is the middle one in the row (Is it still there, under the seat?) Ride well, docc

After all these years of, well, "gearbox issues," the one that I'm not sure you've looked at (ok, I have not re-read the entire thread) is the clutch master cylinder. More than one have broken the internal spring needing a rebuild (not difficult). Mine showed up after a clutch bleed with what seemed like too much play at the lever. Worth a check . . . Ride well, docc

High ZDDP (phosphorous) levels are detrimental to catalytic converters ("street use"), which our V11s do not have. I've gone to Lucas SG 20W-50. Don't let anyone tell you the oil doesn't matter . . .

I remember 2002 saying to MGNA and my dealer, "My gearbox doesn't shift right." 81 emails later, and with my dealer's support (Ben Curlin of Jackson, TN), the gearbox was replaced. In that time, I was directed to this forum , the early units were recalled, and , as I said in those days: if there is an expert on the six speed Guzzi gearbox - it are us. Almost ten years on, it turns out, it is us; if "us" is belfastguzzi. Thanks, David, for the persistent support and dedication that can be found no where else!

The clutch switch must engage for the starter solenoid to be energized. While the switch itself could fail, it is more common to loose contact at the two simple "bullet" connectors beside the frame under the tank on the left just behind the headset. They are certainly worth cleaning, crimping, and sealing. The switch is activated by the clutch lever through a small hole and a little ball bearing, or perhaps a small plastic puck. Since that area is rather exposed to the weather, it is a good place to clean up, dry off, and maybe apply a little light lube. Good maintenance!

Here's the linky thing

I gues if the guides are bad enough to let the valve wobble, the seating would be compromised and compression affected. Not so much from "leaking" guides, but the subsequent wear on the seats.

I still can't figure how the guides, that are separated from the combustion chamber by the seats, could affect compression or leak down. I'm thinking it's more from sticky rings and gummy seats from too many months/years sitting and it will all be solved by more frequent heat cycling and a couple oil changes. Yet, Montana may be more conducive to machine-work than miles! Beware of Hagan's garage warming methods:

+1 on that. And that the original foot controls have approximately the structural rigidity of an over baked pretzel.

30 Nm is the torque specification for an 8mm fastener. I would think that shockingly low for an axle. My 2000 Sport Workshop manual calls for 120 Nm, which I've used for these years with no troubles. 30Nm? Scary . . .

Glad to hear you're back on the road with a pretty simple tune-up! The brass sensor and anti-seize shot my sport in the foot.

As to the oil seep, look at this thread. Sealing the surface and replacing the O-ring on the phase sensor did not completely seal my leak as the sensor was leaking internally through the wire connection. The JB Weld has stopped this entirely.

Have a look at this thread and the link posted there. Beautiful tank!

And there weren't just nice bikes at the raid, but friendly looking people with big smiles . . .

A couple more of the nice spine frames at the Raid:

Looking forward to the link offered to us by the friendly fellow at the lodge who rode ahead and photographed us each passing on the Cherohala.And I know Bill will have us hooked up with a fabulous slide show (any undignified pictures of me bending over are Photoshopped!). Here is one of my favorites of two of the fine-spines: Andy York on his 82,000 mile LeMans and Josh on that gorgeous '96 Sport after a very sweet run through the Gulfs of TN Hwy 30:

Just a preliminary report: All is well and the gathering was great fun. There were six spine frames, two Norges, and two Stelvios which came and went at the regularity of lightning strikes and about the same predictability. Several other riders joined us, at various times, with various bikes including a Triumph Tiger electric, four BMWs, a very fine V-Strom, and a vintage Ducati. At last count, no one had gone hungry, there were (too) many toasts to Jaap's recent birthday, no tickets (one "conversation"), and no mechanical or gravitational incidents (that involved our group). From the numbers, it looks like the (un)event was half riding and half being around one another and the bikes. Thanks to V11LeMans.com and TellicoMotorcycleOutfitters as well as the lodges at tellico for making it all possible! Ride well, and see you next time! docc in middle Tennessee, USA

Ooh, a Thruxton would be a welcome sight (and sound!). But, you'll have to bring your own wiring diagram!

Hey, Code, go to your profile and enter your location. You don't have to be very specific. Even a country will help other members know what sort of fitment your bike might have. Under your gas cap, there may be a little hole to vent the tank into a tube. I recall that is a steel tank and not like mine, but check for a vent tube and be sure it is not kinked or clogged.

So, you've got a bead on something now? Hot foot yourself over to Tellico Plains in Tennessee for The South'n Spine Raid Seven/ Twenty-Eleven to oggle and peruse all manner of Guzzi. Ride whatever you have or even drive.