docc

I've a fellow rider coming along from Middle Tennessee who's booked a room and would like to split costs. If anyone is interested, pm me and I'll get you in touch with him.

"Dis side" - ha aha haha ! That's some precious eye'talian'merican stuff!

Hi, Ajonen, Apologies, but I thought we could address your timing question in this thread without a separate one. There is a rubber plug on the right side of the bell housing used to see the top-dead-center marks for valve adjustment ("D" for right and "S" for left). I don't think the flywheel has any actual timing marks. You may be able to make a mark, visible with a timing light, that would tell you if the timing is jumping around indicating a bad cam chain tensioner. Otherwise, there are some simple things to try first: -set your valves to "world spec" (0.006" intake/ 0.008" exhaust) *apologies for quoting "world spec" in inches, but I see you are in SoCal/USA* -Increase your idle to 1200-1500 rpm. Some of the tachs read 300-500 rpm low and no well cammed Guzzi likes a low idle. -Balance your throttle linkage very carefully. The fluid devices (like Mercury sticks) are more effective than the electronic devices (like "TwinMax") -be certain your air filter is clean and up to service and there are no air or exhaust leaks. Certainly some of these motors have suffered from needing valve and guide service, but let's try the simple stuff first!

Hmm, that appears to be the airbox drain. The bright red wire is the spark plug wire and the two should not be allowed out on a date by themselves! The center hose leaking before indicates the tank was not venting normally. I wonder: what did the shop change? Did they actually change the tank? Or did they reroute or plug off the vent lines? Normally, that airbox drain only captures incoming moisture. In order for it to be dropping fuel, raw fuel must be kicking back into the airbox.

This is the first I've heard of one going down. Is it mechanical or a pressure switch?

Cleaning the ignition switch per KiwiRoy's advice has been a real help to my "hi-mile" Sport. But, what is a good point to "anchor" the harness, and can I get to it without any dis-assembly?

Gene, I promise I will not tell that you polished your pipes with kitchen sink cleaner. The promise is good til the third beer. . .

Now we're riding the ragged edge, taunting the storm Gods, and smuggling home brew! I love this ride!

That's a pretty nice looking clock! I'm on my third Veglia (earlier than yours) after 76,000 miles. I use my Garmin ZUMO as a back-up. Is that unit cable driven or electronic?

I don't think it's the bolts themselves or even the U-joints. After several remove/refit operations by several, um, technicians, I don't think the collars retain the fasteners well any more. The factory change interval on the shaft is worrisome, and I can only be sure I've got grease in the front U-joint a couple times, even after trying, over the last ten or eleven years. I've got to remove the rear drive for seals and I just can't trust the shaft at the typical speeds I might approach (90-100 mph). Sure, a new shaft is six or eight hundred dollars. New bikes are ten or twelve thousand and an MRI or CAT scan ranges 600- 5,000 USD. I'm looking forward to the confidence of having a fresh new drive shaft.

After 76,000 miles, I'm replacing my drive shaft. I know I've gotten grease in it twice for sure. Trouble is, it's been removed and replaced four or five times for other reasons and I don't trust the pinch bolts and collars anymore. Apparently, Teo Lamers in Holland has replacements for much less than $800 USD.

Steve, Has your original gone missing? (I'm afraid to take my tank bag off that the cover might blow away!)

Good replies on checking the bearings versus the brakes. It is really common for some of the pistons to begin sticking. Bleeding the brakes while freeing the pistons, all, will improve the braking and reduce any drag from sticking pistons along with the uneven movement of the pads against the rotors.

Good advice so far. With the Sport-i so similar to the V11 variants, I think we're in the right forum for this discussion. We might could all learn a thing or two from it. You say when the bike is off, the throttle snaps back closed? No chance the cable or linkage is rubbing (have a look)?

+1 on the basic tune up including servicing the air filter. If it's an "oiled foam" job, there's lots of concern about their effectiveness. I clean and oil mine religiously once a year (no, really, I burn incense and make incantations, face the bike east - all that). Even though the service interval for tuning is 6000 miles, I've found my Sport craves the attention and often has shown response to 4000 mile tune ups. Don't neglect battery and charging voltages. The ECU gets unhappy with suboptimal voltage. "Optimal" is 12.8 resting and 14.2+ charging.

I'd like some way to follow that trip. Are you going to keep posting on that same blog? Maybe you could keep us updated here on our "travel" forum.

G-meister, good advice from Raz on valve lash. Also, to check: melted 30 amp regulator fuse, and nefarious advice on modifying the temperature sensor (helped me!) Hey, go to your "profile" and show your location. It helps us all know better how to be of help.

Thanks, RainPrincess! For those too impaired to cut and paste, here's a direct click/link: Moto Guzzi Heritage/ 90 years

Guzzimeister's V11 has 80k miles on it . Anyone know of 100k miles on a V11? or more? Mines on 25k. Be interested to know how they are at big mileages. UJ's replaced? Gearboxes still working well? KB I thought Guzzimeister's 80,000 were kilometers? My 2000 sport is sitting on 76,202 miles (122,635 Austrian kilometers). While the shaft has not failed, it has become worrisome, so I'll be replacing it.

My sweet little Sport Lady loves her Angels. But the Bad Girl liked her Diablos as well. 9,000 miles? I'm lucky to get 4,000 on a rear - Angel or Diablo.

That is just so insanely beautiful!

On my 2000 Sport, the filter is clamped above the frame under the gas tank. For years, I've used a replacement for the Isuzu Trooper (any year). For a while, the WIX were welded units made in Isreal, but lately even the Made in USA filters are crimped. No problem with them, but I really liked those Isreali welded jobs! It's a little shorter than the $50+ Weber and might require little longer fuel line for the input. WIX 33310

Hey, I can write you a note. It might could work. Once. Perhaps. But it's worth a shot and you do look as of you're developing the epizootics. The only known cure is wind blast and vibration. Mike, glad you're gonna turn a wheel with us this year! I'm wearing my Tellico Motorcycles Outfitters shirt as I type this. And it's the one not speckled with gear oil. Thanks for your support and the great tank bag you put me into last year! Currently, I have a new shaft ordered from Teo Lamers (through my local Moto Guzzi dealer in Seattle, Washington) and will have all the seals in my rear drive renewed. I just can't go another year with well meaning Guzzisti pouring ale on my rear wheel to wash off the gear oil. There are much better uses for ale than that!

This is a Nero Corsa of 2004 vintage? How many miles? What's the oil type and change history? Were the valves out of spec more one side (the low side) than the other? Any history of engine work? All of these questions on the theory that it is better to have nurse than Doctor . . .

Since the side plates support the swingarm, this will be removed to remove the plates ("porkchops"). The manual recommends simply putting it back the way it was by first measuring how far the right and left mounting pins stand off the side plates. You can do this with a Vernier or dial caliper after the lock nut is removed, but before the pins are rotated. Some would say that using a careful alignment method upon reassembly (glass, tubes, chalk line, laser, tequila - whichever) will give you a better result than the factory may have taken time to do. After my laser results, I'm in this camp. Yet, if I had the sense to take the measurements beforehand, I would have simply put it back the same. With the swingarm off, it's a good time to service the shaft; check, clean, grease or even replace the swingarm bearings, and bleed the clutch. Great time to bleed the rear caliper as well while you can turn the nipple to the top. Upon reassembly, use caution starting the threading on the shaft's pinch bolts. They are easy to get askew. Torque these in steps back and forth. Consider blue LocTite. The foot shift lever could use a good clean, lube, and perhaps a little shim to get the most out of it. You might want to mark its location on the splines both fore and aft to get it back to the same spot. It's easy to get it off a bit where it may strike the porkchop on the down stroke and chip your new paint! You getting her all spruced up for the South'n Spine Raid?