docc

Looks like you have a very early V11 Sport: the exhaust flanges are finned and the frame side plates ("pork chops") are faded. It would be good to know that the gearbox recall has been performed (?) Welcome to the best owner-technical-community forum on the planet! Long term members can only testify that this forum is a crucial component of happy V11 ownership (along with a multi-meter, feeler gauge, and a place to recycle used fluids . . . By and large (whatever-the-hell-that-actually-means), we disagree here in a most gentlemanly fashion. All the ways to skin a cat, if you will. I wholeheartedly agree with GStallons on Linder to care for your injectors. Yet, why don't you begin with a really thorough tune-up, run a few tanks of fuel (without the ethanol if you have that option) through it (a little Techron is good, sure) and I'll bet she perks up nicely from some miles and all the attention (she is Italian, no?) It's rare to keep the side covers with pod filters since they bolt to the airbox. I use a K&N in the stock air box, but (agreeing with Gene again), it worries me. I clean and oil it once a year, but smarter people than I have cast aspersions on their filtering ability. Plus, I believe the engineering that went into the airbox volume is a benefit for the motor even though it doesn't "sound" as good. Lots of members here have good things to say about the PCIII and other processing interfaces to affect the way your V11 runs. Disagreeing here in the most respectful way, my V11 runs well with a meticulous tune-up repeated every 4000-6000 miles. before adding anything, be certain you have the base line system running and all of the sensors and components are reliable (TPS, temp sensors). The link above to the Tune-up thread is just one of several ways to get a good base line tune-up on your V11. With so few miles and so many years, just a little running-in, while systematically changing all the fluids and fettling the charging system, will give you some wonderful results! You're gonna love this bike! A "modern" Velocette! (If you consider electric starters "modern!")

Same seller, so good question for them - what does the seller say the difference is? (His pictures look identical) The ones original to my 2000 Sport were PRO5U (there is a piece of tape around the shank of the boot with this number). I assume the "5" is 5,000 ohms, but the "U" (or the "M") - don't know. The only other variable I could imagine is whether the cap is dimensioned to capture the plug end with or without the screw on ferule (tip). The spark plug tips stay on with the PRO5U.

When you changed the cover, did you swap all of its kit with it (pawl arm, springs, toothed,shift plates, and all)? I tell you, you've been unbelievably dedicated to working through this. You deserve a medal. Or, at the very least, the Best Sorted V11 on the planet!

Michael, I know there is another thread that covered all the detail on your odyssey; seemed like it took a year! Could you briefly summarize here what started it and how it turned out to be the pre-selector plate?

We'll let the whole H**da thing go this time, but your on thin ice . . .

". . . what Bloor has achieved seems astonishing. " No question. The modern Triumph line is amazing. The second generation Speed Triple is the only bike that has seriously threatened the Sport's place in the garage. And how is it they come on the scene in the early nineties and develop a better dealer network than Moto Guzzi has after nearly a century?

Hi, Ray! Hope you enjoy the forum and get some good input. Interesting comparison between the two bikes you're considering. I looked at, and rode, two different R1100S. One before I got my Sport and one while the Sport was in the shop for three or four months on a warranty issue. I've always admired the Bavarian boxers having lived south of Munich as a youth. I figured if I was going to get a boxer, it would be the S. That said, I really wanted to like the BMW. After riding the Guzzi, I found the Beemer really slow to turn in. Even changing lanes seemed to involve a radio call from the bridge to the helm to the engine room. Stable, sure, but short on the fun handling I had become accustomed to. No doubt, a big draw for me to motorcycles, and the Guzzi V11 in particular, is the character of the big twin. I thought the R1100S would have the character of a big twin, but: no, not so much. Riding it, I couldn't believe the motor was so understated. I left with the impression that the engineers had worked really hard on that. And achieved it - The raw, thrumming, booming, angry snarl just are not part of the BMW equation. More refined, quiet, seamless, isolated. So, from my direct comparison: if you're looking for that kind of stability with a nice, subdued power plant and a widely developed dealer network: it's the R1100S. On the other hand, for a more engaged experience (on the road and in the garage), the Guzzi will not disappoint. Also, the V11 range from the early Sports of 1999-2001, through the LeMans and the "late model" editions of 2003-2005 offer a substantial number of choices beyond the few color variations of the BMW. Check out his thread: Breakdown of Model Year Changes Looking forward to watching your odyssey! Best of luck!

I was confused about Kiwi Roy's claim that he found the final solution to the infamous bevel drives. Until I saw the image of the SpeedHut. Trouble is, I can't seem to post the image here, but it would be an excellent substitute for the trouble prone Veglia. How is the sending unit configured and mounted?

This is true. Also, external fuel pump which could be mounted in various locations.

Looking forward to more pics of this mod. Fantastic looking beam dispersion across the snow there!

I feel like I let it go too long this time: about 25,000 miles after my spring change/sideways-fork-rebuild in 2008. If I can suck it out from the bottom (where the action is) I think this might be an OK expedient. Otherwise, I don't think I've changed much just changing the oil around the spring. Maybe it'll mix itself around, but looks like better method to remove the bottom bolt and drain it all. At least that can still be done without releasing all the kit from the triple trees.

HA - no insult taken. I realized from the start that this was a bit of a bodge. I suppose I'll let it circulate for a while and pull the lower bolt (now that we all know about the SET SCREW that's not in any of the diagrams). I'm thinking I should probably change the fork oil every other front tire (about 14,000 miles). It still looks like it could be siphoned out of the actuating rod.

So, no clever shortcut . . . Traxxion Dynamics sells a Fork Bleed Tool that looks like it screws on to the cartridge activating rod. Seems like a guy could just fit a tube to it and suck the fluid out from the bottom. I couldn't get down past the spring base by inserting a tube from the top (about 2/3 of the way down).

What was it blocked with?

I can appreciate the proper method to change fork oil is to remove them. I have done it that way, but it's a PIA especially on the early Sport where the absolutely everything up front mounts to the triple clamps. So, I thought I would be creative while the front wheel is off for a tire and open the forks on the bike, siphon out the fluid, cycle the cartridge and give it some fresh juice. I knew I wouldn't get all the fluid out this way (or sediment in the very bottom), but I figured it's better than no fluid change at all and thought if I do it more frequently, it's going to add up. I was disappointed that the refill to 100mm air gap was only about 200ml. After doing the compression side I measured the recovery volume and see more like 300 ml . . . So, first, I'm afraid the oil level is going to drop as the forks cycle (?) And, second, instead of using a tube inserted in the upper housing (about a foot/ 310 mm), can fluid be siphoned out through the cartridge rod thereby getting nearer the very bottom of the reservoir?

. . . I'm only having problems with the bike running poorly when I sit at a stop light and I notice the AFR is over 15. It quickly gets running fine again once I get moving and get the AFR in the 13-14 range.

From the filler at the top to the nipples? Try compressed air - should be clear - both tracts.

The only things I inherited from my Scottish sires are a bristly attitude and a taste for liquids smacking of gearoil and gunpowder. Best of luck Bert. Maybe she just wants to stay home with you!

Isn't that a 2002 color? Could be a "transition model " aka leftover, which would raise concerns for bubbly driveline paint and fragile pawl spring. If the engine paint is smooth and tight, then it made the '03 cut. From his description, looks like you could be owner #4 on this one, too! Interesting windshiel spoiler.

I used the "Y" because it required less hose and provided simpler routing (it's tight under there!) Dangerous, on the thread sunscription, go to Muthaof all Forums and post on the Forum Update thread. Paul and Jaap are both working through the refinements and observations.

Did you ever find out where that washer goes? I'm also having similar speedo problems. I have the gearbox angle drive apart and in addition to the problem areas you mention I notice the inner dia. of the brass bushing is pretty well worn. It's actually oval shaped and about .015 in out of round. I'm sure the would have something to do with needle wobble. My bike has 43k miles. I think it would probably be worthwhile for me to make a new sleeve for the bushing. Turns out the Shnoor washer was not part of the speedometer drive at all. I believe it is missing from one of the four fasteners holding the calipers. Now, if I could just find where I stored it and return it to its rightful place. . . .

I "Y" mine together close to the tank. They are alittle fiddly to get on, but either one could spew fuel. The drain certainly catches any overflow from a fill-up.

Konnstantin, a Happy New Year to you as well! Surely, your Guzzi does not leak from all those gaskets? How many Km on the engine?

Yet, truly, there have been different reports of fill volume from empty. Some could be from when we decide to stop pumping as the filler neck extends into the tank a bit. Upright or side stand affects fill volume. Certainly, a lot of variation if you simply insert the nozzle rely on the automatic shut-off. The tank was billed as 5.8 US gallons, but I'm out of fuel at 5.1. The "tip-slosh" technique could get you a short piece further down the road (get off the sputtered-out Guzzi and tip it as deeply to the left as you are able and slosh some of the fuel out of the right side. The closed loop fuel injection will immediately begin pumping unused fuel back into the right side trap. My theory is use use as much throttle as possible in this circumstance to minimize the number of strenuous "tip-slosh" sessions on my way to redemption.