docc

I wish I had the answer for you. I do recall that Callison had combined parts of both models, but not sure about the rear subframe. As an aside, what metal is the subframe made from? Mine has a cracked bracket and I'm told welding is tricky if it's chrome moly.

As a matter of interest, do you know what amount of oil you had in there when you did that? Was it up at max on the stick? KB Oil level was pretty high up on the stick, not absolute max, but above half of the range. I would call that "low." At the mark, or better: just above. It's that or go for Pete's P/roper Plate. Or both. Lot's of discussion about oil, but - make no mistake - oil is good and lots of oil is best.

+1 ! (. . . or any mechanic, for that matter . . . )

Very interested to see this outcome. The angle drives (as well as the later "bent tube") allow for the tight clearance below the throttle linkage. Good luck on this, Roy!

PM to you. Sorry for the delay. You should get this bike. I hope you have a museum!

AAAArrggh! Always this for the cap: (JB Weld or other epoxy)

What part of the world is it in and do you think it has had the gearbox recall repair done? Color? Any factory accessories (exhaust, Stucchi fairing, Tekno panniers)?

Michael, great news you did not have to change the box itself! Enjoy this riding season: just in time!

There's a plan?

Easy on the throttle and long, steady road speeds would likely give you 40-42 mpUSg. Start rowing the box, and having your way with her and 34-37 is more likely. Colder temps could drop it 2-3. As mentioned, this is a more aggressive combination of cam, valves, flow characteristics, and riding style. Probably not worth an extensive refit to get a few more mpg. Crank it, rip it, and enjoy it! (She'll love you for it!) That said, a meticulous tune-up performed every 4000 to 6000 miles will optimize the factory settings and likely give you around +3 mpg. "Ain't she sweet?" (Walt Kowalski [Clint Eastwood], Gran Torino)

Ah, makes sense. And the "V" simply a reference to the motor I would suppose. I'll pass this on. I always come back from these events looking for n Eldorado or a Cali Vintage . . .

I had thought the late model (frame mounted) bikinis were were more Givi than Stucchi . . .

I'm guessing they have been looking for "openings and invitations" . . .

It is the vacuum supply to your crank case ventilation. On a big twin, the crankcase ventilation should be intact. The spine frame uses the spine frame, itself, and the intake vacuum to evacuate crankcase pressure: A dedicated rubber hose evacuates the vent from the top rear of the crank case to the front underside of the spine frame (behind the head tube), a "banjo" bolt in front of the tank (on top of the spine behind the headtube) provides vacuum from the airbox, and the fluid portion drains down through the box spine and a braided line back into the back bottom of the sump.

At Barber's Vintage Festival this weekend, a friend asked the meaning of the letters "EV." I've looked through my library of Guzzi authors and searched online, but no answer. So, I've come to the fountain head. . .

Glad to hear some of you are going to be there. It has always been a great event. This year, riding down on my Honda GB500 Tourist Trophy. Trying to figure out how to make do with no GPS, no Tekno panniers, and 1/3 the horsepower. Should be lovely!

A theory not very far off I think. As mine is still good I say the advantages to be be gained are less than the effort for building one Hubert As always, Hubert, well thought. Still if I had to repair mine, I might go home-built. I wonder, also, if sealed bearing could be pressed in to replace the rubber inserts. I do like the look of the cast rod.

It's been done quite often, with good results, means it works as the OEM part works. I wonder if it would not work rather better as the Heim centers would allow rotation while the factory unit resists the suspension travel through torsion on the rubber. Seems it would be an improvement to let the hydraulics do the damping. Just a theory, mind you . . .

Very observant on the cap. Looking more closely, the fasteners aren't screwed in and three are missing. Makes one wonder why it has been off. While the tank apparently does not have petcock or regulator fitted, the Moto Guzzi carbon fiber pad is a nice item. I think I paid like $40US for mine. Of course, I put mine on to hide a nasty gouge . . . (Still, looks like a really good offer for the money)

Ya'll better snap up that air box - chicks dig 'em . . .

Thanks Docc, I will keep an eye on that fuse. I would do an electrical health check now but past experience has taught me that I should wait for further issues before I dive into things that are largely a mystery to me. Let sleeping demons lie is my motto. I used to have an old Bonneville that regularly conked out with electrical problems and, well lets just say that shouting at a stationary machine at the side of the road is not a habit I want to return to. Cheers Perhaps then you could change the 30 amp fuse with every valve adjustment/ plug change while it's only melting and has not burned off its contacts just yet. That certainly is a trouble spot in the wiring harness.

Yeah, there is not much pad material there. And it is compounded by where the brake rides down in the spray. Doubly important to keep the pistons moving freely. Good advice on everyone's part here! Removing the old fluid from the reservoir first will keep it from overflowing when you retract the pistons. Again, I would work them in and out several times using a brake solvent to get them moving freely. You will find your next pads will last longer! Good question and some excellent input. (Rear brake is one of the Achilles' heels of the V11 series)

The intermittent arc from a broken connection throws some terrific voltage spikes into the electrical system. Sounds like your bulb socket contacts were also flinky. Very common issue - the melting/ broken/ charred 30 amp fuse: 30 amp fuse melting Nasty Hiccup/ MAXI Fuse

So, I see that *size* does matter after all . . .

Three thoughts: 1) The 1157 can be pressed in 180 degrees off lighting both filaments. 2) The flat contact hoops in the socket can flatten out and cause contact issues. I've pulled mine aft with a dental probe to gather more contact with the bulb base. (I had to be pretty aggressive with it to make it last). 3) Other members have reported a trapped wire under the seat/tail cowl which shorts the tail lamp circuit - worth a look! I have some other thoughts, but they'll have to post to some other forum . . .