docc

So, did you replace parts or just bend the old ones back in line? I don't know the answer to Jihem's question. I suppose the trailer is the safe bet . . .

When you're finished, a simple "zip-tie" through the pivot pins will keep them from jumping out (taking the lever along) at the most inopportune time.

. . . [since, after all, getting the torque right is about getting it tight enough to not react to slight wobblies generated by the wheel but loose enough you can still move it easily... ] Ah, the Goldilocks Torque Standard - juuust right!

If the cam chain or tensioner have worn greatly, could this be seen watching the timing mark with a timing light (strobe)? If the mark bounces around very much, the chain/tensioner should be replaced ? Otherwise, my Sport is just over the 120,000 kM/75,000 mile mark (I am in a race with Hubert!!) and I am wondering when to do a tear down for the heads and this chain. Maybe 150,000 kM? Maybe wait til the bad noises start??

No chance it could be a "whistling" sound as might happen if the air boots cracked, came loose, or the vacuum taps were leaking?

Hi, Tom, I believe the rear drives are completely different on your two Guzzis. I wondered if maybe the washer was original to the 1100 series, but not needed for some reason on the V11.

Sounds like a winter project to me. Lot's of little stuff stuffed in that tail section over the rear subframe. Might should add this inspection to "What to do while the wheels are off.":luigi:

That's actual subframe tab for attaching the bracket for the passenger footpeg and the exhaust canister. The carrier for the TEKNO pannier bolts on here also. I believe I have seen reports of its actual wire frame coming apart at welds, but never heard of this one. The Sport just turned 75,000 miles (120,000 kM) and I've used the bags since the beginning. (I never heard that TEKNO is made by Hepko and Becker. Is that so?) I'm riding to Barber's Vintage Festival in ten days, but that's only 220 miles and a much more leisurely pace than this ride I've just returned from, so I think I'll run my "paddock weld" a little longer before deciding on a permanent fix. I'll just have to price the thing new. Probably should drink single malt first!

The night before I took off on a pretty aggressive 1200 mile weekend sport-tour, I found the left bag mount loose. On closer inspection I found the mounting tab and the rear sub frame had come from together. Home now and the "paddock weld" has held, but now to figure out a more proper fix.

You are certain this smoke is oil and not unburnt fuel (which is very common). Are there other signs of oil consumption ( plug condition, dropping oil level)? Otherwise, I would perform a complete tune up including valve adjustment, TPS setting, and throttle body balance and look for a change.

Docc, could you get this washer on your bike in the meantime? How did it fit? Hubert Looks like it belongs. Now there is a 1,5 mm washer where there was a 1,5 mm space. I really do hope it seals that needle cage a little better.

It is M 25 x 40, 1.5 mm thick ( 0.060") and the steel doesn't look anything special. Apparently "tipo" is not where the part is made. Not sure what that means "tipo: NOR." Perhaps "normale" as in "nothing special/ just a washer." I've heard a lot of guys say they don't have them, and don't remember anyone saying they do. It's in the diagrams, but maybe there is some reason not to fit it?.

I'm not the Scura clutch expert. But, I do remember some issues with the single plate clutch and its flywheel. Serious enough not to ignore the early warning signs. Sure, could be spring/ boss size stuff, but let's look further into the clutch possibilities. As we say here in the South, "don' wantcha gittin kilt . . ." Even if it means a clutch job . . .

Ouch! What we call here: "frost heave." And right in the sweet spot of a beautiful curve! Dangerous women these curves!

So, I remember a thread on there being a washer between the right side of the rear drive (next to the nefarious needle cage) and the right swingarm. I've never had one, or it fell off in the floor at some early service. So, I thought I would put one in and ordered the bad boy up (GU37359005); delivered as "Rosetta" at a whopping 13.18 USD. So, I'm glad to have it and I'll get it installed as there is a little space there otherwise and I'd like to think it will protect the flimsy needle cage. I guess if I knew the actual dimensions, I could have bought one locally for 75 cents. Maybe the MG part has a Rockwell hardness of 60? Still, I am devoted to the upkeep of this bike and the support of the remaining dealers. Bless them, indeed. I wonder, though, at one of the entries on the factory packing slip: "tipo: NOR" Do I have have a real and genuine Norwegian washer? Wow, then, it's worth the thirteen bucks to keep those guys in Vodka. Jeez, a thirteen dollar washer - what an idiot!

Do Scuras really have *clutch* issues? Could that be "it?"

Frozen what? It was over 90 degrees (35C) here today, but I can smell winter in the air. (beware of the *hooters* link!)

I smell winter on the air . .

The rear drive vent is in top of the rear drive - easy to see. the gear box vent is between the output shaft and the clutch slave cylinder - not easy to see. The rear wheel spindle torques to 120 NM (from the "drive side") I don't see how you have "unscrewed" the brake block without taking out the bolt? The block should just slide off.

Those guys up in Scandinavia know how to get a ride or two in after the first snow:

Simplest thing could be your shift lever is striking the sideplate ("pork chop") on the up shift. Second simplest is to be certain your clutch action is complete: fresh fluid and no excessive play at the lever (indicating a broken master cylinder spring). Never heard of realigning the wheel after removal. Well, ok, after removal of the swingarm, sure.

Welcome back! Beautiful black LeMans! (What year?)

No, I really believe I overfilled the drive and that damaged the seals. A couple seasoned Guzzi riders I know keep their level about an ounce (30 ml) low to ease the pressure. I ran RLSPH for about 15000 miles before the trouble started. I feel certain that replacing the inner seal (already did the outer) is the real solution and I suspect the leak will eventually return even with the "normal" G-5. Shoot, it may come back when I add the moly. I think I'll wait til after the next couple out of state rides to test that theory!

For the fuel light, look at the wires from the sensor on the lower side of the tank on left. They do commonly break there. The bulbs will darken over time as the metal from the filament "plates" the inside of the glass. Much brighter usually on replacement!

Right, then: 1) You'll be amazed the response she has to a proper tune-up (valve adjustment, TPS, throttle body synch. Don't worry about ECU mods until you have a fine tune on her. 2) RedLine Shockproof Lightweight "blue" has done very well in my gearboxes. Cleaning, shimming and lubricating the foot shift mechanism (external) is also good medicine. It's rare that shift spring failure would visit your '01. Make sure you have flushed the clutch fluid. Look at this FAQ: Maintenance Checklist while the wheels are off 3)I do like my Pirellis. The Angels look like they'll run out the typical Diablo miles, but probably no more. And they still feel great in the last of their days . . .