docc

Easy on the throttle and long, steady road speeds would likely give you 40-42 mpUSg. Start rowing the box, and having your way with her and 34-37 is more likely. Colder temps could drop it 2-3. As mentioned, this is a more aggressive combination of cam, valves, flow characteristics, and riding style. Probably not worth an extensive refit to get a few more mpg. Crank it, rip it, and enjoy it! (She'll love you for it!) That said, a meticulous tune-up performed every 4000 to 6000 miles will optimize the factory settings and likely give you around +3 mpg. "Ain't she sweet?" (Walt Kowalski [Clint Eastwood], Gran Torino)

Ah, makes sense. And the "V" simply a reference to the motor I would suppose. I'll pass this on. I always come back from these events looking for n Eldorado or a Cali Vintage . . .

I had thought the late model (frame mounted) bikinis were were more Givi than Stucchi . . .

I'm guessing they have been looking for "openings and invitations" . . .

It is the vacuum supply to your crank case ventilation. On a big twin, the crankcase ventilation should be intact. The spine frame uses the spine frame, itself, and the intake vacuum to evacuate crankcase pressure: A dedicated rubber hose evacuates the vent from the top rear of the crank case to the front underside of the spine frame (behind the head tube), a "banjo" bolt in front of the tank (on top of the spine behind the headtube) provides vacuum from the airbox, and the fluid portion drains down through the box spine and a braided line back into the back bottom of the sump.

At Barber's Vintage Festival this weekend, a friend asked the meaning of the letters "EV." I've looked through my library of Guzzi authors and searched online, but no answer. So, I've come to the fountain head. . .

Glad to hear some of you are going to be there. It has always been a great event. This year, riding down on my Honda GB500 Tourist Trophy. Trying to figure out how to make do with no GPS, no Tekno panniers, and 1/3 the horsepower. Should be lovely!

A theory not very far off I think. As mine is still good I say the advantages to be be gained are less than the effort for building one Hubert As always, Hubert, well thought. Still if I had to repair mine, I might go home-built. I wonder, also, if sealed bearing could be pressed in to replace the rubber inserts. I do like the look of the cast rod.

It's been done quite often, with good results, means it works as the OEM part works. I wonder if it would not work rather better as the Heim centers would allow rotation while the factory unit resists the suspension travel through torsion on the rubber. Seems it would be an improvement to let the hydraulics do the damping. Just a theory, mind you . . .

Very observant on the cap. Looking more closely, the fasteners aren't screwed in and three are missing. Makes one wonder why it has been off. While the tank apparently does not have petcock or regulator fitted, the Moto Guzzi carbon fiber pad is a nice item. I think I paid like $40US for mine. Of course, I put mine on to hide a nasty gouge . . . (Still, looks like a really good offer for the money)

Ya'll better snap up that air box - chicks dig 'em . . .

Thanks Docc, I will keep an eye on that fuse. I would do an electrical health check now but past experience has taught me that I should wait for further issues before I dive into things that are largely a mystery to me. Let sleeping demons lie is my motto. I used to have an old Bonneville that regularly conked out with electrical problems and, well lets just say that shouting at a stationary machine at the side of the road is not a habit I want to return to. Cheers Perhaps then you could change the 30 amp fuse with every valve adjustment/ plug change while it's only melting and has not burned off its contacts just yet. That certainly is a trouble spot in the wiring harness.

Yeah, there is not much pad material there. And it is compounded by where the brake rides down in the spray. Doubly important to keep the pistons moving freely. Good advice on everyone's part here! Removing the old fluid from the reservoir first will keep it from overflowing when you retract the pistons. Again, I would work them in and out several times using a brake solvent to get them moving freely. You will find your next pads will last longer! Good question and some excellent input. (Rear brake is one of the Achilles' heels of the V11 series)

The intermittent arc from a broken connection throws some terrific voltage spikes into the electrical system. Sounds like your bulb socket contacts were also flinky. Very common issue - the melting/ broken/ charred 30 amp fuse: 30 amp fuse melting Nasty Hiccup/ MAXI Fuse

So, I see that *size* does matter after all . . .

Three thoughts: 1) The 1157 can be pressed in 180 degrees off lighting both filaments. 2) The flat contact hoops in the socket can flatten out and cause contact issues. I've pulled mine aft with a dental probe to gather more contact with the bulb base. (I had to be pretty aggressive with it to make it last). 3) Other members have reported a trapped wire under the seat/tail cowl which shorts the tail lamp circuit - worth a look! I have some other thoughts, but they'll have to post to some other forum . . .

OK, since you've asked this same simple question four times, giving us all the latitude to espouse our various opinions, the answer is "yes": two allen bolts to remove the caliper from the bracket.

I would think it better, then, to remove the black plastic cap, drive the retaining pin out and pull out the pads. Push the pistons back in to the caliper by prying, one then the other, to make room for the new pads. Using the brake parts cleaner is still good (just cover the wheel and such from the run off). If you're just doing the pads, use the plastic cover.

True that the pads can be replaced without removing the caliper by accessing through the black plastic cover. Yet, this is a good time to clean the contact block and pivot pin. Best to remove the entire bracket along with the wheel for best results. Also good to work both pistons in and out using a brake parts cleaner (protecting the wheel paint and your lungs and hands). You are likely to find that one piston moves far more easily than the other and must be blocked/clamped to get the other moving as well. It's a fiddly operation that takes a bit of time and chemical clean-up, but the brake action will be decidedly improved afterward! (Good medicine for the front pistons as well . . .) I suppose it must be said that this is a good time to bleed the fluid and turning the caliper over to put the bleeder on top will give the best result. Finally, check that the foot pedal has a bit of "play" to the master cylinder engagement. Torque well the pivot pin. Later V11 have a retaining clip inboard. One must assume that the pin can walk out without proper care. At the risk of posting really long answer to a comparatively short question, check out this FAQ: Maintenance Checklist (while the wheels are off)

Did you ever find out where that washer goes? I'm also having similar speedo problems. I have the gearbox angle drive apart and in addition to the problem areas you mention I notice the inner dia. of the brass bushing is pretty well worn. It's actually oval shaped and about .015 in out of round. I'm sure the would have something to do with needle wobble. My bike has 43k miles. I think it would probably be worthwhile for me to make a new sleeve for the bushing. Turns out, the washer fits nicely in a small container on the shelf labeled, "Washers and other parts left over from reassembly."

Thx Tom, Moto intl. came thru. seemed to be the only one in the states. Have a Teo Lamers adapter if anyone wants ??????????? So, all you got from them is the screw on part that presses into the bevel drive? Fer-cryin'-out-loud! That's the only part that doesn't go bad! I don't understand what your saying. Didn't he get the whole angle drive for $90?? In post #3, he describes it as missing the "upper portion." And in post#5 refers to it as the "adapter." I can only assume it (the Teo Lamers part) is just the insert that presses into the bevel drive and has a threaded collar to fasten down onto the gearbox. Sounds to me like it is the complete assembly that cost Tom M $90. Not sure what DSRDAVE might have paid Teo Lamers for the questionable part.

On early Sports, the tank does tend to sit down hard at the rear and ride in the side covers chafing and spreading the tank. Fitting a stack of fender washers under the rear tank mount can lift enough to relieve this pressure and stop the spread. Not likely that will address the damage already done.

Thx Tom, Moto intl. came thru. seemed to be the only one in the states. Have a Teo Lamers adapter if anyone wants ??????????? So, all you got from them is the screw on part that presses into the bevel drive? Fer-cryin'-out-loud! That's the only part that doesn't go bad!

I would gladly pony up the ten bucks just to find out what they're doing with them . . .

Today, I saw the following in 6th gear using ZUMO GPS: 4,000 rpm: 67 mph 5,000 rpm: 83 mph Didn't try for 6,000 as I was in a 55 mph zone with traffic. Also, the Sport has a 160 profile rear tire.