docc

500 miles after the last good rear drive flush/ refill with normal G-5 and no perceptible leak, seep or drip. Thanks for the great advice! Much better than tearing down the rear drive. Or trying to figure out what kind of saw dust to use!

Not likely gear oil will make its way out the speedometer drive as long as the connection to the gearbox is tight. That is a common point to gather a gooey mess off the bottom of the throttle body. Is it wet up there as well?

Brass mount pressed in (with a little JBWeld) and showing the epoxy over the pressed metal disc.

And then, in my less than careful (read:frustrated ) disassembly, I find this Schnoor washer and my parts diagrams do not show the bevel drives. Where does it go?? EDIT/ January 07, 2013 - No doubt, the Schnoor washer is one of four from the caliper mounting bolts which showed up missing today upon disassembly for a fresh tire. Sloppy work on my part and a marathon search to find this post and edit. Now . . . where did I put that washer?

My new speedo with only 1700 miles has been wagging ever more in spite of reworking the lower drive and the cable lube. The moly lube was a mistake as now any seepage is gooey black. After about 100 miles today the speedo quit. Again. A close inspection reveals the brass insert for mounting the lower drive had walked out. The gears inside appear good. I'll use the Lubriplate this time (leftover from Lionel trains and the M14) and some adhesive to bond the brass plug into the drive. For reference, the brass recesses into the drive and no brass should be visible viewed perpendicularly:

While you have the wheel off, check out the FAQ Maintenance Checklist . It's especially good to get all eight brake pistons moving evenly again!

I don't recall any Arrow canisters for the V11, but the badge would have been a nice clean solution for the "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" plates riveted to the upgrade mufflers. Marketed as "competition only" it was quite a surprise to take delivery of these parts with that horrible plate attached! After a close look at the photos, I agree that these are likely the "competition " pieces sold by Moto Guzzi, apparently made by Mistral. Unusual tail piece and instrument mounting for a 2000 . . .

The upper bevel drive is mounted by a plate under two screws. It is worth tightening the screws. I'm really not sure how hard they are to reach on a lemans. The lower bevel drive has a fitting pressed into it, then threaded down onto the gearbox. The fitting tends to walk out of the drive and can be easily pressed back together. Maybe a little JBWeld would be judicious! The pressed in metal disc can dislodge spitting out the worm gear. Be certain the disc is pressed in and apply epoxy. I've tried a couple and, again, JBWeld seems to lock the little plate well in place. The worm gear inside the bevel drive is prone to developing chips and broken teeth. I've robbed a few from old bevels, but otherwise it will be time for a replacement. Up to $90 + USD now! Someone please re-manufacture this part!! (You can get the upper bevel for less and press the mounting fitting into it.) The speedo itself is full of flinky little plastic gears like you would find in a child's toy.

I asked Rich to post his question back here in Tech Topics. I looked at the photos and couldn't say that the cans looked like Mistrals. They seem a little slender and rather low slung, but I couldn't get a good look at the end caps.

Now that you've ridden a few hundred more kilos since you replaced the Redline in your rear drive does it still drip? Interesting you should ask! Preparing to leave on this upcoming Sports-Tour, these have been the two most plaguing issues. After the flush and refill with "normal" GL-5 the rear drive certainly no longer leaks, doesn't *drip*, and I rather hesitate to say doesn't even splatter or even haze. Now the conundrum is whether to add back little moly . . .

200 kM today and no leak! So far, the JB Weld and new O-ring have made good seals.

Uh oh, my stones are just not that cold . . .

The RTV didn't stick at all. On to JB Weld now. Will try a ride tomorrow and see. After stripping the heads on both the fasteners, and doubling my vocabulary, the price of admission is looking more reasonable . . . I fear I may have contributed to this by using the CI-4 5W-40 oil "designed for 15W-40 applications"); Back to 20W-50SG now.

Good advice from Buzzard! And now I know what is meant by "luftkammer" (air chamber)! I use a 100mm air chamber to good effect. Maybe this change I'll try 110. Fork oil viscosity varies wildly even within the same SAE "weight." A better measure is CentiStokes at a given temperature (usually hot, say 40C). Here is a great technical site to look at various brands: Peter Verdone Designs . I favor a 5wt in the lightest of the range (15 cSt). I've thought of using an even lighter oil in the rebound side, but just haven't gotten it together to try that yet. ATF is also highly detergent and should give your forks a loverly scrub out after some few miles. Even more better is be certain you have the right springs (probably stiffer than stock) on reassembly.

It's been a while, but I recall driving mine out with a long punch flattened on one side. There is not much to get a bite on, but once it starts moving you can walk it out. Hopefully, someone will chime in that has either done one more recently or has a better remembery. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you've had your Sport 9 years and have only now made your first post! Welcome to the slippery slope and watch out for the Guzzichondria!

I don't think I've seen an aluminum tank on a spine frame. Have you looked at Ghezzi-Brian?

Interesting. Yet, dealers for those cars are the only ones more rare than Moto Guzzi here in the states. Maybe "online." Thanks for the details. I'm warming up my tube of RTV silicone as we speak . . .

The seal doesn't appear to be leaking on this one. The oil looks to be pushing through the sensor itself. A new one is 167USD, or a couple hundred bucks / a-buck-euro-fifty. Too many lire to count. Crazy. I'll have to try and have my way with it using my arsenal of sealants and adhesives. 150 Euro . . . I just can't. Please say a little prayer for my RTV silicone.

Good point as usual, Hubert! I'll get a call in to my World Famous Parts Man.

So, all this time I've followed the advice of the Old Timers on valve adjustment: "Make sure she's STONE COLD!" In the interest of science and precision, I've developed a repeatable method to ensure the proper degree of coldness.

Having discovered the whole left side of the engine oily and dirty, I've been chasing a leak which has led me to the phase/revolution sensor. After a new O-ring and such, it looks like the oil is coming through the sensor. Could it be so? Can this be sealed?

That's true for a wet cell battery, but the AGM battery from Hawker (like the original "Spark") is 100% at 12.84.

So, worse even. How to solder a plastic can? As if a "tin can" didn't sound cheap enough!

What a fantastic looking motorcycle! All the details will come together! Tom, kindly show your general location in your "profile", it is most helpful for others responding. Otherwise, you could be given Fahrenheit instructions...

The first 200 miles after the oil change there was a drip or two. Now, in the second two hundred miles, it only looks splattery, kind of dirty, a little wettish. But no drip. Maybe better enough to observe it for a another couple hundred miles. I have been such a RedLine fan. This is a bit of a disappointment.